NewHilux.net

jay73 wrote:on a 2013 hilux turbo diesel 2kd ftv . i am trying to tell the mekanic to check my sump oil screen but he keeps telling me with firm tone that the engine need to be removed to get to it. i asked 3 other mekanics and they told me same thing. ppl here hv no idea about injector seals n that whole 9 yard. i am disappointed bz i really dont want em to remove my engine . there are practically no good mekanic shop and they throw things around dirt everywhere bolts nuts all over somtimes they forget to put bck hardware or forget to tighten em bz low wages etc am in africa. is it really possible to see the screen with flashlight from oil emptying plug. i was told repeatitly that the plug and the screen are not in the line of view n impossible to see that way. c. am thinking next time they do my oil change myself n look but i hv to forcr n n be pushy bz they keep telling me that u cant see it i dont do oil chnge by myself at home or anything like am not very hand can some of u shed some more light on this please thx

I don't know if you can see all of the screen when you dump the oil but you can definitely see the screen on the 1KD-FTV - not sure if it's the same for the 2KD-FTV. I've also heard of some mechanics using a borescope to take a look?

Massive read and good info on this thread. So the big question. Iv got my hilux booked in for injector sheets/seats recall next week. Its got massive blow by. Intake and vacuum lines are covered in oil. Oil has soaked exhaust. Havent had oil light come on yet. Stopped driving it now. Pick up was clean at 200,000. 210,000km on clock now. Haven't checked pickup yet. Will tomorrow though. So should i get the injectors replaced now same time as seats. Iv seen info stating 100000 replace injectors and also 250000 replace but then others saying 400000 still going strong. Should i just get the seats done and just get injector spray patterns tested. Feedbacks iv checked and came within specs.

You will have to see how bad the blow by is.
Sounds like you still have the old Toyota copper seats in your vehicle?
If the blow by is bad and the oil gallery that supplies engine oil to the injector is blocked, then you may be up for a new set of injectors.
The injectors are oil cooled you see, through that gallery in the cylinder head. If the oil cooling isn't happening because of the blow by, the command piston and even the injector housing, can be damaged.
The Roo.

If there is evidence of blocked pick up would the dealer clean this at the time of new injector sheets as my newly aquired 2006 duel cab hasn't had the recall done yet (but its booked in later on in the week) and has massive blow by and shit at pickup.. Also if the pick up is blocked wouldn't it be the best time to do a compression test and also would the dealers pick this cost up. Lets say there is scoring of block who covers that cost.
I say this because all the associated ploblem stem from the leaking sheets.

I know they are supposed to check the screen and clean it if necessary but good luck with the rest of it!

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Nikk wrote:If there is evidence of blocked pick up would the dealer clean this at the time of new injector sheets as my newly aquired 2006 duel cab hasn't had the recall done yet (but its booked in later on in the week) and has massive blow by and shit at pickup.. Also if the pick up is blocked wouldn't it be the best time to do a compression test and also would the dealers pick this cost up. Lets say there is scoring of block who covers that cost.
I say this because all the associated ploblem stem from the leaking sheets.

Are you still driving it?

No mate. Iv stopped driving it. Dropped the oil and seen the screen is blocked. Its not as clogged as one shown at the beginning of this feed. 50% less blocked. Also the mesh is visable. So hope there is no scoring but only time will tell.
Today i spoke with toyota dealer. Iv asked them same questions. They said first thing is they will change the seats and take pictures. They said its not their responsibilities to change injectors even if blocked up. But what they did say they will take picts and lodge it with toyota. The final desision will be up to them. Having 212000 on clock i may also get new injectors done at same time. Then go through the tough process that the dealer has said. Wait and see what toyota says. Thats why iv asked on this feed what else and obstacles others have had.

Maybe this is the place to talk about the washers.....



Baileys brass is the 2 on the right.

The other 4 are genuine Toyota.

Note, the genuine are copper, but come in 2 different finishes.
The dull Matt finish being the most common.

Yes fourby4diesel

nice photo

i get it about the washers. the last lot on the rebuilt donk in the rebuild post i fitted were the dull mat finish copper ones, I scored the outer edge with a small file to check as a mark on the outer rim perpendicular to the sealing faces has no effect on functionallity of the washer. i would not trust brass ones they are too hard and until your post was I unaware there were any other type than the copper ones as annealed copper would seem to be the most sensible solution for that kind of seal.

Generally, I have found the brass ones leaking very soon.
Often right away, as they don't seal. Too hard, no flex, no squash.
If they seal, after a few months & few thousand Klm's of heating & cooling, they usually are leaking.






This oil pickup was 100% clean in jan 15, by September 15 & under 20,000k, one example of many similar.

It's baileys injectors came with brass washers








I have lost count how many I have seen leaking.







Look these plenty more but you get the picture. The evidence is right there.
IMO people need to know about it.

Quick question, why do some look rusty as if they'd been sitting in water for months??

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It's a reaction that seems to be happening with the brass.
That orange powder welding them in almost.

Ok cool thanks. Looks like rust!

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Hi Everyone, i'm new to this forum. I bought a toyota hilux 2 weeks ago with the engine making a loud noise, but not knowing which exactly was the cause of it ( i knew that probably i would have to rebuil it). I started disassemblying the engine and realized that the piston number 1 was seized. When i took the inyectors out, the number 2 cyl. had the copper sheet blown and everything was a mess. I didn't realize that the two problems were linked until i started reading this forum THANKS GOD AND ALL OF YOU!!!. When i thought that this could be the problem, took the oil pan and oil pick up out and found that it was almost completly stuck (will post pics soon). And well.... here i am, trying to rebuid it by my own. I have been readind all the threads related to this, but there is so much info and posts, that i cand find an answer to this question: As i mentioned, i'm repairing the seized piston by my own, i removed all the aluminum with a 1200 grit sand paper wet with kerosene (only in the places were the cyl. had aluminum on it) and found that there are no deep stripes in the cylinder n1, only some hone lines have been erased, so i think that maybe with a light honing i could repair the engine by putting new piston and rings in there. I only disassembled what's needed to find the problem and access to the parts involved, but the engine keeps in the Hilux and haven't pull out the balancers or the other pistons ( the other 3 cyl are perfect). Here is the question: Could lack of oil pressure have seized another thing in the engine like balancers or crankshaft? or this type of failure always damage 1 or 2 cyl. while the rest of the engine is fine? (the previous owner told me that he was driving in the highway 110 km/h and the engine started to make an awful noise, then he shut off it inmediatly). Has anyone seen another hilux with this problem that have seized another parts in the engine besides the pistons/cylenders? thank you very much! Alan.

Im no expert and havent done a hilux rebuild but my thinking is any oil starvation bad enough to seize a piston would have stuffed everything else. Id be pulling it down completely and checking everything. Not worth doing 1 piston now only to have a big end let go and stuff the rest shortly after.

Thanks fracturedranga for your quick response. You are right, but, pistons are the most extressed part in the engine because they deal with high temperatures of the combustion chamber, and are only cooled and oiled by the spryjet. When suddenly there's no oil pressure, i believe, the part that firsts run out of lubrication is the piston, because of the working principles and the temperature, that, without lubrication, rises quikly because of friction. Also they are made out of alluminum, that melts far below grey cast. I really don't know exactly, that's why i'm asking someone that have rebuid a seized starved engine
If i must, i'll pull it down completely, but i don't want to do, it if it isn't necessary ....

I've rebuilt many many oil starved engines(mostly petrol but it makes no difference) and have found over the years that alot of the time either the cams, big ends or main bearings suffer first. They may not lock up but they still get damaged! Pull it out and strip it bud! Besides how do you know it was the blocked pick up screen that stopped it?? You'll need to clean and blow out every oil gallery there is to make sure there are no other blockages!

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TOYZX wrote:I've rebuilt many many oil starved engines(mostly petrol but it makes no difference) and have found over the years that alot of the time either the cams, big ends or main bearings suffer first. They may not lock up but they still get damaged! Pull it out and strip it bud! Besides how do you know it was the blocked pick up screen that stopped it?? You'll need to clean and blow out every oil gallery there is to make sure there are no other blockages!

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I took out piston 1 and the rod, and the bearing was perfect, and also had oil remaining ( i mean it didn't worked dry). Camshaft journals were also well lubricated an in perfect condition. I will take out the oil filter and split it in two to see if it was stuck with dust so that the over preassure could have opened the by pass valve of the filter. That could be the only way the oil galleries could be dirty too, because, after the pump, like in all hidraulic circuits, comes the filter.

I recently checked my pickup screen, 2007 KUN16 it had a bad 90% blockage, should have checked it earlier. had injectors and seals changed 4 years ago, which was my first disassembley of the rocker cover, I guess its the cleaning the seats which wasnt up to scratch.

So its worth checking frequently, actually I had already made 2 extra drain holes to the right of the original drain hole (Then welded a nut onto the inside of the oil pan). This time I cleaned the oil pickup through these holes. I scrape the screen with a 3 inch sewing needle, (kind of like cleaning a bong) then I spray with carby cleaner and spray compressed air into the holes. The nozzle on the compressed air is the needle one that inflates footballs.

That 6.9 litres of oil in the engine also gets used by the turbo, which isn't good, say if a cir-clip, (the size of a tooth), inside the turbo falls off or breaks, then you start leaking oil quite fast, hopefully that single strand of wire that connects to your oil sensor is attached, because the oil warning is the only warning light that saves your engine. Perphaps extra sensors are in order, for example you can buy basic sensors from china for $5 - 10. I was thinking about drilling and oil sensor hole into the sump pan.

Arn't toyota a strange company, according to the official website, KUN16R isn't a model, it doesn't exist, like australias are only getting counterfeit toyotas or something. They make a good hilux, then ruin everything with clogged pickup screens and injectors making holes in pistons. Actually we're all using Russian style pistons inside the 1kdftv now.