NewHilux.net

I have just fitted air bags and have been playing around with ride hieght / pressures.

Today I had to stop in a hurry and the brakes were basically not there.

I had the pedal being punished with all my wieght.

Came home and did the ''TOMUCH'' brake test.
i.e. jack up the rear diff and put on stands (not the chassis), chock the fronts, run in 2wd, 2nd gear, revs at idle, applies brakes, nothing the wheels kept turning.

Then fitted a 40mm extension to the valve rod that connects to the diff.

Re-did the test and the engine stoped with hardly any pressure, amazing.

So I bent the horizontal bar a bit as it doesnt lock the brakes on a road test.

Will test on outing tonight.

All you blokes with raised suspension if you have not adjusted the load valve, I would suggest you at least test if they are working prpoerly using the above method.

Macca

could you post photos of the rod you mean please?

Mines been wound right up to then of its adjustments to suit my lift and i havent had any problems yet. It mainly affects rear braking pressure when the rear of the hilux is loaded, when empty it shouldnt affect braking pressure, so if you have a problem with the brakes when the rear is empty, it must be something else causing it.

Macca,

Were you loaded at that time or was the rear deck empty?

Thanks

Brendon

I'm sure it also affects the rear when empty.
See the other thread on this topic...

Macca, where did you get the 40 MM extension to the valve rod?
Have you got a pic of that extension??

Rich.

mmax
how do you know how much to adjust it to
did you do it or was it done by toyota

tolinja
Try and get some photos today, the rod or lever run across the ute in front of the spare wheel to the valve mounted on the passenger side (Mines RHD for our O/S members) chassis rail

mmaaxx
The valve adjustment was the problem irrespective of the load, it is the hieght or distance from the diff to the chassis that was increased as it would if the tub was empty.

Brendon
It would have been 1/2 loaded, but with 10psi in the bags it was lifted 20mm which made the valve ''think'' it was empty, therfore reduced braking effect.

Rich
The extension I used was a 40mm deep nut used to join 2 pieces of 8mm threaded rod, with a short piece of rod in 1 end to refit the horizontal bar/lever to.


David
I would adjust the setting up by the amount of your lift.

Macca

when I did my suspension, me mate that did the suspension adjusted it for me but when I added the 1 inch lift blocks in the back I would it out another 20mm or so which brought it close to the end of the factory adjustment and I tightened it there. works fine for me, whether shes loaded or empty.

I had to do the same sort of extension to my old LN106 as well after raising it about 3-4 inches.

Macca,

Good morning or rather good afternoon in Sydney.

Thanks for the info. Would appreciate the pictures once you have them.

Thanks

Brendon

Macca,

I noticed that you always post early in the morning. Are you an early bird by nature or do you need to go to work around that time?

Cheers

Brendon

The more I drink the night before the earlier I need a coffee,

I think the post time is WA time, its 1.44pm east coast now
Macca

Macca01

Do you like being called a Sydney sider.

No f'n Larttay's here mate.
I do live next to the same puddle just a bit further north,
Macca

The problem started with these
Thats the rod on the top left of the pic I bent to get a bit more agression in the brake system.
Energy stored in here

Fixed with this


Macca

A dual needle guage, solonoids on a manifold and water filter are next on the list. Then I have in car control. Will be making allowance when doing the work to fit air lockers in the future.
Macca

after maccas post the other day i thought i better check my brakes out too and just like he said there was nothing there, pretty scary to think i've been driving around for this long with no rear brakes, (and towing a carpenters trailer for most of that time). anyway this is how i fixed it.

pulled the rod off the diff and took washer and nut off get a piece of threaded booker rod from any hardware shop the same thread as the rod that i am lengthening, i cut the booker rod to 100mm because i have about a 75mm lift in the back but wanted to have some extra just incase i want to lift it a bit more. bevel the end of both rods so i could get a decent weld on them. welded them together and put a bit of black paint over raw metal to stop any rust. put it all back together and it works great even the hand brake seems to be working better (dont know if thats in my head or not though haha)

hi guys
i have an auto with around a 40mm lift in the rear.

Will the brake test work for an auto aswell.
do you guys think i should just adjust to the max that is possible from the factory rod.
How do you know is it has been adjusted to much?

Dave, It will make no difference auto or manual. Road test to see if it improves or makes the brakes too agressive. I would go 40mm as that compensates for your lift.
Macca