is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe)

is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe)

Postby ashh on Mon, 01 Aug 2016 1:21 +0000

just want to confirm that this is the correct walkthrough for replacing the crank shaft seal on 2008 4.0L V6 cheers

http://www.moranbahweather.com/toyota/lc_trj12/rm/rm1017e/m_14_0112.pdf
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby ashh on Mon, 01 Aug 2016 1:24 +0000

oh, and any helpful tips from anyone who has done the job?
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby TOYZX on Mon, 01 Aug 2016 3:55 +0000

I know I'm no help with doin the job but one thing I've learnt from doin any main seal is always use a genuine seal!

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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby ashh on Mon, 01 Aug 2016 4:32 +0000

yeah will be using genuine
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby Gulfstream8 on Mon, 01 Aug 2016 7:58 +0000

May I ask why it's leaking or how may K's on it?

I just did some Googling to try and find a "Video how too" on it for you and I came up with Zero - also it does not come up as a common problem.

Just interested that's all as the 1GR-FE does not seem to come up online with problems.
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby ashh on Mon, 01 Aug 2016 9:04 +0000

just shy of 200k, dunno why but it just is, afew fellas on a 1grfe FB page have had it happen, apparently they are susceptible to sand and mud and is also just a mildly common wear and tear issue.
There's quite afew if you google 1grfe crank seal leak, Tacomas prados etc
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby Gulfstream8 on Tue, 02 Aug 2016 5:33 +0000

What engine oil and viscosity are you running if you don't mind me asking ?
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby ashh on Tue, 02 Aug 2016 6:34 +0000

Penrite HPR5 full synthetic 5W-40
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby Gulfstream8 on Tue, 02 Aug 2016 7:41 +0000

Ok - yes I just checked and that is the oil they are recommending on their website.

FYI
I have noticed over the last few years some oil companies have had to change their oil composition to be compatible with manufacturers new engine seals and new hi-temp and long lasting engine crankshaft seals like a Viton etc. this has been a problem as some oil companies have been slow to make the change.

For example: Castrol makes 2 to 3 versions of Castrol edge 5w - 30 and when you read the specifications it's got to do with comparability to the engine seals. There is also a warning on the Castrol site about using the wrong 5w 30 Castrol Edge oil can lead to seal damage and engine oil leaks.
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby ashh on Tue, 02 Aug 2016 9:00 +0000

do you think I should be Changing viscosity of oil due to getting to the 200,000klm mark now?
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby Gulfstream8 on Tue, 02 Aug 2016 5:21 +0000

ashh wrote:do you think I should be Changing viscosity of oil due to getting to the 200,000klm mark now?


No not unless you have a problem is the short answer - below is only if your interested in more info.

I have always run Mobil 1 5w-30 in my Lux and I always cut the Filter open to inspect at every service and never find any metal. I have done random oil Analysis over its life and its always been sweet so I have no intention of going to a higher viscosity because of KLM.

Viscosity ---- Im only using Mobil 1 in the below as an example
Ok this gets a little confusing. All good oils you will find are tested to 100 Degree Celsius to give you the actual engine running viscosity and thats so there is a standard for building an engine for clearances and oil sprayers etc. And this is where it gets confusing - at 100c Mobil 1 5w-30 and 0w-40 are almost the same viscosity (about 11 or 12) and your 1GR-FE has a very stable engine temp (if I can remember) at 84c so going up in Viscosity makes no difference in this case --- but at start up the 5w-30 flows better so thats how it gets its "Fuel Economy" status. Also for the record the Mobil 1 5w-30 maintains its viscosity to 200c so if one was thinking of going to a thicker oil will give you more protection its debatable. But going to a "Thicker" oil and one thats actually thicker at 100c than the oil company recommendation tool could actually cause damage to your engine.

I always use the Oil Recommendation Tool on the website of what ever my favorite oil company happens to be.

I do this for three reasons - 1: Compatibility with engine seals 2: Correct Viscosity (More Below) 3: If I have a problem I will go back to that oil company with my oil Analysis -- remember theres over a Million 1GR-FE's out there and plenty of Americans who love to sue so they need to get it right.

Correct Viscosity from the recommendation tool of your favorite oil.
Its very important as a 5w-30 (or 10w-40) may not have the same specs as a 5w-30 (or 10w-40) from another company.

A very easy way to prove this is go and use the oil recommendation tool on a number of oil company websites and you will find something very interesting. They will happily recommend their Top of the Range 5w-30 Synthetic oil for our 1GR-FE (Or the TRD Hilux) but when it comes to their normal Mineral and cheaper oils they only recommend a 10w-40. I think this says a lot about "Oils Ain't Oils".

In your case the oil company your using is recommending both the 5w-30 and 10w-40 so I presume without reading their data sheet that they are happy that at 100c the viscosity is correct for the 1GR-FE.
Last edited by Gulfstream8 on Tue, 02 Aug 2016 5:49 +0000, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby ashh on Tue, 02 Aug 2016 5:45 +0000

Thanks for the info, I will stick with what I have been using, cheers :)
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby ashh on Tue, 02 Aug 2016 5:51 +0000

Oh, one more question...
I know they sell 'engine wash' or 'engine flush' products off the shelf for 'washing' the internals of an engine, but there's no way I'd ever entertain the idea of putting anything but oil through my engine... It's rather expensive running the good oil through to flush out as much as the old oil as possible, so would it be ok to get a very cheap engine oil to pour through purely just to clean out the old oil, let it drain then fill up with the correct oil? I know your not supposed to mix different oils, but seeing as it's just being used as a flush, any remaining once mixed with the much larger quantity of new good oil would render any amount of cheaper oil to not be a problem? Thoughts?
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby Gulfstream8 on Tue, 02 Aug 2016 9:31 +0000

If the oil is comparable with your engine it's suppose to be compatible with other brands.

I think it was either Mobil or Castrol got into trouble in the states (awhile ago) saying you could not mix. This was Obviously a marketing stunt as all good oils will have on the side what spcifications and approvals they have like "ACEA A3/B3" or "API SN" and these can relate to detergent in the oil to what engine seals they are comparable with to shear load to actual durability tests and outright engine approvals etc (or maybe bribes to get oil approved :lol: ) but much easier just to use the oil companies Lube recommendation tool on their website --- so if they are the same specs the oil has to be compatible. Anyway you now find Mobil and Castrol state they can be mixed without the oil causing some chemical reaction ---- but it's preferable that you run one oil in service rather than mixing.

As for flushing I have found most of the top of the range oils from good companies contain very good detergent packages and you really should not have to flush as they are so good. It's a requirement (detergent package already in the oil) as they now know that this is part of the longevity of an engine. I'm sure if you look in through the oil filler cap on your engine you will see the top of the left hand bank cam chain and I'm willing to bet from the filler pipe down to the chain is spotless - if not I would ask some questions! The oil comes out black because it's doing its job as Piston engines are dirty beasts. Biggest tip I can give you is from Rolls Royce - "you buy clean oil kelp it clean" - so be like a surgeon changing the oil (super clean) and always drop it hot. You would be surprised at how careless some mechanics are and how much damage the smallest amount of dirt or sand can do inside your engine.

If you still want to flush - well a cheap oil won't have as good a detergent package as a good oil so if you really still want to do it you could look at doing an early one off change at 5k instead of the normal 10k. Or see if your preferred oil company does a long life oil (comparable with the 1GR-FE) but drop it at 10k instead of the 15k or 20k they can do due to high levels of detergent. Or do a service with Mobil 1 for 10k as I have never seen engines as clean internally on this product.

You are on the right track stay away from oil flushes or additives - there a waste of your hard earned money and can cause engine damage.
Last edited by Gulfstream8 on Wed, 03 Aug 2016 9:29 +0000, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: is this the correct guide crank shaft seal repair (1grfe

Postby ashh on Wed, 03 Aug 2016 6:09 +0000

Yeah, I wasn't going to run the engine with the cheap oil in it, just pour a bottle through it letting it drain straight back out to flush out as much dirty black oil as possible. As always good info, appreciate it.
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