Central locking for tailgate - Mod

Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby Richard on Tue, 23 Jun 2009 9:48 +0000

That would be nice Steve, thanks.

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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby Steve9R on Mon, 10 Aug 2009 2:46 +0000

Thought I'd better update this actually, cause ive had quite a few PM's about it..

Image

these are the same window locks i used (only 2 though) to hold the bolts in place..

I removed the bolt and replaced with a long bolt that i drill through the end and use a piece of wire between the bolt and the electric motor attachment..
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby rosco01 on Thu, 08 Oct 2009 3:08 +0000

Thanks again Steve,
picked up the associated needs today and will commence to tackle the project tomorrow....

Just one question - there'll be more, I'm sure....

How do we remove the plastic covers over the door entries - scuff plates - I think they are called.... mine seem to be pushed down and clipped on - but I've broken things like this simply by prying them up before......
I intend to run spliced leads from the "b" pillar and back along the driver's side, across the back and into the tailgate through the existing conduit used for the tail-gate brake lamp.......

When you fitted your solenoid units - did you try to fit them to the existing support panels within the tail-gate or fit additional brackets to something else in there?
If I'm not wrong - you appear to have fitted the solenoids to the inner tailgate sheet (two black screw heads visible) and made adaptor brackets fitted to the support panels to hold the window lock slide bearings onto...... I think this is what may be shown in your pic..... one side done - the other yet to be fitted.....?

I am also about to wire up the waeco power pack for our fridge - I believe I should fit a Redarc isolation switch for this.... when I eventually fit an auxiliary battery for "add ons"...... UHF, caravan and fridge... I believe it better to run these direct from a fused panel from an auxiliary battery ..... it will leave the main batt for engine and vehicle systems only......

My apologies for being a nuisance in this.... it will be the first project I have attempted on our little truck..... not frightened to have a go - it's just that this is a new truck..... old Holdens and just about anything else, I'm usually the first to invent some modification...... but this is new ground to me...... don't know much about modern circuits and how they may affect other systems......

frats,
Rosco
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby Steve9R on Thu, 08 Oct 2009 4:12 +0000

rosco01 wrote:Thanks again Steve,
picked up the associated needs today and will commence to tackle the project tomorrow....

Just one question - there'll be more, I'm sure....

How do we remove the plastic covers over the door entries - scuff plates - I think they are called.... mine seem to be pushed down and clipped on - but I've broken things like this simply by prying them up before......


yep they simply pry off.. if you want to remove that B-pillar plastic panel then you need to remove the seatbelt bolt from the bottom first, then they'll pry off from the B-pillar (they have about 2 or 3 plastic white clips holding them only)..

rosco01 wrote:I intend to run spliced leads from the "b" pillar and back along the driver's side, across the back and into the tailgate through the existing conduit used for the tail-gate brake lamp.......

When you fitted your solenoid units - did you try to fit them to the existing support panels within the tail-gate or fit additional brackets to something else in there?


I think from memory and i'd have to open it up to check it now, but i think the passenger side one fitted onto the existing support panel, and i used a flat piece of steel on the drivers side one to mount the solenoid to as well as the lock, to get it in the right position.. (looking at that first pic.. yes i did)..

rosco01 wrote:If I'm not wrong - you appear to have fitted the solenoids to the inner tailgate sheet (two black screw heads visible) and made adaptor brackets fitted to the support panels to hold the window lock slide bearings onto...... I think this is what may be shown in your pic..... one side done - the other yet to be fitted.....?


nah.. i think they are both fitted in that pic.. if you want i can open it up and take more detailed photos tonight for you ?

rosco01 wrote:I am also about to wire up the waeco power pack for our fridge - I believe I should fit a Redarc isolation switch for this.... when I eventually fit an auxiliary battery for "add ons"...... UHF, caravan and fridge... I believe it better to run these direct from a fused panel from an auxiliary battery ..... it will leave the main batt for engine and vehicle systems only......


Absolutely.. always run your fridge off an aux battery as that way you wont flatten your primary battery.. i run a seperate fuse box for my aux battery (mine is in the tub) as well as seperate fuse blocks for the primary batt..

rosco01 wrote:My apologies for being a nuisance in this.... it will be the first project I have attempted on our little truck..... not frightened to have a go - it's just that this is a new truck..... old Holdens and just about anything else, I'm usually the first to invent some modification...... but this is new ground to me...... don't know much about modern circuits and how they may affect other systems......


No problems at all.. thats what this site is for... the only other tips I'd give for this mod would be that once you've drilled your holes in the tub, use some of your touch-up paint on the exposed metal, and TAKE YOUR TIME.. measure thrice, drill once.. ;)

if you need help just yell..

Cheers
Steve
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby rosco01 on Fri, 09 Oct 2009 6:05 +0000

thanks again Steve,
about to head out into the shed and start work.....
I had a bit of a go at opening the tailgate with the ARB canopy locked yesterday...... sadly, I feel with just a little bit more effort (I didn't go beyond the point when the glass panel began to flex) I believe access to the rear is pretty much done and dusted...... thank goodness you have come up with this mod.... I was going to try and find a front door handle with lock but I am certain your modification is a "secure" way of stopping that tail-gate opening...... I would have liked ARB to have fitted something a little more serious on their window locks.... anyone who has one probably understands......

I know it's a case of "break and enter".... but some of us will have some pretty expensive stuff in there from time to time.... and insurance won't cover the nuisance and loss/need whilst up in the scrub walking around the wilderness returning to find some scum has broken in and taken your beer....... (sic)..

Thanks again, Steve ... let you know this evening how I went...

frats,
Rosco
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby Steve9R on Fri, 09 Oct 2009 12:59 +0000

good luck with it.. its not hard to do.. just take your time..

the only other tip i can think of at the moment, is that you mount the bolts etc in the tailgate first, then line up where to drill on the outer panels, always use small drill bits first make sure it all lines up before attacking with the big ones..

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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby rodw on Fri, 09 Oct 2009 8:07 +0000

Rosco, with the Dual battery, Olcolone is the man. He has posted up some very informative posts. He talks about using B&S 2 cable (which I guess is similar diameter to the factory battery cables) run to the back from the dual battery. He said he liked to push it through some 12mm clear plastic tube and feed it through the chassis rail. I am going to do this soon. Also, check out what he has to say on the "Alternator" thread. Don't get the Redarc, go with a Rannox given you are going to be towing a trailer. There is no doubt the Hilux's voltage is regulated too low to fully charge an AUX battery that is deeply discharged from time to time.

Here is the alternator thread:
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4102&hilit=alternator
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby rosco01 on Sat, 10 Oct 2009 7:47 +0000

thanks steve and rod,
currently on day two of my tailgate project...
Steve, I purchased those window locks and have decided not to go ahead with them....
If you don't mind my suggestion - I found that a stainless padbolt and bracket can be modified to fit snugly up against the end of the tailgate - the bolt can be drilled and a handle from a plastic bucket makes the long trip to the rh/s.... the l/hs doesn't have the same issue with getting tangled up with the existing wire rod to the r/hs tailgate latch..... I believe this is why you have chosen to make them different.
I purchased two remote door locks for $20 each and am currently in the process of fitting them.
I am contemplating going just a little different to you on the body mount holes - I intend to fit plates, held in place under the existing upper tail-light bolt - I will also drill a small centre locating hole to align the plate.
The plate will be made from one of those window lock plates but bent into a "U" - it will hide and protect the extending locking rod (stainless) .
I opted to go this way as I have some dumb fisted (myself included) people who may unknowingly push the remote button and not see the rod protruding..... this will damage the tail-light....
I also intend to fit a small power diode inside the vehicle (where it splices into the existing loom at the "B" pillar)..... I want to do this so that the loom cannot be opened up externally and power applied to unlock the vehicle's doors.......

Thanks Rod - yes, most certainly will look further into the isolator... I was impressed with the Redarc one... but haven't taken a peek at the Rannox one yet...

Yes indeed, I note the voltage is too low to fully charge a 100 AH deep cycle if it gets below the threshold....
I'm still looking at this - it may very well end up that we do not use an Anderson plug (the van will be fitted with one as standard) .... I have purchased an Anderson plug for the tug - but that will all come when I get into the next project.....

Just by the bye..... I intend to fit the fridge slide to my l/hs rear - I intend this due to access whilst on the road..... I have the Waeco power unit but am undecided as to where I will locate it..... any recommendations (forum in general.. please)......

I have made a modification to my fridge already (Waeco CF 50 AC )..... I made a plate with a Tigged chain link and fitted it under the handle screws ...
The Waeco SLD 060 fridge slide comes with a bolt held in place with an "R" clip to lock the slide assembly in the closed position.
I intend to run the chain from the handle plate down to the holes in both base and slide - then use a padlock through the existing holes in the two halves of the slide along with the chain link to secure it to the vehicle - the fridge slide cannot be removed without it extending to reveal the anchor bolts to the vehicle......

Thanks again Steve and Rod.... still beavering away out in the shed.... I find it takes me a lot of time to do things these days..... I have crashed and burned too many times as a kid when doing projects....
I still make mistakes, but usually can recover without destroying the project....

Will post some pix when I have finished this project if anyone may be interested.....

I would seriously suggest people with the ARB canopy to consider this project..... security is very easily by-passed if you are relying on just the supplied window locks in the upper tailgate..... this project won't stop people smashing windows and getting in for small stuff..... but it won't let a great bloody fridge go out without a serious bit of grief in the process.....

Basically, this project is to stop the "spy and break in" scum of this earth..... I still firmly believe the "best" security device is a great bloody Doberman pincer...... but we don't have one of those.......

frats,
Rosco
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby Steve9R on Sat, 10 Oct 2009 8:44 +0000

Sounds good rosco.. yes im definately interested in your method.. I did mine almost 12 months ago now, and you're right, if you unlock the truck and dont open any doors but only open the tailgate it will auto-re-lock and the bolts come out.. and if you dont know when you go to close the tailgate you could damage your tail lights.. touch wood this hasnt happened yet !..

Always good to look at improvements to my original design though ;).. post up pics when you're done..

Cheers
Steve
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby rosco01 on Mon, 26 Oct 2009 9:18 +0000

Finally Steve,
we're back from a trip away... and I've managed to break into the loom - I'm looking for the leads which run to the central locking on the passenger side within the loom - I can find the blue lead and also a green and yellow one.....

I ran out of time before getting away and didn't have the project finished - it's all there - but not electrically connected - that's where I'm up to....

I also included some "detents" in order that the bolts didn't freely move out or in when not under power.....
I did this for the time being by simply fitting a cable clamp - and using the rounded bolt as a lug - I drilled two stainless self tappers into the mount plate and these hold this cable clamp in position - both in the locked and unlocked ends of the motor stroke.....

I'll post up more tonight - it took me ages to get the wiring through the existing conduit from the rear brake lamp and up into the cabin ( where the existing rubber grommet comes through from midway under the cabin) I've managed to keep it all sacri-sanct and should go undetected......
I have also fitted a small power diode at the supply end so that cabin security can not be by-passed simply by connecting power to the tail-gate operating lead.....

frats,
Rosco
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby Steve9R on Thu, 05 Nov 2009 2:04 +0000

rosco01 wrote:Finally Steve,
we're back from a trip away... and I've managed to break into the loom - I'm looking for the leads which run to the central locking on the passenger side within the loom - I can find the blue lead and also a green and yellow one.....


as McSumway stated on page 1..
McSumWay wrote:You can also connect at the fuse box under the steering wheel.

There are two large black loom plugs - on the left plug the blue and the blue/yellow wire (which are side by side in the centre of the plug) are the central locking wires.

You will need to get the polarity right or the lock button will unlock whatever you are activating and vice versa.


rosco01 wrote:I ran out of time before getting away and didn't have the project finished - it's all there - but not electrically connected - that's where I'm up to....

I also included some "detents" in order that the bolts didn't freely move out or in when not under power.....
I did this for the time being by simply fitting a cable clamp - and using the rounded bolt as a lug - I drilled two stainless self tappers into the mount plate and these hold this cable clamp in position - both in the locked and unlocked ends of the motor stroke.....


thats why i use strong wire (coathanger wire would do).. then drill a hole through the end of the bolt and feed the wire through and connect to the central locking unit.. that way the bolt wont move unless locked or unlocked..

rosco01 wrote:I'll post up more tonight - it took me ages to get the wiring through the existing conduit from the rear brake lamp and up into the cabin ( where the existing rubber grommet comes through from midway under the cabin) I've managed to keep it all sacri-sanct and should go undetected......
I have also fitted a small power diode at the supply end so that cabin security can not be by-passed simply by connecting power to the tail-gate operating lead.....

frats,
Rosco


Cheers.. waiting on the pics..

Steve
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby rosco01 on Fri, 06 Nov 2009 5:19 +0000

All done Steve - except the pix - I can't shrink them on this machine and my laptop is having a 'tizz"....... will try again tonight - along with some of the fridge slide project I finally finished yesterday (with a number of mods - so that it sits as far over on the left hand side as possible) - got it so that the slide comes out almost against the tailgate opening....
The slide I used is a Waeco SLD 060..... they're pretty big.. and it looked as if I was going to have to fit it inboard of the l/hs wheel arch...... some small mods and it's in.... works a treat.... along with some moderate security....... will write something up if there hasn't been a subject on it already.....

Hopefully tonight if I can get my pic shrinker laptop out of its cunundrum.....

frats,
Rosco
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby Steve9R on Fri, 06 Nov 2009 5:51 +0000

sounds good mate.. will wait on the pics ;)
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby rosco01 on Sat, 07 Nov 2009 5:36 +0000

Finally got the laptop out of its tizz..... now just waiting for photobucket to upload them....

From these pix you can see that I have used a stainless padbolt and its base in my efforts to fit this project....
I did purchase those window locks but found that i could have used them on the house instead and settled for the padbolt fit instead......
All my parts came from Bunnings - except for the door remotes - they were from a local auto outelt - a generic brand ......
I might suggest that anyone going ahead with this to use ones with "detents" in them - that is they physically are held in place in both the "out" and "in" positions - mine don't and they will rattle in/out if a detent is not fitted .....
They will also "bounce" back from the locked position if they hit anything..... I had to fabricate some detents.... we'll get to that soon - pretty easily done.....

This pic is of the padbolt mounted to a fabricated bracket - these then get fitted to the tail-gate brace........

Image

I cut off the end of the bolt and ground two flats on the shaft - then drilled through to fit the pushrod wire.....
I have tried to drill stainless before - the grade used in these bolts is hard - but I have had harder.... didn't "burn" a drill bit after making through with both bolts.... just worked out using progressively larger bits.... the smallest one did all the work - and I kept it lubricated with a mix of ATF and kero.....

Ended up using thick wire coat-hanger - on one side (the long one..... r/hs) and the fitted pushrod which came with my door solenoids for the other (l/hs)......

I made up some mounting brackets to mount the padbolts onto and self-tappered them into the ends of the tailgate support brace.....

Image

The motor mount for the r/hs had to be mounted so as not to interfere with the factory pushrod to the r/hs lock....
I managed to get the new pushrod to pass over where Toyota fit the anti-rattle pad - and it works a treat....

Image

The motor mount for the l/hs was fitted to the l/hs tailgate support brace - as too was the mount for the padbolt.... the l/hs is a lot easier/shorter to do - but so too is criticality for getting it correct...... readers thinking of this project would probably be better having a go at the r/hs first...... it's a bit more forgiving.....

I drilled through the end of the tailgate and into the body exactly as Steve did - no problems - take out both tail-lamp assemblies first and measure it all so as not to foul anything inside - or the bolts which hold the tail-lamp assembly in place....... this is the padbolt in its "unlocked" resting position.

Image

I fitted both padbolts first before marking the holes in the body - there is a "sweet" spot there where you end up going through a backing plate...... it gives the hole a bit more "meat" for the pushrod to get held by.

After fitting the padbolts and sending them out - it dawned on me that if they somehow managed to be left in the "locked" position - then the tailgate was slammed closed..... it would smash the tail-lights..... that took me back a day... and came up with another modification.

I used the window lock jambs (what the window locks pushed into) as mounts - I drilled through where the tail-lamp assembly bolt was and used that as a mount - then when I had it exactly where I wanted the hole to be, drilled a small hole through the jamb and into the body - then fitted another bolt, flat & split washers and the nut - all held in with loctite 262......

The next problem was that the padbolts (after cutting them to length) now "just" came to the body hole - but not through it..... the window jamb was only about 3mm to hang on to - so I Tigged some 2 mm thick flat washers to the jamb... result is that the bolt now is held locked by about 6 mm of "base"..... it also serves to prevent anyone slipping a blade etc along the body and pushing the bolt back out into the tailgate......

Image

Image

Image

To get "detents" I simply fitted some clothes line clamps and mounted them onto the pushrods so that the "U" bolt passed over the mount brackets. With them fitted to the pushrods, I marked where I wanted the movements to "sit" and drilled/fitted some stainless "domed" head self tappers...... result is that the cable clamps can pass over with a bit of resistance then "hold" in place until called back to the other end of the stroke....... and are held there respecively......
I may yet go back in and try to invent an overcentre arrangement.... but for now, I have bigger fish to fry with the mounting of the fridge slide (next project..... watch this space (somewhere on the forum....) ) .......

Having it all working mechanically, I now moved to the electrics..... I decided to go along the l/hs and spent a full day fitting my two leads into the loom - all secured and "out of view".... I found it possible to gain entry to the cabin through the large grommet/seal beneath the front passenger seat.....

After getting those footwell covers and "B" pillar cover off, I broke open the loom and found a plethora of wires - none of which resembled the colours I was looking for from the above posts...... I ended up spending quite some time using a multi meter and the remote buttons to find the leads which operated the remote door solenoid/motor of the rear l/hs door...

I decided it probably worth while to fit a small power diode (IN4001) to the "dis-arm" lead - to prevent 12v from being supplied from my "new" wires in the loom - this was fitted inside the vehicle so as to maintain "integrity" of the security of the vehicle's doors......

Finally connecting up - it all works a treat.... thanks Steve - without your post and kind words, I would not have attempted this project.... I would probably have gone the other way and found/fabricated a rear tailgate handle with a lock (another blasted key to fit onto the keyring.....)

Any questions answered .... and full credit to Steve... for the project...

frats,
Rosco
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby Steve9R on Sun, 08 Nov 2009 5:31 +0000

very good mate.. Im pleased you got it all working..

Yes, I understand why you've done the washer arrangement.. as you can tell, my bolts are long and if they are out (mind you we've had it in now for over 12 months and havent had a problem touch wood..), but the potential to slam the back closed with exposed bolts does exist..

I like your power diode solution too, but ive got my wires routed through the grommit in the mid section of the rear cab, so there is really only 10cm of cable, which you cant get to, and wouldnt be able to cut, let alone join and jumper..

very good solutions though.. Im pleased someone else found the time to do it.. its definately a worthwhile mod.. (even more so now ).....

leichlux wrote:oh and FYI - it took the locksmith 5 seconds per lock to unlock the hard cover using what looked like a needle and a small blade. he said "you know not to keep anything valuable in here right?".... I said "I DO NOW!"


Cheers
Steve
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby rosco01 on Sun, 08 Nov 2009 5:42 +0000

Thanks Steve,
all dibs to your good self for this project .....

I firmly believe the best application of locks is the mechanical one - nothing has ever been as effective as a bolted door.....
there isn't any way in without substantial damage/effort if the bolts cannot be removed......

except....

the hinges on the other side - I think we're safe......?

frats,
Rosco

ps - fridge won't go through broken side windows - only the rear window will permit this - and with my "other" project, just finished (see fridge slide) - it'll take a bit of effort to "walk off" with it using the "five finger discount" method......
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby Alby on Sun, 08 Nov 2009 5:59 +0000

Nice work, well done. Hopefully should keep the thieves at bay.
On the internet you can be anything you want. It is strange that so many people choose to be stupid!
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby MauricioMontenegro on Fri, 08 Jan 2010 9:44 +0000

Rosco:

Please could you put pictures from where you take the cable to activate the solenoids?
Great Job!!
Mauro
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby rosco01 on Fri, 08 Jan 2010 7:10 +0000

Hi Mauro,
sorry - in all the rush to get those scuff plates back in place - I didn't shoot any film of that part of the project.
I'm not sure it will be the same with yours, but in mine - I had to remove both front and rear door scuff plates - the lower seat belt anchor on the B pillar and prise open the B pillar cover - this exposed the wiring into the rear door - I used a multi-meter to locate the operating wires to tap into from there.
Spliced them in and fitted a small power diode to prevent release of the doors if my wiring was discovered and power applied externally.
At the end of the day, it all went back into place without any detection and has functioned perfectly ever since.
I would suggest the anchor plates be fitted to prevent accidental damage to the rear tail-lights if closed with the pushrods extended.
I also note that unless one of the front doors is opened when disarming - it will re-arm.... hence my suggestion to fit anchor plates for retain the pushrods..... not the body...

Be careful when you go into the loom - there is seatbelt pre-tensioner wiring in the B pillar.... you'll need to work on only the two rear door actuating wires - nothing else....

Let me know if I can help more...

all cudos to Steve for this project... I just meddled with it a bit...

frats,
Rosco
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Re: New Mod - Central locking for tailgate

Postby Steve9R on Mon, 01 Mar 2010 7:42 +0000

MauricioMontenegro wrote:Rosco:

Please could you put pictures from where you take the cable to activate the solenoids?
Great Job!!


hey mate.. see here : viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2717#p32982

there are the two wires in the b-Pillar to splice into..

Cheers
Steve
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