NewHilux.net

yea don this to my 08 model at 5,000km and do i every service as in check them but there are great with 32in tyers beautiful brakes now

Hi Guys, just to throw another, "adjustment" into the mix. I had the same problem as discussed in this forum, however upon further investigation and the advice from a "suspension" guy who new his stuff, my brakes are great, where also i don't have to continue adjusting them every few weeks. I have raised my Hilux by about 2 1/2 inches. The fix is in the rear proportionate valve adjuster on the rear diff needs to be lengthened by the same amount of height you have raised the car, in my case 2 1/2 inches. The adjuster is the long straight threaded rod with a round ring with rubber inserts that is bolted to the rear diff. I took mine off, cut it in the non threaded area and welded in a 2 1/2 inch addition. Then as advised by the "Suspension Guy" adjusted it to roughly where it was addig in the 2 1/2 inches, to fine tune the adjustment, the best way is to take the car onto a gravel road do about 10kms/hr then apply the brakes with enough pressure to just lock up the wheels. The right adjustment is when both front and back wheels lock up at the same time. This may take some time, as it did me, but the results are, no more brake problems.

Hey Mate seeing your from Perth can you name your suspension guy as i have been looking for someone that knows his stuff over here for years ! i keep meeting f--kwits

I know some people are putting bigger wheels and tyres on their Lux`s and still expecting the brakes to be as good as standard but I just did my 40,000k service which requires the brake fluid to be flushed and replaced for the first time – Well I found heaps of air in the back brakes and a substantial amount of air in the front callipers – And this is from standard.

Also did the 40k service on my mates and also found air in his brake lines from the factory.

All I can say is that the Lux pulls up a lot better now

Mine is brand new and they are terrible, will this work?

ls3tourer wrote:Mine is brand new and they are terrible, will this work?

Hello
Well you do have bigger wheels and tyres which would reduce the effectiveness of the standard brakes – But after bleeding the brakes on mine and my mates it certainly made a difference.

I adjusted my rear brakes today and it was certainly worth the effort.
My handbrake has gone from 9 clicks down to 5. Interestingly, the manual says between 7 and 9 clicks is correct for the handbrake adjustment.

It did take me awhile, as I couldn't find the rubber plugs that Brendon referred to in his post on the first page. Turns out mine have no rubber boots at all. Should I be concerned?

A pic of the brake drum for reference...

G'Day Fellas,

Just a quick note regarding a new brake upgrade we are just about to bring to the market.
It's the same upgrade as done on the TRD Hilux's with the 120 Series caliper and backing plate. It will feature a cross drilled and slotted disc and high performance pads.
All parts are new and this product shoutl be available in about 2 months. RRP will be $1200.

We will run a early bird group buy for $850, details very soon.

Cheers
Matt

Luxative wrote:
It did take me awhile, as I couldn't find the rubber plugs that Brendon referred to in his post on the first page. Turns out mine have no rubber boots at all. Should I be concerned?

Both sides have no rubber boots? They will help keep stuff from getting in there. By the looks its even missing the ones that you use to check for the meat on the pads also. better get some to help keep crap out. they shouldn't fallout so dunno how ur missing them all.

Thanks, Viper... Yep, all four are missing. Gaffa tape will do until I can get the proper ones.

Matt, will you have slotted only rotors as an option? I don't like the idea of cleaning out mud from all of the holes. Only issue being the 16 inch rims I'll have.

Luxative wrote:Matt, will you have slotted only rotors as an option? I don't like the idea of cleaning out mud from all of the holes. Only issue being the 16 inch rims I'll have.

Yes, slotted only discs will be an option, no problem.

16's should be no problem... Prado has 16's as standard on some models.


Cheers
Matt

Me Keen

Guys,

With the rear adjustment. You say, jack up the car and then adjust till you get slight drag. Wont the load sensing proportioning valve have no weight on it when the car is jacked up?

I thought that this valve pushed the brakes at the back in harder the further the tray is down so a heavy load and the brakes will work more? If so, isnt having the car jacked up for adjustment going to cause heaps of drag when the car is lowered back down and the LSPV gets some weight on it?

The service manual says to have a minimum of 0.6mm clearance.....

Has anyone had problems adjusting the brakes so they slightly drag before lowering the car? Brakes getting hot? bad drag etc?

Axeten
when adjusting rear brakes do so with car jacked up via the rear diff and put stands underneath as a safety
(not suspension hanging )
helpful hint, when adjusting shoes sometimes its easier to remove drum from opposite side your adjusting as dragging drum will hinder you when adjusting shoes
i find this helps because when i do adjustment i remove wheels and drums and inspect and clean the whole assembly

Drew

Dluxv6 wrote:Axeten
when adjusting rear brakes do so with car jacked up via the rear diff and put stands underneath as a safety
(not suspension hanging )
helpful hint, when adjusting shoes sometimes its easier to remove drum from opposite side your adjusting as dragging drum will hinder you when adjusting shoes
i find this helps because when i do adjustment i remove wheels and drums and inspect and clean the whole assembly

Drew

Isn't jacking the car up on the diff housing a big no no ?

felix wrote:

Dluxv6 wrote:Axeten
when adjusting rear brakes do so with car jacked up via the rear diff and put stands underneath as a safety
(not suspension hanging )
helpful hint, when adjusting shoes sometimes its easier to remove drum from opposite side your adjusting as dragging drum will hinder you when adjusting shoes
i find this helps because when i do adjustment i remove wheels and drums and inspect and clean the whole assembly

Drew

Isn't jacking the car up on the diff housing a big no no ?

Put the stands under the leaf springs where the 4 ubolts come through the retaining plate then it's not on the diff housing.

Cheers Troy

Dluxv6 wrote:Axeten
when adjusting rear brakes do so with car jacked up via the rear diff and put stands underneath as a safety
(not suspension hanging )
helpful hint, when adjusting shoes sometimes its easier to remove drum from opposite side your adjusting as dragging drum will hinder you when adjusting shoes
i find this helps because when i do adjustment i remove wheels and drums and inspect and clean the whole assembly

Drew

Ah yeah
Offcoarse..... Didnt think of that

Carry on

i am still in the process of trying to fix my cars braking issues. i fixed the front by getting bendix 4x4 pads and machining the rotors, they work excellent now. will replace the brake fluid when i get the chance i heard that helps too.

i think the drum setup is crap and functions very poorly.

so far i have
-machined my drums so that the surface area is like new and free from mud,
-replaced the shoes (with bendix)
-have done all the drum adjustments with the screwdriver in the little hole (as explained by sr5lux)
-correctly tension the cables.

i am happy that i have achieved the correct tension, i have around 4-5 clicks. my handbrake sort of works after doing all of that but not very well at all - it still can't hold the car when launching the boat so i have to turn the engine off and rely on the gearbox.

any more ideas how to increase the performance of the existing drum brakes???
are there any realistic mod ideas for holding the car when parked, so that i don't need to rely on the gearbox or chock the wheels???

also, i machined the front rotors myself and it was dead easy to do, i was just wondering if anyone knew what the minimum thickness limits were???

Sounds like you have a real issue with the rears, I wouldn't worried about performance as much as getting them to function at least how the factory intended.

As far as the front rotors are concerned, they usually cast the minimum thickness figure on the disc somewhere.
Can't say for sure about the hiluxes.

Hey All,

ON the Brakes issue, i had my Lux serviced yesterday and had the Front and Rears fully machined and re-done after the Bendix 4x4 pads only lasted just over 12 months, I found that the Bendix 4x4 Pads take far too long to heat up,

So ive gone to Bendix Ultimates, with a complete brake lines being Bled and Flushed, so i collected the Lux this morning, and Whoa what a hell of a Difference that all made !

The proportioning valve has been adjusted properly and the ULTIMATES are by far the Best pads ive used so far.

Id reccomend to anyone to at least try the Ultimate Pads !

Cheers

Daz