NewHilux.net

Hi there.
I know this has been talked about before and Ive been reading various post for hours, so apologies if Im covering previous material here.

My 07 d4d wouldn't start few months ago and after reading various posts here found that when I primed the filter it would fire up and run sweet.
It was pretty intermittent going weeks without trouble and when it wouldn't start, priming solved it.
I did notice on the days it would not start the primer was soft and the times it started the primer was firm. (I would check many times Prior to starting to work this out)

Now it wont start at all, the primer pump feels soft and once pumped so firm still wont start, if i leave it for sometime the valve is "soft" again. Does this mean it is sucking in air?
I striped the filter housing and checked the primer pump seals etc all "look" ok, filter also replaced to rule out seals on that.


I just removed striped and cleaned scv to rule it out, all looked ok.

Any help appreciated...

You have to be very careful when putting the filter housing back together to get the big circular lock ring back 100% true to the threads but you would see fuel coming out so its probably not that but worth checking again as its possible its not aligned properly and letting air in. What happens when you prime it up firm the start the engine, does it go soft again straight away?

Also check the lower drain bolt and o-ring for tightness then all hose clamps along the entire fuel line. Also check the actual plastic inlet / outlet ports for cracks.

Hellbound wrote:You have to be very careful when putting the filter housing back together to get the big circular lock ring back 100% true to the threads but you would see fuel coming out so its probably not that but worth checking again as its possible its not aligned properly and letting air in. What happens when you prime it up firm the start the engine, does it go soft again straight away?

Also check the lower drain bolt and o-ring for tightness then all hose clamps along the entire fuel line. Also check the actual plastic inlet / outlet ports for cracks.

I just checked, pumped up firm, cranked and it remained firm. But if you leave it 5 min or so its soft again.

I checked and double checked housing assembly, I had it off several times checking. I couldnt see any obvious cracks Is it common to have faulty housing that needs to be replaced?

I also removed the inlet fuel hose to filter and when cranking no fuel is coming out, is that normal?

I will go over entire fuel line and check.

Hmm ok, what about forward of the filter housing as there as couple of hose clamps along that line too.

Havent heard of anyone replacing a filter housing.

Could be something at the tank end also...

I had a similar problem a few months ago. Was driving me crazy due to it not starting or stalling when vehicle was on a nose down slope. Replaced SCV to no effect. Replaced hose clamps, no difference. Suspected housing was cross threaded. Replaced housing and problem solved.

interesting!

Hellbound wrote:Havent heard of anyone replacing a filter housing.

Replaced mine as i thought the primer was bung - cost $140-$150 with new filter. genuine unit.

Replaced filter housing including filter with new one, was same price as filter alone. Go figure.

Anyway it did not sold problem.


Anyone know if fuel should be coming up fuel line on cranking? Mine does not, I would have assumed it would start pumping as soon as key turned.

From the tank? No. There's no electronic pump in the tank. The high pressure pump sucks on the tank, that's how they draw air in if the filter leaks. There's lots of things that could stop it running.

I have taken off SCV again and had a better look, very slight wear makings (engine done 200,000k).
Checked the resistance across terminals and it is 2.4 ohms.
I have read that it should be 1.5 to 1.7, but others mentioned up to 2.2?
Price from toyota NZ $450 mark.

I did read on forum using a small 12v pump inline to help diagnose if fuel issue, can anyone elaborate on this? Is it just the kind of pump used in none Efi petrol engine available from repoco etc?

The bleed pump on New filter housing still goes soft after a few minutes, I put a brake hose clamp on the fuel hose leaving the filter and bleed pump button will stay firm when hose clamp is after the filter housing, so its loosing the pressure after the filter. Should of done this before to rule out filter assembly and hoses to tank.

To be honest mate, without proper diagnosing you could spend a lot of time and money you don't need to. If you got hold of a scanner and looked at rail pressure you'd straight away know where you're at.

Thanks, yeah I will have to find someone with scan tool.
I live a way out of town and vehicle stuck on the farm so was hoping to avoid a long tow in.

Did I read somewhere that there is an app for iphones that can read codes?

There is an app for the iphone, but it requires an adapter and it only reads codes not engine values like rail pressures. If your going to order something from ebay order a mini vci and techstream from china. $50 does everything.
My guess, and it's only a guess, is the SCV. It only takes a light scuff marks to effect the performance and at 200,000km it's probably had its day.

Sorry mate, not trying to put a downer on it. Just hate to see you waste $100's on guesses. Andy is quite possibly on the money, but like he said, it's an educated guess.

http://www.newhilux.net/forum/viewtopic ... 13&t=16394
mini vci and techstream, just found a tread on this forum about it, thanks Guys.

I was a mechanic until 99, mostly at dealerships, new mazda/fords, obviously no common rail diesels back then but efi petrol.
There is nothing I cant fix or replace on the Ute BUT its just the diagnosis thats the hard part (isn't it always), When working for dealerships like mazda we could pull a car of the yard and swap parts that we thought would be faulty. Easy as.

Ah ok. You'll be all over it then. If you can see what's happening electronically you'll be well on the way.

I`m having the same issue on my 2012 D4D, very annoying

Toyota has looked at it and a diesel specialist, no faults with injectors or pump pressure

Never considered the SCV though, what do you use to clean it?

Any progress with your fault finding?

cheers

I have the mini vci scan tool now but laptop is having trouble so not much progress with fault finding as yet.
Will let you know when i get some where with it.

ok quick up date, I was WAY off the mark, the previous fuel issue had lead me down the wrong road.

The scan tool kept telling me ECU not connected.
And then I noticed that the engine light and glow-plug light are no illuminating on the dash when key turned on.
I checked the glow plug relay and just having a look around there and when I went to check lights were on and it started.

Switched off and retried and lights off and no start again. Removed glow plug relay and tested on battery and with DVM, It was clicking but seemed to have resistance across terminals when there should be no resistance. Replaced with none genuine relay but still no lights.
Checked and double checked fuses etc.
From what I have read here a possible sensor short, I will go through and disconnect each sensor starting with EGR as suggested by boxhead in another post.

Also I will remove fuse box behind battery and have a look as it was after playing with it when lights did temporally light up...

Never had to do it on a hilux yet but try and access a power supply and earth diagram for the ecu. Check engine light is a pretty basic output. Is there an ECM/ecu relay? Someone chime in?