NewHilux.net

Additives that are added via the fuel tank are a real mixed bag, as olcoolone said alot of them are solvent based and are NOT good for your engine. However, if you use a good quality non-solvent based product - check out Forte - then these have been developed specifically to avoid damaging CRD engines. Here in the UK Peugeot stated that no Additives should be used on their CRD engines, because they did not know what people would use, but several Peugeot owned garages recommend Forte, as they know it is non-damaging to CRD engines.
Similiarly BMW are the same.

Chris

Hi ,
I know this is an old thread but have people's thoughts remained the same and
most seem to not like the idea of additives in the Diesel fuel tanks.

I have a December 2010 build Diesel and was just looking at it on the shelf of the servo after
I fill the tank . I've only got 43,000 Klm on clock.
Before I buy a bottle to add in tank any updates on the benifits or not.

Thanks for any input.
Regards tony

This is a old thread, but anyway someone might read it.

I am a metallurgical engineer, with a 5 years experience in the oil and gas extraction industry, I will keep it simple. Diesel itself is a solvent, all non polar substances are solvents for other non polar substance, unless complex alkalyenes and alkalynes, that is why fuel additives diffuse into your diesel tank otherwise you would cop a gut full of additive at the end or start of every tank. as diesel is a non polar solvent it will remove/dissolve yes dissolve any oil or carbon containment that it comes contact to in your fuel line, common rail and injectors. So diesel fuel itself will remove oil residence in its path. There is no reason to think actual reputable correct fuel additive/injector cleaner could do any damage, As all non-polar will dissolve non-polar, the diesel will break the additive in to is smallest hydrocarbon/alkayanes form, so the particle size is no bigger than any diesel which is a medium sized hydrocarbon c16h34, which would be larger than any break ups of fuel additive particles. In your cylinder itself, diesel and all of its diffused fuel additive particles with combust so nothing there.

In my beloved hilux i use 50mls of liqui-moly diesel boost every tank. i have not had any issues once, and it drives great with it. This additive adds a greater concentration of un-cracked/un refined cetane and has a carbon composition of about 16-18, which has lower boiling point than regular diesel which has been cracked to increase the boiling point, to stop pre combustion and so on, this pure cetane helps with a complete burn in combustion stage, overall giving many benefits, plus it has some other chemicals which have been approved for CRD engines.

I would love an actual, diesel mechanic, or petromechanical engineer, to bring some more actaul and factual infomation, not just it hurts your car dont use it.

Look forward to it. Mind my spelling.

Gentlemen, I too use liqui moly diesel clean and boost religiously. As previously stated, it is a cetane booster and also ADDS lubrication to the fuel system, I was also on the fence regarding this subject, but called liqui moly HQ for some clarification, the rep assured me it's safe for CRD and has been used widely in Europe for the past 10 years on CRD systems with absolutely no hiccups. I even asked for this in writing and the manager sent through a PDF straight away stating the safety of the additive. They are an extremely reputable company, I trust them and have nothing but praise for this particular product.

50,000km and going strong, used since day one.

Matt

Nice, good work brother

i was looking on supercheap tonight at some of the additives and got me curious if i should give the ol girl a dose.

would love the opinion of boxhead on this one

I am old school on this.
Look at the ingredients of the additive. Most say 90 to 95 percent hydrocarbon

Now hydrocarbon is burniable oil.

Petrol for example is a hydrocarbon.

So say 5 percent is some other stuff they won't tell you.
Most likely algie killer or something ?


So here is where I am old School.

Mineral 2 stroke oil is straight hydrocarbon.

So every tank in the hilux goes 370 m l of oil since new

710 m l. In the prado since new

28 bucks for 5 l at supercheap

You would be amassed the noise difference. And you are also lubricating everything as well. That's got to be good.

There are heaps of topics on here about the 2 stroke in your fuel.

I like it.

And shitloads cheaper then the 300m l fuel additive.

And I see this thread started in 2008.

An update for you all.
Since 2010 toyota has a crd
D4d diesel additive sold over the counter at toyota spare parts. 250ml bottle for
26 bucks or there about.

boxhead55 wrote:And I see this thread started in 2008.

An update for you all.
Since 2010 toyota has a crd

All D4D are common rail

dervdave wrote:

boxhead55 wrote:And I see this thread started in 2008.

An update for you all.
Since 2010 toyota has a crd

All D4D are common rail

Lol that CRD isnt the end of the sentence, he's saying the additive has been around since 2010

StevenS wrote:

dervdave wrote:

boxhead55 wrote:And I see this thread started in 2008.

An update for you all.
Since 2010 toyota has a crd

All D4D are common rail

Lol that CRD isnt the end of the sentence, he's saying the additive has been around since 2010

I see that now

Ha ha ha

Would this oil be suitable? It's mineral, just wondering if there is any difference with outboard oil or not?

You should really looking for Jaso FC spec

dervdave wrote:You should really looking for Jaso FC spec

If you can find a JASO FD then use that, better cleaning properties whilst keeping all of the good stuff from jaso fc

sweet ill keep an eye out.
Cheers

BIGFOOTJR wrote:

dervdave wrote:You should really looking for Jaso FC spec

If you can find a JASO FD then use that, better cleaning properties whilst keeping all of the good stuff from jaso fc

Dont use JASO FD as this is synthetic and has higher ash content because of the higher detergents

So is there a preference yet??? I assume there will always be some for it and some against. I'd rather not use it until someone can absolutely confirm its better to, than not.

dervdave wrote:

BIGFOOTJR wrote:

dervdave wrote:You should really looking for Jaso FC spec

If you can find a JASO FD then use that, better cleaning properties whilst keeping all of the good stuff from jaso fc

Dont use JASO FD as this is synthetic and has higher ash content because of the higher detergents

Not all JASO FD classified two stroke oils are synthetic, there are semi synthetic too. You are right but don't forget what we are using it for. To lubricate and clean the fuel system and quieter engine noise, whatever ash is being produced will be nothing compared to the soot created from the diesel fuel which has a large amount of ash content anyway.

Ryno77 wrote:So is there a preference yet??? I assume there will always be some for it and some against. I'd rather not use it until someone can absolutely confirm its better to, than not.

JASO FB, FC and FD will be fine. I run JASO FD classified 2T oil and have no problems.