NewHilux.net

10 luxxxx wrote:I would be very interested in this if it happens mate. Keep us updated as I don't do Facebook.

Yah I will be watching.... One of his other jobs:



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Want to know exactly what needs to be done to run 33s without scrubbing on guards ect . And where have people bought their lifts from in Brisbane ?

and i thought i was bad opening up threads that had been discussed a lot

Up top ^^^^^ where it says Search The Fourm type in

Fitting 33s, There is a full guide there will have everything you need to know

Welcome to the forum Jayd.

There's heaps of info on here about fitting 33's. This thread I particular has everything you need.

As for suspension options, there heaps, check out the suspension section for starters.

Threads merged.

Hey guys anyone running 285/70/R17 tyres with a 2" lift? Not sure wether they would fit or if I should get a body lift...

I'm about to buy new wheels and tires for a 2012 Hilux and want to check on the forums before the purchase.

Wheels: Hutchinson P/N WA-0567, 17x8.5" with 4.51" backspacing (isn't this equivalent to around -6 offset?)
Tires: Goodyear Wrangler MT/R with Kevlar tires, size 285/70/17.

I'm also going to upgrade the suspension with an Old Man Emu suspension with 2-3" of lift (haven't decided yet).

Will this wheel/tire combo cause any rubbing or problems? Should I go bigger than 285/70/17?

Thank you.

All the info is here if ya have a read. You using 4.5 inch wheel spacers? Buggee that! If ya buying new rims why not just get the offet you want. Get ready for some trimming with -6 offset. And you'll want 3 inch lift min which OME don't do!

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If your backspace is measured from the outside of the well and not the extreme edge of the rim, 4.5 with 8.5 width should give you about 3mm positive offset (allowing 3mm for steel thickness in the rim.)

Personally, I think backspacing is a much simpler idea for most people to work with when dealing with clearance issues

IIRC, a standard 7.5x17 Toyota wheel has about 130mm back space (to edge of well.). 4.5" is around 114mm, so with a 285 on that 8.5", you should gain at least 16mm - 5/8" extra clearance on the inside edge of the side wall, particularly as the 285/8.5 combination will not protrude as far past the rim edge as the standard 265/7.5 combination.

TOYZX wrote:All the info is here if ya have a read. You using 4.5 inch wheel spacers? Buggee that! If ya buying new rims why not just get the offet you want. Get ready for some trimming with -6 offset. And you'll want 3 inch lift min which OME don't do!

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I need to use these Hutchinson wheels for this application, for their strength and the beadlock.

Why would I need 4.5 inch wheel spacers? I do not understand, can you please explain this?

So TOYZX says that I will have clearance issues, and nicebike says that I will actually have extra clearance with this setup?

Any third opinions to help settle this? This is a lot of money, and I need to ship them internationally so I can't afford to have any problems!

Sorry what is meant by back spacing? Does it not mean wheel spacers?

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So from what I understand is it is just another way of talking about offset. Sorry for the confusion! Just used to talking in offset! Either way you'll be better of with atleast 3 inch lift and anywhere between +10 and 0 offset you'll be fine. Then it just depends on the tyre ya get some may rub on the inner guard and body mount, some wont!

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What Toyz said above Clearance between the inner sidewall and at the rear of the wheel arch are two separate issues -both answers are correct

With that set up, you should have no clearance issues with the inner sidewall of the tyre, such as on UCAs or sway bar, but will probably have to do some fiddling at the rear of the wheel arch. The further out the centreline of the rim, and the outer edge of the tyre tread, is from the centre of the vehicle, the closer the tread edge comes to the inner guard and body mount when on lock.

Simply winding the steering to full lock while the vehicle is sitting on the suspension, then crawling around underneath to check clearances will confirm what we have said. You can also easily check the back space of your standard wheels with a straight edge and a good ruler or tape. If the back set of the Hutchinson is less than the standard wheel, the inner sidewall edge, with a 285 on8.5" rims should be fine.

Although your numbers and my guesstimating suggest that your wheels have approx 3mm/.125" offset, actual thickness of the metal in the bead wall of the well will affect my 3mm guesstimate. The wheels may well be 0 offset as that is more likely than 3mm.

Size variations between tyre brands can also come into play, but I have seen some pretty big 285s successfully fitted to Hiluxes.

I run 285/70-17 BFG at with 2 inch lift.

On original toyo alloy wheels.

33" x 12.5 bfg at on -48 offset 15" x 10" wheels.
Love em.

Body mounts both sides needs trim, flaps rear of front tyres needs removing and some work on the arch is required there also. Front flaps and stock bumpers will require some working unless u drop em off and go aftermarket.

Have not placed stock flares back on yet exploring aftermarket option first and a definite regear seems in order on my 2009 manual 2.5 if i plan to go off road.
Good luck

nbrebel wrote:33" x 12.5 bfg at on -48 offset 15" x 10" wheels.
Love em.

Body mounts both sides needs trim, flaps rear of front tyres needs removing and some work on the arch is required there also. Front flaps and stock bumpers will require some working unless u drop em off and go aftermarket.

Have not placed stock flares back on yet exploring aftermarket option first and a definite regear seems in order on my 2009 manual 2.5 if i plan to go off road.
Good luck

So you have the centre line of your rim 78mm further out than a stock 7.5 Toyota rim ? That would create some interesting loads on the spindle and upright, and everything else.

Good luck indeed

Well thats certainly interesting..
For daily driving will see how the axels hold up.
Any better suggestions?
Thanks

I'm running mine on a 2" lift, 0 offset wheels, they do brush the guard liner on full compression at the back of the arch, but some castor correction UCA's would fix that, plenty of room to move forward with an aftermarket bar on.

However, as I found with my last two fourbies, there can be minor clearance differences between identical models.

Every rig is a little different. Some guys manage to get them in there with only 2inch lift( buggered if I know how!) But most need at least 3 with a minimum of +10 offset to clear the uca. I'm running 2inch suspension and 2inch body lift with 0 offset and just had to chop up my body mounts on the weekend. -45 would look cool but impractical.

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taresk wrote:I'm running mine on a 2" lift, 0 offset wheels, they do brush the guard liner on full compression at the back of the arch, but some castor correction UCA's would fix that, plenty of room to move forward with an aftermarket bar on.

However, as I found with my last two fourbies, there can be minor clearance differences between identical models.

UCAs that increase castor will actually decrease clearance at the back of the arch. Only a little, but still a decrease.