NewHilux.net

Hi guy's can anyone provide me with the service Manual/instructions for the automatic transmission on my SR5 Hilux.
Want to change the fluid as i do alot of towing.

WS fluid. Do a complete flush. A drain and refill is a waste of time.
Nothing else to do service wise.
Fit an external trans cooler bypassing the radiator is advised.

I use LubeGard complete fluid now. Handles temperature a lot better. As above fit an aux cooler in Series with the radiator, after the radiator. You can get kits from Wholesale Automatics.

Thanks guys, but do you have the service manual ? i believe its not as easy as just draining the fluid and re-filling.

James.d wrote:Thanks guys, but do you have the service manual ? i believe its not as easy as just draining the fluid and re-filling.

That is correct.
WS oil is actually a lifetime oil and not supposed to be changed.
If you don't have the correct equipment to do a flush or are unsure of what it entails, do not attempt to do it yourself.

WS is not a lifetime fluid especially if towing. I had an aux cooler fitted from near new and fitted a proper temperature gauge that measures where the fluid exits the gearbox, never got over 110degC. The WS was spent by 100,000km, just going from red to brown. My next door neighbour thought it was lifetime too in his 100 series, his was as black as licorice by 160,000km and these have a decent cooler. If you are towing you need to keep WS well below 120 (real temp not scan gauge temp) and change it probably every 80,000km. My 2011 service manual even tells you to replace it at 80,000km if towing or doing low speed 4x4 work.

I used LubeGard after talking to a few good transmission shops. From what I can tell they purposely use it in 200 Series and Ranger/BT50 as they are notoriously hard on transmission fluid. Or at least their drivers don’t understand how to use them correctly.

Actually WS is a lifetime oil with no replacement schedule...UNLESS heavily towing or using OUTSIDE manufacturers recommendations.


ATF-WS does not require any flushing or changing during the life of the vehicle; however, an inspection of the maintenance schedule of many Toyota vehicles reveals that there is a 100,000 km (60,000 miles) replacement interval if the vehicle is used on short trips, city driving, hauling heavy loads, trailer towing, or using a car-top hauler

Agree, that is something like what they say. BUT I cannot see how towing an empty box trailer or driving off-road is outside the recommended use for a 4x4 auto Hilux. I remember vividly, when my 2011 was a few hundred km old. I had already fitted the transmission temperature gauge but was still fabricating the bracket for the cooler. I towed my 300kg box trailer up my street and by the time I hit the top the gauge was showing over 120degC and climbing. I turned around and took the trailer home and finished fitting the cooler. Have never seen it go over 110 since, and the only time it wants to is if I drive in 4H on sand or try to tow over 1500kg in D at highway speeds. If you take a standard auto Hilux onto sand in 4H you'll destroy the transmission fluid pretty quickly, even with my aux cooler it'll rocket over 120deg before you can blink.

In summary I seriously doubt that ANY auto Hilux ever falls inside Toyota's definition of "normal" recommended use. If you tow anything, ever drive in city traffic or low speed 4x4 then the fluid should be replaced. My 2011 (A750F) service manual says REPLACE at 80,000km (not inspect) if used outside of Toyota's recommended use and then lists all the things not recommended which are all the reasons you'd buy one for in the first place! I personally do not think that any vehicle manufacturers tell the truth, the idea is to get servicing costs as low as possible (that they can advertise in order to look good), and then also give away "free standard servicing" for a certain period (again to entice buyers) where in reality you should not be going 12months, 20,000kM or whatever without an oil and filter change. Same as you shouldn't be going beyound 80,000kM without a transmission fluid change. Once the car has got out of its free period they do not care anymore.

HK1837 wrote:Once the car has got out of its free period they do not care anymore.

That is correct

I recently changed mine @ 60000kms. It was a very dark purple/brown, but that doesn't mean it was bad. it didn't smell burnt etc. BUT Toyota ATF-WS is pinkish red. So a big difference in colour.

1.Undo drain plug, measure what comes out. it'll be about 3 ltrs
2.Replace drain plug, undo fill plug and pump the same amount in that came out.
3.Replace fill plug, only needs to be finger tight.
4.Start engine, run through ALL the gears a couple of times whilst idling with foot on brake.Spend a couple of seconds in each gear, including the manual side of the transmission.

Turn off engine and repeat above steps. You'll do this about 3-4 times until such time that the fluid is almost like new.

Heres the fun part:
1.On your last drain, when your happy with the colour. Replace the drain plug with a new crush washer and add an extra 200-250ml of fluid.
2. You need the transmission fluid temp to be between 42-46 degrees C this can be read from a scan gauge but you are reading the pan temp, NOT the Torque convertor temp.
3. Once at temp and with the car in Park and IDLING, remove the check plug. Fluid will drain out. Once there is just a dribble coming out replace that check plug.

It needs to be at the correct temp, as the fluid will expand in the system and over flow through the check plug. Once it starts to just dribble out. You're done and correct levels are achieved.

I used two 4lt tins of Toyota ATF-WS and new crush washers. Vehicle is a 2015 Current shape/model/engine 2.8D SR5

Do yourself a favour and fit an inline filter with the cooler. The oil might last ages but the suspended contaminants from normal ware accelerates the ware rate of internal componants.
I run a Cooper WTF1 and change the filter every 20k.

I change mine every 10k some services it turns brownish and has a smell...

So now I just do it regardless, plus when it’s changed I notice a huge difference in how the auto behaves, a lot more crisp

I drive my lux hard though...

I’m also looking into fitting an external transmission cooler. I see there are vehicle specific ones and universal ones on the market and the prices are quite a bit of a difference. Any reason why the vehicle specific ones are 4-6 times more expensive? Thanks

Can someone tell me where the fill plug is exactly on the auto trans, I can see where the check plug is on the underside of the pan but I can find where the fill plug is exactly, I believe its on the drivers side?

I have taken a photo of what I think is the fill plug but it's a fair way back so unsure if it's for the transfer case. See link to picture. Is this the auto fill plug?

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B1AGv6DhEuCMY0

Cheers.

EDIT - All sorted, I found a good exploded diagram showing the fill plug location, turns out it was where I thought it was. I just installed a trans cooler so was topping up the fluid.

There was no mention of a filter in the auto trans servicing posts. I'm assuming the filter (if it has one) doesn't need cleaning/replacing, just the oil?

Philos wrote:There was no mention of a filter in the auto trans servicing posts. I'm assuming the filter (if it has one) doesn't need cleaning/replacing, just the oil?

The filter sits below the valve body, you can see it when you remove the pan, unsure if it needs servicing. Some people have installed inline filters externally as an after market item.

SLL

One more question.. Regarding doing an oil change.

On my old Volvo the drain/refill method was to drain the pan and then refill through the fill port, then disconnect the return line from the cooler/radiator where it connects to the auto trans unit and put a transparent tube over it and feed that into a drain bucket. Start the engine and let it idle while the trans oil pumps out until bubbles appear. Stop engine at this point. Refill the trans unit and repeat the process until the oil becomes clear. Note though, that after the first drain, the pan was taken off and the filter was cleaned and replaced with a new gasket.

This was a great and relatively easy method for draining and refill. Is there any reason why this method wouldn't work on a 2012 V6 auto Hilux?

Not really. Just be prepared with plenty of fluid and someone ready to turn the vehicle on/off. Its just much much easier with all of the genuine service kit but not impossible without it.