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Purty pictures Roo.

Talktheroo wrote:The TMC specifications are as follows.
Injector clamp bolt torque : 22Nms.
Leakage pipe injectors x 4 : 16Nms.
Leakage pipe outlet on the cylinder head, rear : 12.5Nms.
I always replace the injector pipe nozzle seals and the injector clamp bolt washers. Also, the five leakage pipe gaskets which Baileys Diesel Group do a lot cheaper than Toyota Parts.
Injector pipe union nut torque, new pipes : 32Nms. This includes the rail side and the injector side.
Injector pipe union nut torque, old pipes : 35Nms.
Crows foot spanners.







The Roo.

Hey brother,

That 17mm looks a bit well used. Have you tried doing this job blindfolded yet?

Just reviving an old thread here.

Question,

What exactly is injector coding, what does it do?

It is the primary fuel trim. So the inconsistencies of manufacturing the primary fuel trim is identical for every injector

Yes the engine will run without the coding being done but all the fuel trims and feed back values will be incorrect till they have been coded.

Thanks for that, it really is amazing the amount of detail that has come with computer technology.
Imagine if you told a mechanic that idea 50 years ago, you would end up in a padded cell.

Anyone changing injectors, getting them done? Now there is an easy way to do a compression test while its open.
You should do this because compressions can cause rattles.
Also it may indicate damage already done.

Special tool available now, have a sniff, If anyone wants to do the injector job more like the experts do, have a read & get yourself one or a set of these.
I use a set of 4, saves time.

http://www.tnnengineering.com/tnn-engineering-develops-1kd-compression-testing-tool/

Hey crew,

Anybody getting their injectors done, it's a big job & while you are at it, it's time to give the engine a health check.

1.) While the injectors are out insert Inspection camera & check the pistons, normal pitting is ok, mainly looking for cracks.
2.) check the valve clearances. Know what's acceptable & adjust only if necessary.
3.) compression test, using the new special tool makes the job easy.

This thread is mainly about the compression test.
To do a compression test normally, a fair bit of work needs to be done to remove the glow plugs usually, it costs hundreds.

Now it can be done accurately & easily while the injectors are out.
The procedure:

Remove injectors


If the ports are dirty, clean them


I use a 16mm dowel

With strips of rag

Used & port is clean enough for now.


Like so


Drop a sheet/seal in the port, look I can't even see it, but it's there, make sure it's sitting flat


Put some lubricant on the o-rings, engine oil will do, you can see the product I use


Grab your dummy injector, special tool or tools, I use 4 for efficiency, place them in the ports.


Make sure the tool is set square & well clear of the camshafts. Like below.


Not like this, see the camshaft may hit the tool, bad news!


Torque them down to 20nm (injector torque spec is 22nm) 20 is fine for this test.


Connect your compression tester, I have multiple, it's a quality assurance thing, I like to have other units to compare results.



Make sure they are all secured & everything is clear of any turning parts, eg; camshafts & crank.
Record readings.
Swap compression testers around if you like a second or 3rd opinion, it only takes an extra minute.
Once your happy, remove injector clamps, remove special tool, don't forget to pick up the sheets/seals if they did not stay in the bottom of the tool, they do about half the time.

I use a little pick with a bend like below


Make sure you have your 4 sheets/seals before going any further.


Then carry on with the injector replacement job.

Thankx for reading, I hope you like it.

Cheers,

Anth.

Awesome thread...

Does the d4d turn over by hand ?

Hellbound wrote:Awesome thread...

Does the d4d turn over by hand ?

To do the compression test you have to crank the engine over, is it easy to do with a ratchet on the crank bolt or do you need something stronger i.e power tools or bump the starter motor ?

Nice one fourby4diesel! Think I'll come you guys when I'm due for a set.

Hellbound wrote:To do the compression test you have to crank the engine over, is it easy to do with a ratchet on the crank bolt or do you need something stronger i.e power tools or bump the starter motor ?

The only way to do it is crank it. With the key. About 10 compressions till it up to full comp.

Yes, it does pay to have a way of deleting all the fault codes caused by having all the associated plugs unplugged.
A diagnostic tool is the go for this, I reckon.
Tin from TNN Engineering and Anthony designed this method of compression testing and the tool.
The Roo.

So i showed you how it works.
now here it is:

http://www.ebay.ph/itm/COMPRESSION-TEST ... SwJb9WqgHL

I had this made for my own use, I have asked the manufacturer to put them on eBay so I can make them available for you guys.

Maybe save the seller, he makes the blank plate with 7mm hole, (thin & easier to install, smaller stud holes) the diff plug, & the diff plug removing tool, (roos nuts), roo asked him to do that. Now the compression tester, what's next?
Well he also makes the transmission cooler brackets & other stuff I don't even know about.

He's a really great bloke & willing to help out, if there is a product you need & enough quantity he's the man to talk to.

http://www.tnnengineering.com/

Speak to Tin.

Hope that helps, cheers, Anth.

I know this is an old thread but hoping sombody can give me the answer can the injectors be coded using tech stream? or will i need to get toyota do do it

Hi, what is the correct torque setting for the 1kd injector pipes? Thanks

1KD? Gen 7 section:
1KD injector replacement

Thanks deadlybeast, I don’t know how I posted here. You’re doing a great job merging and tidying up the threads.

No worries mate
Theres a few threads referencing injector replacement. Will merge or link more of these