NewHilux.net

Yes had one stud bust off the passenger rear wheel... right after an align & rotate at the local tyre dealer. I suspect a rattle gun, but they swear they didn't.

how much are new wheel studs ? (I should get a couple to keep in my toolbox)..

Steve9R wrote:how much are new wheel studs ? (I should get a couple to keep in my toolbox)..

List Price is -

FRONT WHEEL STUDS = $4.40 each Part No - 9094202049

REAR WHEEL STUDS = $7.30 each Part No - 9094202052

mmaxx, the Toyota wheel studs are made from the same stuff those cheap bolt that you by from Bunnings are.

We have broken a few and we use a torque wrench (suspect dealer using a rattle gun was the cause), one of them I had to do twice because when I was pulling through the new one it started to stretch the stud.....I've never had this problem on any other wheel studs.

We carry a set of front and rears with us at all times.

doesnt give you much faith in them huh? Im surprised so many of you blokes have had issues with them.....

I might replace the whole set front and back and keep the old ones as spares....

I recommend you guys should look at the aftermarket wheel studs from nice products. http://www.niceproducts.com.au/. We have used these on all of our vehicle with great suscess. There's also another thread on the wheel studs here-

http://newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=5808

Thanks Brendan for that....do you happen to have the part number for the front and rear studs that you used and approx. price so we can compare witht he factory toyota ones?

thanks mate.

i replaced all my studs with the nice products wheel studs on the front of my ute, worked great, about 10 bucks per stud. they come about 30 0r 40 mm longer then standard studs. then just cut them back to the length i wanted. the product number was ns3400.

Do any of you use lubricant on your wheel studs ?? I've always used nickel anti seze on my wheel studs, the lubricant allows the nuts to tighten on the wheels, not bind on the threads. No the wheels wont come loose and fall off as is often suggested.
Dont allow the tireshop guy to rattle them up
Geoff

I noticed that the front and rears are different lengths, can't remember which is which but did notice that one picks up more thread than the other?

Hello Bushbound

WARNING.......................
What ever you You do Don`t use lubricant!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The recommended torque setting by Toyota is not “Lube Rated”..............If you use lubricant you will artificially increase the torque on your studs then stretch them.

Broken studs are a major problem on Toyotas as workshops and tyre retailers insist on using high powered rattle guns and hammer the crap out of the studs.

Warning:
2005- 4X4 Toyota Hilux wheel nuts must not exceed 105nm or 77lbf ft. Please use a torque wrench.

Ive used wd40 on the threads to help the nuts go on nice and smooth...you suggesting this is wrong and may have played a part in the breakage?

might have to invest in a torque wrench....

I do all my own services....wheel nuts are always torqued tight on my right arm breaker bar torque setting....

Hello

Unfortunately yes

Standard engineering rule........Never use lubricant when a torque setting is required unless stated for example: “Lube torque to:....Nw”

Lubricant (any... even water) will increase the torque substantially
There is a warning in the Toyota service manual and also the “Hand manual” found in the vehicle not to use lubricant on the wheel nuts.

Also of interest

Others on this website have suggested to use stronger studs this is in fact dangerous If you continue to use lubricant or not use a torque wrench you can bend your hubs or much much worse fracture an Aluminium wheel, especially if it is of high quality aluminium like a Pro-Comp or Simmons.

Toyota specifically designed the studs to be softer than the hub and aluminium wheels.

Keep your wheel studs clean and dry before assy.

Gulfstream8 wrote:Hello

Unfortunately yes

Standard engineering rule........Never use lubricant when a torque setting is required unless stated for example: “Lube torque to:....Nw”

X 2 - I was always taught never to oil wheel nuts and always put them back on dry. Now after nearly 40 years since first being told this, I know the reason!

Others on this website have suggested to use stronger studs this is in fact dangerous If you continue to use lubricant or not use a torque wrench you can bend your hubs or much much worse fracture an Aluminium wheel, especially if it is or high quality aluminium as a Pro-Comp of Simmons.

I agree with using a torque wrench or torque bars for tightening the wheel nuts. If you refer to the other thread on wheel studs you will see the main reason members (including myself) installed the aftermarket studs is because the original studs are too short for a lot of the aftermarket wheels.

Threads have been merged for housekeeping.

Hey guys

I had a smart idea of putting my mates 80 series split rims on to see if the 32" tyres fitted under with stock suspension
A few months later I got a round to taking them off and as I was undoing them a far few snapped off
I'v replaced the rear ones but got a snapped one on the front.
Just wondering If any one has changed them and are they a prickly to change?
Should I get a mechanic to do it or is a little bit of knowledge good enough ?

Thanks, Alex

If you did the rears you can do the fronts. Just take caliper and disc off and the studs will push out of the hub.

Cheers,

Chris.

Sweet I just wasn't sure if you have to do anything with the cv as every one I'v talked to has a different story

Thanks Chris much appreciated

Alex.

theres a small SST tool which basically looks like a thic C-shapped brackets with a high tensile bolt going into it.

you place this over the hub and slowly screw the bolt to push the stud out.

its not that expensive, i carry one in my toolbox all the time with a couple spare studs for front and back (they are both different lengths)