NewHilux.net

by **07luxyTD** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 9:06 +0000

Doing the steering dampner on my 79 cruiser and can not get the tapers to break

. Ive tried loading them up with a bar and hitting the thread (with a nut on the thread), hitting either side of the housing with 2 hammers. driving wedges under them, soaking with penetrene. The tie rods ont he lux were never that hard to get apart. Next option is probly heat the housing and have another go :roll:

I know you can get a tool but unless its hydraulic i dunno if it will be able to produce enough force to break it. Any one with some other tricks?

by **cmilton54** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 11:37 +0000

Hi
07luxyTD

When you have your wedges under and tight, maybe hit the nut under pressure that might work.
Air chiesel on wedges maybe.
Charlie

by **jimmi** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 12:19 +0000

try these, supercheap auto has em

or
using 2 hammers (normally a sledge hammer with short handles) and you need to shock the taper loose, so not the thread or nut, just the cast piece, hit it HARD.

by **07luxyTD** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 1:26 +0000

Thanks fellas but where they are 2 hammers is not an option. Ive tried the wedges and hit with hammer. I might pick up on of those press typre tools and see if i can get it on them. Will have to get a photo of where they are positioned.

by **oggy** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 1:38 +0000

I hear kyle's good at breaking things.......perhaps he could have a crack at it for you ross :lol:

by **07luxyTD** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 1:43 +0000

oggy wrote:I hear kyle's good at breaking things.......perhaps he could have a crack at it for you ross

Just hope he breaks the right thing

I put down the hammer after i started bending brackets

by **oggy** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 1:48 +0000

You need a thicker crowbar and a bigger flogging stick....and put a bit more muscle into it whipper snapper :lol:

by **kyle300exc** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 2:16 +0000

by **jimmi** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 2:23 +0000

oggy wrote:You need a thicker crowbar and a bigger flogging stick....and put a bit more muscle into it whipper snapper

x2 get a bigger hammer n hit it proper

or get a 2 jaw puller pre-load it then hit it

or wurth brand freeze release

by **07luxyTD** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 2:52 +0000

Freeze and release forgot all bout thatt stuff, think i might have some freeze your nuts off in the shed. Also got reminded by lachlan at ultimate bout the fork style wedges

by **oggy** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 4:30 +0000

Ross you do realize there is a reason why so many Arab rebels mount anti aircraft guns to cruisers ..... There not meant to come a part at the hands of an apprentice :lol:

by **mack** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 6:52 +0000

spray,loosen the nut,flog the f out of the side of it, when you think it wont budge get angry and give it a bit more- it will budge.- use a gympie hammer-small sledge hammer(google it)

by **07luxyTD** on Sat, 06 Jul 2013 7:37 +0000

my tradesman could get it out, except the gas axe is his best freind :roll:

Mack I dunno if I can hit it any harder, can't get into it with a lumpy and the drag links are to flexible and keep bending

by **Alby** on Sun, 07 Jul 2013 5:50 +0000

Ross on Lcool there is a post from OutbackMK about it and he bought a divider from Supacrap to do it

by **07luxyTD** on Sun, 07 Jul 2013 10:14 +0000

Hey Alby would you please be able to post the link? I had a look on there but the search functions is no where as handy as NHF

by **Alby** on Sun, 07 Jul 2013 1:18 +0000

07luxyTD wrote:Hey Alby would you please be able to post the link? I had a look on there but the search functions is no where as handy as NHF

Ross the thread is called 2 inch lift and 33's
Extract as follows;
Sorry for the late post, it was in my bunch of tips and traps.
Used a tie rod end puller, move the wheel onto full lock and you can just get the clamp in put a fair bit of pressure on it then gave the side of the joint a tap with the heavy hammer, went of like a gunshot.
Also need a rattle gun on front shock as japs had it too tight.
Also undo the 12mm bolt holding the abs sensor on the front so it doesn't get stretched, undo stabiliser bar then use a bottle jack to force the wishbone down further so the spring will just pop in and out without compression.
Rear do one side at a time so the brake lines and abs doesn't get stretched.
May need a bit of pipe the move the axle enough to pop the center bolt in.
80nm for U bolts.
Allow an extra twenty minutes for passenger side as you will need to remove exhaust to get shackle out. If greasable buy a right angle grease nipple its 3/8 i think not the little ones.
Make sure you don't overtighten the rear shackle bolts or you will spoil the flex. Upper and lower bushes are different I think its 49 nm for rear shackle bolts. (have them all written down on some cardboard in the shed.)
If you need a snapshot of the tool send me a pm and I will grab a picture of the one I used (supercrap auto special)
Sorry its late but working to a deadline for my trip to the Simo next week and its p**sing down rain in Sydney.
_________________
Brian LC76 GXL, Scangauge II, E-Cruise control, ARB Bar HR Cargo Barrier, Chipit/EGT RedBack Exhaust Drifta drawers12000lb Winch, Dual Battery

by **07luxyTD** on Sun, 07 Jul 2013 4:00 +0000

Thanks Ably I'll drop in to super crap tomorrow and see what they have. Does a steering damper have to being before wheel alignment? Heading out to condoblin BNS next weekend which is bout 600km and won't a wheel alignment before I go

by **chivers95** on Sun, 14 Jul 2013 6:00 +0000

i had to pull the stearing idler am off a mates 84 patrol and ended up using a bearing puller and a lots of heating

by **07luxyTD** on Sun, 14 Jul 2013 4:06 +0000

Should have updated this

Went to supercheap and bought a fork style splitter. Flogged the crap out of it with a 4 pound lumpy for 5 mins before the cross arm side busted out. From there i had to unbolt the bracket off the chassis. Sat damper on ground with bracket got a sledge hammer and hit it as hard as i could 3-4 times before the bugger finally went off with a bang :twisted: