Installing rugged x sliders on SR5

Installing rugged x sliders on SR5

Postby Eastmelbanddown on Mon, 25 Jan 2021 5:35 +0000

When I first started looking into this I couldn’t find any information on it, so I thought I’d do a quick write up to help people out who may be considering doing the same.

NOTE: I’m aware many people don’t rate the factory sliders and think they’re weak, and for the price of brand new ones ($1400 apparently) compared to Phat Bars etc. I’d go the aftermarket option any day. However, I scored a pair of factory sliders for $200, and they are not going to get flogged as it’s a daily drive / weekend camper. They will be perfectly fit for my requirements, and I like the look, so for me this makes sense. Others may be in the same boat... this post is for them :)

The Toyota sliders mount up using factory chassis holes, and a combination of big bolts and little bolts. I’ll talk more about the little bolts further down.

Mount 1 - 2 big bolts run through the front chassis crossmember. These bolts are longer than the factory bolts, and you also need to insert the 2 spacers between the inside of the mount and the chassis cross member so that the mount grips nicely. Very simple mount.

Mount 2 - the bracket is in 2 parts which connect up with 2 little bolts (IMO a weak point). One big bolt goes through the chassis rail, and another 2 small bolts go into holes in the chassis rail.

Mount 3 - this uses 3 small bolts on the chassis rail. On the passenger side there is a bracket bolted on. Carefully remove the bolt first and then when fitting the slider you can re use this bolt.

Now these smaller bolts... these little f$@#&% are the worst part. Only 3 of these little bolts actually go into a thread on the chassis (centre mounts and pass side rear where an existing bracket is bolted on). The rest are bare holes, and you need to get a nut inside the chassis. Painful, but absolutely doable. Took about 5 minutes per hole of screwing around with different bars, sockets, uni joints etc. to get them in.

I also used nuts that have like a washer head with teeth, so that they bite into the chassis from the inside and act like a crush washer. If I had my time again, I’d probably stick some crush washers to the nuts (tape or glue) so that I could get them inside... I’d also put some loctite on the bolts, anyway... coulda woulda shoulda didn’t. She’ll be right.

On mount 2, one of the small bolts goes into a thread, and the second one you need to use a long spanner or socket or make up a contraption to get the nut inside and lined up with the hole. There’s an access hole nearby (it’s not that close, but it works, just need something long to get it in there).

On mount 3, on the driver side all 3 holes are bare, but there is a couple of large access holes nearby. On the pass side one of the bolt holes is threaded (see note above about the bracket), and the other 2 you need to get a nut in there.

I have successfully installed all of these bolts, and I don’t think it was that difficult. I certainly think reading this will give anyone a massive head start. I’m not that handy or experienced with cars, so if I can do it others can too with a bit of help.

Hope this helps someone!
Eastmelbanddown
 
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