DPF active Vs forced regen
Posted: Fri, 03 Nov 2023 11:21 +0000
Ok so I am starting to think there's a deal between car manufacturers & fuel company's , lol
As with anything 4x4 nothing stays stock for long for anyone who goes bush anyway, all the usuals suspension, lift, wheels
bull/scrub bars etc. 3" DPF back exhaust and the list goes on....and I am definitely not alone in any way so I am sure there would be people with the same mods, and a lot more.
So I recently fitted a Safari Armax which then let to the intercooler being upgraded to a PDI, this was a notable improvement straight up, so I then decided it was time to either chip/tune or ECU reflash & dyno so I went that later.
So the tune dyno seemed good (tuner advised the DPF was at 100% and done a regen) & the new updated 2023 DPF regen software installed.
After a little while the fuel economy started getting real bad (worse than pre tune), used some apparently DPF safe intake cleaner (don't use it) this worked for a little while then bad, DPF full, and limp mode, the entire EGR & intake was pulled and cleaned, codes all cleared another DPF manual forced regen done, this returned the soot load to 6 from 182! , it was back !
With a Scanguage 3 I can see what's taking place now with soot load & DPF temp, so I know when its full, when its doing an active regen.
I travel 32km to work at 110kph for 90% of this, firstly I was surprised on how fast this gets up to 100% soot load, this triggers a operational burn which I could see on my SG3.
I was expecting this to be a quick process, but it seems here we go again.
As I have seen many people say the active regen is a quick process all done in 20-40 mins of driving at Hwy speeds, (seems reasonable, so I did 100ks at 110 (a lot of open roads in the west) only have the soot load go from 100 down to 70 and that's in 4th to have the revs up, the DPF max temp was 580C possibly not hot enough while traveling to burn off the soot load , not to mention the massive fuel used in this process.
I am not going to do this every 300ks and no one in their right mind would either. it seems to be in a perpetual cycle of regen in this state it would take a very long time to complete this burn and restore to what is an acceptable fuel consumption,
Some one may have an idea of what is happening here but here is what I think may be the case ????
Intake snorkel, PDI intercooler reduces EGT temps considerably (5000cc vs 11500cc) and a 3" DPF exhaust this flow is considerably improved and between the 3 not allowing the EGR to reach a high enough temp to complete the regen in a respectable time.
The initial plan is to retain the DPF due to the legal implications, but this is getting beyond a joke to achieve a low fuel consumption over people with far bigger vehicles with outstanding results
I completed a manual regen again to try to regain some economy back this went down to 6 and in 30ks back up to 30 !, now I am stuck between regens that take forever to complete (generated by the ECU) or doing forced (manual) burns, both do not seem sustainable, both use excessive fuel (mmm use more diesel to reduce emissions )
At this rate a DPF delete (and turned off in the ECU) seems the most cost effective solution.
Anyone who is more savvy in this particular science please help ???
As with anything 4x4 nothing stays stock for long for anyone who goes bush anyway, all the usuals suspension, lift, wheels
bull/scrub bars etc. 3" DPF back exhaust and the list goes on....and I am definitely not alone in any way so I am sure there would be people with the same mods, and a lot more.
So I recently fitted a Safari Armax which then let to the intercooler being upgraded to a PDI, this was a notable improvement straight up, so I then decided it was time to either chip/tune or ECU reflash & dyno so I went that later.
So the tune dyno seemed good (tuner advised the DPF was at 100% and done a regen) & the new updated 2023 DPF regen software installed.
After a little while the fuel economy started getting real bad (worse than pre tune), used some apparently DPF safe intake cleaner (don't use it) this worked for a little while then bad, DPF full, and limp mode, the entire EGR & intake was pulled and cleaned, codes all cleared another DPF manual forced regen done, this returned the soot load to 6 from 182! , it was back !
With a Scanguage 3 I can see what's taking place now with soot load & DPF temp, so I know when its full, when its doing an active regen.
I travel 32km to work at 110kph for 90% of this, firstly I was surprised on how fast this gets up to 100% soot load, this triggers a operational burn which I could see on my SG3.
I was expecting this to be a quick process, but it seems here we go again.
As I have seen many people say the active regen is a quick process all done in 20-40 mins of driving at Hwy speeds, (seems reasonable, so I did 100ks at 110 (a lot of open roads in the west) only have the soot load go from 100 down to 70 and that's in 4th to have the revs up, the DPF max temp was 580C possibly not hot enough while traveling to burn off the soot load , not to mention the massive fuel used in this process.
I am not going to do this every 300ks and no one in their right mind would either. it seems to be in a perpetual cycle of regen in this state it would take a very long time to complete this burn and restore to what is an acceptable fuel consumption,
Some one may have an idea of what is happening here but here is what I think may be the case ????
Intake snorkel, PDI intercooler reduces EGT temps considerably (5000cc vs 11500cc) and a 3" DPF exhaust this flow is considerably improved and between the 3 not allowing the EGR to reach a high enough temp to complete the regen in a respectable time.
The initial plan is to retain the DPF due to the legal implications, but this is getting beyond a joke to achieve a low fuel consumption over people with far bigger vehicles with outstanding results
I completed a manual regen again to try to regain some economy back this went down to 6 and in 30ks back up to 30 !, now I am stuck between regens that take forever to complete (generated by the ECU) or doing forced (manual) burns, both do not seem sustainable, both use excessive fuel (mmm use more diesel to reduce emissions )
At this rate a DPF delete (and turned off in the ECU) seems the most cost effective solution.
Anyone who is more savvy in this particular science please help ???