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Hey boys, just wondering, i have bought a set of rims at 17x9 with a -12 offset and am wondering what size tire i would be able to fit without lift (stock sr5 2018) . i dont no if i can trust the tire blokes and would like a few options
im wanting the maxiumum i can without having to cut

also if i get a 2" lift what would be my options?

thanks guys.

Ok I have 265/75R16 on a negative 12 offset.
I also have a 2” lift.
I have removed the front mud guards but I still have scrubbing issues (this is the neg 12 causing this primarily on the turn)
Turn a little it scrubs on slight bounce turn a lot it misses
straight usually ok.
Hoping that upper a arms will resolve this.
So my recommendation is definitely go smaller then 32”
Maybe 30-30.5”


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Standard is 265/60/18? Which is just bigger than 30.5". The equivalent size is 265/65/17 which is slightly bigger and the next size up is 265/70/17 which is over an inch bigger again at 31.6". As Myralga says, the -12 is probably the problem which would stop you going much bigger than 265/65/17. Might have to get a different offset rim?

When I go 4x4ing I chuck on my 265/70/R17 muddies (0 offset). I calved the mudguard edges flat and I only get light scrubbing occasionally, usually when I'm turning hard on uneven ground.
No lift.

Thread moved to tyres & wheels
title edited for clarity

Myralga wrote:Ok I have 265/75R16 on a negative 12 offset.
I also have a 2” lift.
I have removed the front mud guards but I still have scrubbing issues (this is the neg 12 causing this primarily on the turn)
Turn a little it scrubs on slight bounce turn a lot it misses
straight usually ok.
Hoping that upper a arms will resolve this.
So my recommendation is definitely go smaller then 32”
Maybe 30-30.5”


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Hey Myralga, I have the same scrubbing problem but it’s on the vehicle mount. I have removed the mud guards. I’m running 265/70R17 on a 17x9 -12offset. Put a heavier spring in the factory shocks but just added winch and it’s got worse. Was now looking at 10 or 25mm strut spacer, UCA, diff drop to try to resolve the issue. Was wondering how you went with your upper control arm. Did you see much difference.

Cheers.

outtheredoingit85 wrote:

Myralga wrote:Ok I have 265/75R16 on a negative 12 offset.
I also have a 2” lift.
I have removed the front mud guards but I still have scrubbing issues (this is the neg 12 causing this primarily on the turn)
Turn a little it scrubs on slight bounce turn a lot it misses
straight usually ok.
Hoping that upper a arms will resolve this.
So my recommendation is definitely go smaller then 32”
Maybe 30-30.5”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Myralga, I have the same scrubbing problem but it’s on the vehicle mount. I have removed the mud guards. I’m running 265/70R17 on a 17x9 -12offset. Put a heavier spring in the factory shocks but just added winch and it’s got worse. Was now looking at 10 or 25mm strut spacer, UCA, diff drop to try to resolve the issue. Was wondering how you went with your upper control arm. Did you see much difference.

Cheers.

Different tires and rims are going to be slightly different for everyone.
Going up will help but not on the bounce.
You gotta get the geometry right.
I have not done anything yet as I still have the factory rims and tires and only put the big ones on when we go play. (Which isn’t often.)
Personally I hate strut spacers. They can be dangerous as your strut is not getting any more travel and more likely to bottom the strut out then hit the bump stop. Therefore premature failure of strut or worst case an accident. Don’t mean to scare just know the horror stories.
UCA- my understanding is they allow the change of the geometry allowing you to move the tire forward more while keeping the alignment accurate.
As for diff drops the cheap kits don’t do anything for alignment or movement of the A-arms. All they do and might I add some rather poorly, is improve the CV joint angle.
Now the expensive diff drop kits are a whole other ball game.
I would love a team member from Ultimate Suspension to chime in here and correct me if I’m wrong.
But the proper diff drop kits are expensive for a reason. They replace not space. Your talking sub frame assemblies major components and drive line spacing to move the entire diff and the assemblies it’s attached to down and forward to create more room and improve cv angle.

That’s why a complete good quality 2” inch lift kit costs 2-2.5k
But jump up to 3”+ your talking 5k+ and that’s not including it all getting engineered.

Hope this helps.


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I am looking for replacing stock Dueler H/T tires with new MT KM3 tires (got quoted LT tires here in the EU for 160 EU each).

However, I'd need to replace the rims as well - current 18" wheels will be left for the winter (we have worse winters in the north of Europe). Got suggested steel rims 17-6/139.7 ET-10 8J.

Do you see any problems with these wheels?

Can I go with 265/70 or should I stick to the manual-suggested 265/65? Do you expect any rubbing?

The SR5 is stock (only has a dual battery setup with Optima + ARB battery tray and RedArc BCDC, under the bonnet installation), and in the future I'd be putting a 2" lift kit (OME or Ironman - depends on the offer from the local dealers).

I'm running 17x7 ET4 with 265/70/17 plus a 2" lift at the front and UCAs and I still get rubbing if I'm braking to a junction and turning slightly with someone on the passenger seat. Its better since I took off the mudflaps and took a rubber mallet to the thin piece of metal that hangs down at the back of the wheel arch. I'll try and take a photo of what I'm talking about but I discovered that was the source of the rubbing issue by putting on some paper masking tape and replicating the scenario, then checking where the tape had been rubbed. Wouldn't want to run much wider or different offset.

Wouldn't those 17x6 et-10 be about 1mm further out passed the arch than me although inner clearance would be better.



This offset calculator might be useful Offset Calculator

et-10 would be 14mm further out than et4

True if they were the same width but he was talking about a 6” wheel width and mine is 7”.

Dan, I think you read the wheel width wrong. 6/139.7 stands for the bolt pattern, what actually matters was the ET-10 8J notation, i.e. width is 8" with a negative offset of -10, wheel size is 17".

Yep, you’re right!

-12 17x9 XD wheels with 265/70 KO2
Bilstein 5100 suspension with 2" lift in the front.