NewHilux.net

leeroy1 wrote:Wif you try to move it stops and goes back to normal revs,.

That's normal behaviour.

leeroy1 wrote:When mine comes on it revs around 4-500 rpm but will only do a burn at stand still , if you try to move it stops and goes back to normal revs, it seams to be doing it less than it used to when it was new.

Hi I have installed an LED indicator light in dash to tell me when it is doing a burn & yes it does do it when standing still provided the engine is up to normal operating temperature but when you start driving it continues from 60 k right up to 110 k till it is finished, the fifth injector gets a pulsed spray into the DPF the whole time until it completes & if you happen to be standing still the fifth injector stops injecting somewhere between 3 & 12 minutes before the high idle goes back to normal so you would assume that there is enough heat in the DPF at this time to complete its regen of course if you are driving you will not notice this unless you have an indicator light.
CHEERS.

thanks for clarifying , so did you just wire an LED / 560ohm resistor across the 5th injector? ive thought about doing the same?

i picked up a brand new sr just before xmas. it did it's first regen within it's first 50km. and has done most days since. it makes it very awkward to drive as well as overworks components in the clutch, gearbox and engine. i called the dealership to find out what it was. in the first place, they told me they didn't know what it was, but wasn't normal and to bring it in. i spent $50,000 on a new car so i didn't have to "bring it in" and be without it. i work from my car and have all of my tools in it and it's a massive inconvenience, not to mention the cost of lost earnings, not to have it for a day+. i've since found out that it's due to the dpf and "that's just what it does". so they're trying to tell me that a system designed to lower emissions is working fine when it elevates the rpm to 1300 and puts superheated exhaust gasses through the system and out the tailpipe? the owners manual says not to interrupt the system while it was doing this and to pull over to a safe place and let it finish. what!! it does it most days. i'm trying to work! if i get home and park in the driveway. i'd usually turn my car off. but if it's doing it's regen. iv'e got to leave it going for sometimes up to 15 minutes, therefore burning more fuel than i would have and pumping more emissions into the atmosphere which is allegedly what the whole thing was designed to reduce.

also the brakes started to squeel loudly since around 5000kms and are now starting to develop a shudder. i was told again to "bring it in" and they would machine the rotors. Is toyota for real?!! it has only just done 8000 k's. you can only machine the rotors 1-3 times before they'd need replacing, which i doubt would be covered by warranty.

I'm absolutely furious and upset and i regret trading in my 2013 sr for it.

Re-read the manual (p233), the instruction to pull over only relates to vehicles with a manual DPF Regen switch (which ours do not have) and then only in situations where the warning light turns on and a "FULL REGEN" message is displayed - neither of which happens during a normal regeneration operation.

If the car had to do a regeneration within 50 km of new then there is something wrong and Toyota should fix it. My experience is that the regeneration occurs, on average, around each 500-600 km in suburban driving and it has no impact of operation. It won't have any impact om the drive train, all it does is raise the idle slightly and that high-idle stops the moment the vehicle starts moving.

numberplate wrote:thanks for clarifying , so did you just wire an LED / 560ohm resistor across the 5th injector? ive thought about doing the same?

Hi numberplate yes that is what I did.
If you do a search DPF indicator I did a post a little while back with step by step instructions on how to install an LED indicator. CHEERS.

it was late and i couldn't remember exactly what the manual said. but in a nutshell it says that 'we realise you bought a brand new car for convenience and reliability. unfortunately, your car has been designed to be an inconvenience and we're sorry, but you will just have to deal with it'
i can't say for sure its the dpf as no lights or warnings come on, this is just what the toyota mechanic told me. but, almost every day since ive had it. the car idles up to around 1300 rpm while stationary. and yes it does turn off when you move. so when you go to take off from an intersection for example, you all of a sudden lose 400 odd rpm half way through your 'clutch-accelerator' sequence which causes the car to lurch etc while you readjust to it. You should try backing up to a trailer thats parked on an incline, or backing a trailer full stop. trying to make small smooth adjustments while fighting with your engine thats got a mind of its own is, after a while, infuriating.
I bought a hilux cause i like to go camping and fishing in the bush. im a tradie and work in all kinds of conditions. truth is i'm nervous about taking it into the bush, in case it decides to jump into limp mode, or sets the bush on fire. it's an absolute joke.

I've reversed, hooked trailers up, taken off from lights with my dpf performing a burn off and never had an issue. It's not 1000rpm difference...it's a few hundred. Control the car with the clutch.

TOYZX wrote:I hope for you guys sake the system is better than my wifes craptiva! When its doin a dfp burn you can literally see the fuel guage goin down. To me the whole thing seems like a load of BS! You have this filter that is stopping the soot from going out the exhaust then when it gets a little blocked the computer pumps more fuel into the engine to get the temps up to burn it out. Where does it end up at the end of the burn? Out the bloody exhaust! Not to mention pushing the extra fuel into the engine will only create more soot anyway so it probably put more in than it burns! Sounds like BS to me!

Every dpf runs an injector before the oxidising catalyst to generate the temp required to burn off soot in the dpf. The dpf core is a ceramic honeycomb with alternate tubes blocked at either end, so there is not direct flow to exhaust without being filtered. When a burn off is done it turns the heavy black soot that can block these tubes into a fine ash that remains in the dpf. The dpf needs to be removed and cleaned when the ash is too full. At no time do any of the diesel particulates exit the exhaust.

Ashlie is 35% urea 65% water mix that neutralises nitrates produced by diesels when injected into the exhaust. Dependant on the engine configuration it will produce either nitrates or particulates or a balance of both. Things that determine this include, combustion temp, combustion pressure, fuel injection pressure, quantity of inert gasses like her.

thanks for clarifying i didnt know exactly how the DPF worked. Toyota have a program of replacing the DPF rather than cleaning so i presume there is damage done to the unit when it fills up. I did see a European Youtube where a BMW mechanic was pressure washing a DPF to clean it out.
as far as i know Mitsu still use the old way of cleaning DPF ( no extra injector ) , never hear of them playing up but long term who knows ?

My understanding was that, although there are "single use" DPFs which eventually fill and need replacing or manual cleaning, with the regeneration type filters the process was intended to burn off the particulate matter and eject it via the exhaust. It would be handy to get a definitive answer from Toyota

Hi,

Is it ok to turn off the Hilux during a DPF cycle? My routine involves a burn off once a fortnight often to or from work. I often arrive at the destination with it still running. If I left it run I would have to wait another 10 minutes. In the times that I have turned off during the cycle it begins again the next time I drive.

Any issues with this?

mitchnewy wrote:Hi,

Is it ok to turn off the Hilux during a DPF cycle? My routine involves a burn off once a fortnight often to or from work. I often arrive at the destination with it still running. If I left it run I would have to wait another 10 minutes. In the times that I have turned off during the cycle it begins again the next time I drive.

Any issues with this?

I don't think so, but it's prefered to let it run. There is a snippet about it in the manual.

My car is 4 weeks old and the first DPF burn that I noticed (due to the engine idle revs increasing to around 1100 RPM) was at the 600 km mark. I let it finish while at high idle in the driveway.
Now I am at 1200 kms and for the last 3 mornings just after start, the engine revs jump up to 1100 RPM. I assume it's trying to do another burn. I have driven it for 15-20 mins after each time to work, but it seems to stop the burn when I start driving. By the time I get to the first traffic lights and slip it into neutral, the revs have dropped back to 900 RPM.
This has occurred 3 mornings in a row.

Is this normal, or do you need to let it do a burn while stationary?
Rich.

Rich wrote:My car is 4 weeks old and the first DPF burn that I noticed (due to the engine idle revs increasing to around 1100 RPM) was at the 600 km mark. I let it finish while at high idle in the driveway.
Now I am at 1200 kms and for the last 3 mornings just after start, the engine revs jump up to 1100 RPM. I assume it's trying to do another burn. I have driven it for 15-20 mins after each time to work, but it seems to stop the burn when I start driving. By the time I get to the first traffic lights and slip it into neutral, the revs have dropped back to 900 RPM.
This has occurred 3 mornings in a row.

Is this normal, or do you need to let it do a burn while stationary?
Rich.

Similar experience mate.. i've just ticked over 6000km in 6 months .. always not enough time to sit in the driveway at 5am for however long it takes... still haven't let it do a full burn..hopefully i won't cause any issues..will follow your post...definitely still a better feeling than staring at a blue oval on the steering wheel!


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Check that you haven't accidentally pressed the high idle button and your just mistaking the higher revs as a DPF burn.


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In my experience with my wifes captiva, ya just doin more harm than good letting it sit there idling to finish a burn. We were always told to go out and thrash the thing till it's finished. They need heaps of gas flow to push all the crap out properly. Different car all together I know but same principle, when the missus doesn't let it do a durn properly it'll keep doin one every few weeks but if we take it out and give it a good run when it's burning then it'll be months before it needs another.

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Threads merged
Please search using the "Search Here!" box. Too many DPF threads have already been created and merged
Thats a Yellow Card for a senior player ...

Also, I thought Dpf burns were to suppose to happen at high temperatures after the engine is warmed up - but every time now it has decided to do it first thing in the morning.

Rich wrote:My car is 4 weeks old and the first DPF burn that I noticed (due to the engine idle revs increasing to around 1100 RPM) was at the 600 km mark. I let it finish while at high idle in the driveway.
Now I am at 1200 kms and for the last 3 mornings just after start, the engine revs jump up to 1100 RPM. I assume it's trying to do another burn. I have driven it for 15-20 mins after each time to work, but it seems to stop the burn when I start driving. By the time I get to the first traffic lights and slip it into neutral, the revs have dropped back to 900 RPM.
This has occurred 3 mornings in a row.

Is this normal, or do you need to let it do a burn while stationary?
Rich.

Mine started to do the same at arount 7000km, i finish a drive and put it in neutral or park and idle goes up, does that for maybe 5 minutes then stops. It did that two days in a row then it didn't do it for another week or two then did it twice again so i guess it's normal. However my obd check app (torque) says my egr is blocked so i have ordered a cable to do a proper check with toyota techstream so will know in a week.