NewHilux.net

Torque the pipes

32 if new, 35nm if re use. Keep it clean around the fuel system or wreck your injectors.

There's lots of tech tips on FB https://m.facebook.com/Toyotatechtalk

Pipes for euro 4



Prevention


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EGR-Blanking ... 2ca7b6fe5c

Some other part numbers & prices.



$13 each?????


Lol......

Clean is very nice.



Much nicer than the job.

fourby4diesel wrote:Vacum while scraping ports, if soot gets under valves, you will have no compression & will not start.
After cleaning, do comp test to make sure you have compression or you will be stripping & taking head off.
Fun stuff, but you should be right, vacuum!!!!

Thanks for the info mate. Firstly, we have no compression tester, so going to make things hard! Quite concerned about this soot/gunk falling into where the valves are. Vaccum seems to be doing 'ok' but can still see little bits dropping down as we scrape it. Really cant afford for the truck to be off the road as its his work ute.
Is there any other methods to doing this? Or should we just leave the head ports alone and get this done professionally later on. Doesnt really solve anything as there is still restriction in the intake system if its still clogged up!!
Slightly frustrated and not sure which direction to take now.

brighty4wd wrote:

fourby4diesel wrote:Vacum while scraping ports, if soot gets under valves, you will have no compression & will not start.
After cleaning, do comp test to make sure you have compression or you will be stripping & taking head off.
Fun stuff, but you should be right, vacuum!!!!

Thanks for the info mate. Firstly, we have no compression tester, so going to make things hard! Quite concerned about this soot/gunk falling into where the valves are. Vaccum seems to be doing 'ok' but can still see little bits dropping down as we scrape it. Really cant afford for the truck to be off the road as its his work ute.
Is there any other methods to doing this? Or should we just leave the head ports alone and get this done professionally later on. Doesnt really solve anything as there is still restriction in the intake system if its still clogged up!!
Slightly frustrated and not sure which direction to take now.

Ok, so all cleaned with extreme care and vaccuming at the same time to remove crud being scraped out. Got it all together and now won't start. Beginning to think there is crap that's gotten dislodged and ended up underneath the valves. Have fuel at the injectors, but just not starting.
Where to from here?? Strip it all back down and start removing the head?
Is it going to do any damage buy turning it over for 20-30secs in the hope it will kick over??

Mine took a few goes to get it goin after was all apart. Go back ovee the job and make sure ya didn't miss anything, we all know there is plenty of hoses and wires that can be forgotten!

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brighty4wd wrote:

brighty4wd wrote:

fourby4diesel wrote:Vacum while scraping ports, if soot gets under valves, you will have no compression & will not start.
After cleaning, do comp test to make sure you have compression or you will be stripping & taking head off.
Fun stuff, but you should be right, vacuum!!!!

Thanks for the info mate. Firstly, we have no compression tester, so going to make things hard! Quite concerned about this soot/gunk falling into where the valves are. Vaccum seems to be doing 'ok' but can still see little bits dropping down as we scrape it. Really cant afford for the truck to be off the road as its his work ute.
Is there any other methods to doing this? Or should we just leave the head ports alone and get this done professionally later on. Doesnt really solve anything as there is still restriction in the intake system if its still clogged up!!
Slightly frustrated and not sure which direction to take now.

Ok, so all cleaned with extreme care and vaccuming at the same time to remove crud being scraped out. Got it all together and now won't start. Beginning to think there is crap that's gotten dislodged and ended up underneath the valves. Have fuel at the injectors, but just not starting.
Where to from here?? Strip it all back down and start removing the head?
Is it going to do any damage buy turning it over for 20-30secs in the hope it will kick over??

Put your battery's on charge.
Get a mate to pump fuel while you crank.
Keep crancking, 15 seconds on then 1 minute rest. It might stomp the soot eventually.
Cross your fingers.
If your not sure email me your number & I will call you.
Pradotechtalk@hotmail.com

Blackdelux wrote:as i take off 1st gear in auto or loaded up up hill just sounds more like a turbo sound than did before.
i have lock up torque converter so at low revs 2k and then putting throttle on

We just did a full clean on the weekend, added a blanking plate with 7mm hole and took it for a drive, there is a whistle sound when under load at about 2k revs and it wasnt coming from the turbo.

fourby4diesel wrote:

brighty4wd wrote:

brighty4wd wrote:
Thanks for the info mate. Firstly, we have no compression tester, so going to make things hard! Quite concerned about this soot/gunk falling into where the valves are. Vaccum seems to be doing 'ok' but can still see little bits dropping down as we scrape it. Really cant afford for the truck to be off the road as its his work ute.
Is there any other methods to doing this? Or should we just leave the head ports alone and get this done professionally later on. Doesnt really solve anything as there is still restriction in the intake system if its still clogged up!!
Slightly frustrated and not sure which direction to take now.

Ok, so all cleaned with extreme care and vaccuming at the same time to remove crud being scraped out. Got it all together and now won't start. Beginning to think there is crap that's gotten dislodged and ended up underneath the valves. Have fuel at the injectors, but just not starting.
Where to from here?? Strip it all back down and start removing the head?
Is it going to do any damage buy turning it over for 20-30secs in the hope it will kick over??

Put your battery's on charge.
Get a mate to pump fuel while you crank.
Keep crancking, 15 seconds on then 1 minute rest. It might stomp the soot eventually.
Cross your fingers.
If your not sure email me your number & I will call you.
Pradotechtalk@hotmail.com

All good guys...got the old girl up and running after a bit of a stressful time trying to problem solve a starting issue. Ended up being a dud starter motor.. slotted a new one in and kicked over first time. All in all happy ending. See Dazza77's post just above as it was his truck we were working on.... still got the whistling/screaming noise to work on now.
Thanks all.

Dazza, the whistle is your turbo spinning up most likely. The blanking plate improves the gas flow to the turbo=more/faster spin=boost!

I had a go at mine this weekend and what a job!
Pulled off the egr, heat exchanger and the intake manifold. Took about 8 hours start to finish.

Mine is a 2013 with 110,000. Not as bad as i was expecting/hoping but it was still worth doing. probably about 30% blocked around the elbow at the egr valve.

A few tips for anyone else having a go..
-I imagine if you have a temper then this is not the job for you. as alot of the bolts etc are tough to get too

-I left my fuel filter, secondary filter and oil filter sill on the vehicle when i did mine, but if i were to do it all again it would probably take them all off to give me a bit more room to swing a spanner

-The crows foot wrench is a MUST. I set off with the intention of doing the job with a set of pipe spanners.. but you cant get access to the injector line nuts on the fuel rail without the crows foot wrench.
HOT TIP: Dont get your crows foot from toyota: there about $75 OR you get get a whole set for the same price at trade tools.

-The hardest thing about this job is remembering what bolt goes where. I got 2 A3 sheets of paper and layed them on the ground for Stage 1 & stage 2. Following the original steps on this post (which are a massive help!) i would write on the paper the step number and then put the bolts next to that step.. so when i comes to re-assembly i knew which bolts go with each step! Saved a massive headache.

- Mine was hard to start after the job was done. I had to bleed out some air of the injector lines and then it fired.

-Get yourself a white permanent marker and mark all the vacuum lines and clips. And label the fuel injection lines 1-4. It helps bigtime

Im sure this has been covered but hopefully someone who is going to have a go will find something helpful from this
Goodluck!

Did mine, 2011 SR5 with 60K on the clock, it was also about 30% block.
Few tips:
-Screw the bolts back into there location as you go so not to mix them up or loose them.
-Use the priming button on the fuel filter to get the car restarted (crank it over and re prime until it starts)
-Recheck all vacuum lines after a test drive, I found the vacuum line on top of my MAP filter had blown off causing the car to drive like shit (over boost+loss of power), required a cable tie to secure it.

Something i also noted is that the exhaust gas temperature has drop quick alot since the clean and installing the plate.

is everyone using torque wrenches to put it all back together to make sure right torques?

Yes, a 3/8 inch torque wrench, the injector lines and intake manifold need to be torqued correctly and most of the bolts screw into cast aluminium and could be easily stripped

My one last week

Did mine a couple of weeks ago the reference back to this thread was invaluable. Was very surprised that the 7mm blanking plate was already installed as mine was an ex mines vehicle

edevil wrote:Did mine a couple of weeks ago the reference back to this thread was invaluable. Was very surprised that the 7mm blanking plate was already installed as mine was an ex mines vehicle

Wink. Everybody is using them. Well, some are not. Who wants to go through that again.
The Roo.

Must be doing a good job as my hilux- Mrs actually is an 07 with 170k on it and no where near the sludge as most of the pics. Have added a catch can now

Did my entire intake clean-out yesterday. Oh my aching back.
I had already done the EGR valve a few years ago, which was moderately choked up, but nowhere near as bad as some I've seen on this thread.
This time I removed the inlet manifold, fearing that after 270,000 Kms, it would be pretty bad.
I need not have worried, just a light coating of powdery carbon dust, cleaned it up, but it was a bit of a waste of time really. Only positive is knowing that everything is clean. There was a small amount of wet build-up in the EGR valve which was easily removed with a quick scrape with a narrow paint scraper.
I don't have a blanking plate or catch-can, so the only explanation I can think of for having a relatively clean intake after 270,000 Kms is that the car has been driven on the open road most of it's life so maybe the EGR valve was closed for a lot of the time.





Also did the timing belt and tensioner, and the main drive belt and tensioner and all the idler pulleys too.
Basically everything on the front of the engine except the water pump. Expensive job in terms of parts, that took me all day. The cam belt wasn't due for another 30K or so, but there's been a slight knocking noise from the front lately which I thought might be a tensioner so I just bit the bullet and gave the old girl a birthday.

I bought a single 3/8 drive 17mm crows foot spanner from a shop in Adelaide, just a cheap KC Tools one for $12 as my good set is in storage with all my other tools. It got me out of trouble OK but bloody annoying as there is no detent groove inside the square drive to stop it falling off the socket extension all the time. Get what you pay for I guess.