outtheredoingit85 wrote:Myralga wrote:Ok I have 265/75R16 on a negative 12 offset.
I also have a 2” lift.
I have removed the front mud guards but I still have scrubbing issues (this is the neg 12 causing this primarily on the turn)
Turn a little it scrubs on slight bounce turn a lot it misses
straight usually ok.
Hoping that upper a arms will resolve this.
So my recommendation is definitely go smaller then 32”
Maybe 30-30.5”
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Hey Myralga, I have the same scrubbing problem but it’s on the vehicle mount. I have removed the mud guards. I’m running 265/70R17 on a 17x9 -12offset. Put a heavier spring in the factory shocks but just added winch and it’s got worse. Was now looking at 10 or 25mm strut spacer, UCA, diff drop to try to resolve the issue. Was wondering how you went with your upper control arm. Did you see much difference.
Cheers.
Different tires and rims are going to be slightly different for everyone.
Going up will help but not on the bounce.
You gotta get the geometry right.
I have not done anything yet as I still have the factory rims and tires and only put the big ones on when we go play. (Which isn’t often.)
Personally I hate strut spacers. They can be dangerous as your strut is not getting any more travel and more likely to bottom the strut out then hit the bump stop. Therefore premature failure of strut or worst case an accident. Don’t mean to scare just know the horror stories.
UCA- my understanding is they allow the change of the geometry allowing you to move the tire forward more while keeping the alignment accurate.
As for diff drops the cheap kits don’t do anything for alignment or movement of the A-arms. All they do and might I add some rather poorly, is improve the CV joint angle.
Now the expensive diff drop kits are a whole other ball game.
I would love a team member from Ultimate Suspension to chime in here and correct me if I’m wrong.
But the proper diff drop kits are expensive for a reason. They replace not space. Your talking sub frame assemblies major components and drive line spacing to move the entire diff and the assemblies it’s attached to down and forward to create more room and improve cv angle.
That’s why a complete good quality 2” inch lift kit costs 2-2.5k
But jump up to 3”+ your talking 5k+ and that’s not including it all getting engineered.
Hope this helps.
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