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I have played around a fair bit with 1KD engine EGR on my Prado. The problem with this system is that in addition to monitoring the EGR valve position the ECU monitors mass air flow readings while the EGR valve is open. When the EGR valve is opened the ECU expects to see a drop in mass air flow readings due tot the fact that it is recycling exhaust gasses that have already passed through the MAF sensor. If it doesn't see this drop it logs a fault code.
The way I found is to completely blank the EGR source at the cylinder head and then connected the EGR to a hose that ran back to clean air from the air cleaner prior to the MAF sensor. This way it all works as Toyota intended, however instead of drawing exhaust crap it is just clean air. I set mine up this way a couple of years ago and probably 80000km ago with no problem.
I believe now if you are having your ECU reflashed for more power they are able to turn the EGR off or there is a company called Ozbush electronics who do a plug and play unit that deletes the EGR function for a couple of hundred bucks. Hope this helps someone.

Just did some reading on the oz bush unit, anybody else runnig one of these? They seem like a good thing maybe. Still waiting for the mob on Facebook to get back to me about their full egr delete kit cos they r out of stock.

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Who does the full delete kit TOYZX

Diesel smart performance products

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TOYZX wrote:Diesel smart performance products

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I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for diesel smart mate.

The 7mm hole works a treat and its bloody cheap.

Yeah I've had one in for a while but i have a feeling my egr cooler maybe leaking.

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TOYZX wrote:Yeah I've had one in for a while but i have a feeling my egr cooler maybe leaking.

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Good to see your all over it then.

TOYZX wrote:Yeah I've had one in for a while but i have a feeling my egr cooler maybe leaking.

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If you have the ever reliable, chep flow reduction plate, go ahead & bypass the egr cooler coolant hoses.
Not much going though it now.

Cool mite just do that, thanks fourby! Anyone tried taking the cooler out and plumbing in a line from the clean side of the air box to the bottom of the egr? So when the egr opens it draw fresh clean air. That way ya can block the egr port at the head and completely remove the cooler.

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You will have to get the air before it reaches the maf sensor as the engine looks for the drop in air flow when the EGR is operating

So if I tap directly into the lid of the airbox I should be all good? My only other concern is will the ecu be able to adjust for the air temperature difference now that there will be no hot air at all?!

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TOYZX wrote:Cool mite just do that, thanks fourby! Anyone tried taking the cooler out and plumbing in a line from the clean side of the air box to the bottom of the egr? So when the egr opens it draw fresh clean air. That way ya can block the egr port at the head and completely remove the cooler.

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Yeah plenty of guys have messed around some successfull in the end, some not so lucky.
Some now have 7mm plate.

TOYZX wrote:Cool mite just do that, thanks fourby! Anyone tried taking the cooler out and plumbing in a line from the clean side of the air box to the bottom of the egr? So when the egr opens it draw fresh clean air. That way ya can block the egr port at the head and completely remove the cooler.

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See my post top of this page.

Any chance of some pics of how ya did it on the prado?

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Hi Guys, we did a full clean of the air intake manifold,it was 70% blocked all the why through. top result in the end. fitted a blanking plate with a 7mm hole, we had no fault codes but the engine is making a whistling sound when its under load,starts at about 2000 revs.I think this is when the EGR valve starts. Has anyone had this problem or could it just be a vacuum hole somewhere.

Id say ya have a leak somewhere! I'm no d4d mechanic but I have fitted a few blanking plates now while doin a inlet clean with no issues.

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Okay thanks mate. do you think it could be in around the plate or a vacuum hose some where. We can not check where its coming from when as its only when under load. Maybe only can tell if we put it on a dino. I made the plate my self. It was ordered but didn't arrive. It was out of 1.2mm s/s with a 7mm hole. Do you think if the hole was slightly of center this could cause the whistle noise. We checked all vac hoses and everything seemed okay.

If ya plate is warped ya could have an issue. I made plate I put in mine, most people don't and have no problems but the ones I've fitted I put a gasket both sides of the plate.

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Dazza, maybe the whistle you hear is the turbo spooling up after cleaning all the gunk out?? Also the whistle could be an increased exhaust volume going to the turbo with the plate in, making the turbo spin up faster?? If so this is good because your engine is breathing now and no smoker's cough

Check the up pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. Should have 4 bolts and a gasket, I've forgotten one bolt and the gasket once and it made a hell of a noise under boost.