***EDIT -Not on this forum much anymore (sold the lux) so sorry if i don't reply.*** i get PMs still
This thread is about how to FIX your A.D.D, not replace but fix, very cheap!
ATT mods: I thought I would start a new thread to get as much attention from everyone as possible. Even if you don’t have the flashing light it’s something to look out for. Open yours up and check, just one more thing to add to the list of checking before a long trip.
This method will cost about $25 depending what you have at home. Issue:
Flashing 4wd light on dash, sleave in front diff not engaging front drive shafts. Reason:
Most likely water in your A.D.D (automatic disconnecting differential aka differential vacuum actuator assembly in the repair manual). This is the part on the front diff of the SR5’s that disconnects the drive shafts from the diff centre. Ps it’s not a vacuum it has a breather hose and that’s it, only god knows why Toyota does these things!Known repair method:
Replace the whole actuator which is $630ish from Toyota and about $500ish from the wreckers.
1. The basics screw drivers, pliers, hammer, and so on.
2. Soldering iron (optional)
3. Dremel or similar.. u can manage without one but jeez they make work easier!
4. Air compressor, not a must but does help.
5. Cleaning solvent. Prepsol/ wax and grease/ alcohol, whatever.Items needed:
1. New motor RE-385 see below for link, $16 delivered from Sydney
2. Conductive grease, $10 from Jaycar
3. Gasket paste/ seal, supercheap $not sure 5-15?
Conductive grease - Jaycar
Ok so as you may have gathered I had the flashing light, so I jumped on this thread http://www.newhilux.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=15032
, which told me I had water in my A.D.D. So up went the car, opened my A.D.D and low and behold rust, corrosion, and water. Great…. There goes $600 odd dollars. No chance was I spending that money on it!
The only major issue with mine was the motor was rusted to sh!t house (and judging everyone else’s pictures they had the same issue). So why replace the whole thing for one small part?
NOTE: I did not take the whole A.D.D off the diff. If you do this you will have to drain the diff and for no reason. All I did was undo the 5 screws that hold the plastic housing onto the A.D.D
Also note I’ve got the Ultimate suspension smart lift. So I’m not sure if you need to drop your diff to get access to it. If someone can confirm that, that would be great.
After 3 days of researching for an exact replacement at Jaycar and other stores I had no luck. Then I finally found one on the net. I wasn’t sure if it had the right torque or not but $16 delivered from Sydney was a small price to pay. Here’s the link and details of the new motor.
Motor link: http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-motors/2389737/?searchTerm=238-9737&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E2C5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D424552267573743D3233382D393733372677633D4E4F4E4526
For people not in Australia, you can check out RS components, there in the UK. Or try and find a supplier near you.
Motor Specs: http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0032/0900766b800320ab.pdf
2 days later the motor came. Pulled the old A.D.D apart and gave whole housing a detailed cleaning. I used a wire wheel on the dremel to clean the alloy part of the housing (diff part) and prepsol (wax n grease) for the plastic part. I also used the dremel to clean all the parts inside the plastic house to remove as much corrosion as possible. Then I gave it all a good blow out with the compressor.
All clean (this is where dremel makes life easier… best tool ever!)
Now there’s a small coupling piece on the shaft off the old motor that needed to be removed and put on the new one… it needs force. I put my old motor in the vice and put two flat head screwies on either side and pried the piece off.
I had to cut the tip off the shaft on the new motor to make it fit. Cut the shaft down to 6.25mm…don't cut 6.25mm off! cut it down too. Ref picture. DON’T stress if you’re a bit off, it won’t fit if it’s too long though. Again I used the cutting disc on the dremel. Now, the small coupling part off the old motor needs to be stuck on the new one with Loctite. It took me all night to realise that. I had it all back together and couldn’t realise why the motor just kept spinning. Just be careful not to get Loctite in the motor bearing (the part that the shaft spins on) or it could lock up.
New length, already cut down.
Now you can solder the new motor, I did, but it does work without it (just not sure how long it will last).
That’s basically it. Put it all back together; use the conductive grease on the metal strips in the housing (black goo). I also used gasket paste (brown goo) on the housing just to make it more water tight, you’ll see when you open it that the gasket that’s on there is sh!t house!. Don’t forget to put the breather house back on. (I’ve now extended mine also). You can also clean the terminals on the plug and housing, because why not lol.
Here are a few extra pictures, always helps.
I glued (Loctite) the coupling a bit too far out and it was hitting the plastic housing. I just pulled out the dremel again and took some plastic off where it was hitting. U can use a small file if you have this issue.
I hope I’ve mentioned everything, don’t hesitate to ask, comment, or debate im all ears.