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blatcho wrote:Should i be able to buy the inner seal separately or will toyota only sell it as a full wheel bearing kit?

yes.. if not go to an auto parts store.. its only a standard oil seal.. get a new o-ring while your there..

ok .. so heres how I changed my rear wheel bearings on my 08 SR hilux 4wd.... all up it took about 3 hrs,but the the last one only took an hour from go to wow..
tools you need are:a good quality 10mm spanner(brake line),14mm spanner(brake plate bolts),screw driver,vise grips,big hammer,grease,long nose pliers...
1. work on flat ground lock in lowrange 1st gear dont put handbrake on.
2.jack one side at a time and support with jack stand.(try and raise it high enough so you dont loose your diff fluid)
3. remove wheel,remove wheel drum.. (Fit M8 screw to jacking holes to assist removing drums)
4. at the top of the brake assembly on the back of the brake plate undo the brake line,and block off..
5.unbolt 2x 10mm hex bolts for handbrake cable mount,unclip hand brake cable from shoe arm and feed outand remove from brake assemble.
6.unbolt 4x 14mm bolts around the diff housing ,they are reasonably tight so use a good spanner give them a crack with a deadblow hammer or ratchet and socket....
7. ok pull the brake/axel assembly towards you it will/should just pull out quite easily (if not bolt the drum on back to front and use at a slide hammer)
you should have this in your hand..

8.Remove the circlip and put to the side(dont loose this).. Now you can either use a press and press this out or do it the old fashion way and find a nice bit of hardwood or an alloy plate.. and hold the outer edge of the brake plate knock the spline of the axel on the wood or ally plate..like so

it should only take 4-5 good hits and the retainer spacer will drop down first,then the bearing assembly will slide down,hold on to the hole lot and take it to the bench.. Take note of the assembly as you need it to go back in this order..

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9.clean up the bearing journals and check the spline for uneven wear.
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10.tap out the old inner seal from the brake plate ,clean up as above...
11. i didnt take pics of the assembly of the bearing but next you fit the new brake plate seal from the front wipe grease on the sealing lip and journal and then push the new bearing into the brake plate assembly slide it over the axle and then knock the inner of the bearing down all the way home with a long peice of tube(or in a press),then knock down the spacer ring home and fit the circlip in its groove..

12. ok that part is finished ,move back over to the axle housing and pry out the old oil seal and remove the old face sealing o-ring..


13.clean it up and tap in square(and this was not quite finished and in square at the time of the pic) the new oil seal. and with a smear of grease fit the face o-ring..( note the heat mark from the old bearings)

14. ok with a smear of grease on the sealing face and seals slide the axle back in line up the bolts and then the spline and it will pop back in quite easily...
15.Bolt the 4 backing plate bolts up in diagonals evenly and lock them up.
16.refit brake line to wheel cylinder
17.refit handbrake cable.. have fun with that...
18.back off shoes slightly to get the drum back on..
19. You will need to bleed your brakes,and not abad idea to bleed the proportioning valve as well as there will be air in the system,how ever you like to do it( I did the one man system this morning) and refit your wheels..
20. And your done,take it for a test drive....
Like I said all up was about 3 hrs with me mucking around abit along the way and had a bite to eat.
Its a nice cruisey job you could do on a saturday morning no sweat.... hope this helped

You da man! Thanks for the write up.

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That is awesome, well done!

Could you explain what you mean by the journal?

Great write up mate
Thanks for taking the time and effort

Old thread but how much and where are you giys buying rear bearing kits from? Found an aussie mob on ebay that have a kit to do both sides for about $100. Sound too cheap??

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I've found the seals in the cheaper kits to be chinese garbage. Last cheap kit I bought was for my old 75 series troopy. The parts were terrain tamer and they didn't last long.

I'd stick with genuine given its not the most fun job to do a wheel bearing.

I think the best I can find is about $200 a side on partsouq.

So I did my wheel bearings today, well started them anyways. Mine were rusted into the journals I used my press and they came out with a bang, even after i cut the retainer ring out. I seem to have bent my drum housing somewhat too, looks like i might have to weld up a jig so i can press it back into shape a bit.

What a nightmare! Mine definitely didn't come out like SRD4Ds did…

I dont think the bloke I bought this off did any maintenance whatsoever!

Had some drama yesterday, done a wheel bearing 300km from home towing a 1.5T van. With really no choice but to push on slowly (no roadside cover) I made it all but 15km from home when the bearing collapsed completely. By the time I could pull over safely, there was oil pouring out of the wheel and smoke everywhere.

My question is, how many parts is this likely to of damaged? ABS sensor/axle/brakes etc. We are planning to fix this at home, following SRD4D's guide.

Thanks

Sorry to hear that Gracey, it depends... sometimes you might only need the bearings and seals, other times you may be better off with a new housing and axle... but you will only know once you pull it all apart.

hiluxxury wrote:Sorry to hear that Gracey, it depends... sometimes you might only need the bearings and seals, other times you may be better off with a new housing and axle... but you will only know once you pull it all apart.

Yeah mate, pulled it apart last night. Everything seems intact aside from the destroyed bearing. Ordered the bearing replacement kit off Repco, will have a go at replacing it over the weekend.

Do you know how firmly the ABS wheel is pressed to the axle? Thats the only part we need to make sure we dont damage getting off.

It's a bitch to do without the tools. Make sure ya have a proper pressing tool before you start. And make sure ya put the abs ring and retainer back in the rite spot or the retainer won't engage with the seal!

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TOYZX wrote:It's a bitch to do without the tools. Make sure ya have a proper pressing tool before you start. And make sure ya put the abs ring and retainer back in the rite spot or the retainer won't engage with the seal!

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X2 take pics of the bearing and abs ring before you press them off