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Hey guys, been a while since I posted on here and really need to update my build thread. I've had a tray and aluminium canopy installed and built a false wall and floor for it. Now I'm in the process of sorting out the wiring for the electrics in the back, and am going to install a redarc 350W inverter. So the question I've got is:

I want to install the inverter behind the wall and run a short extension lead from the inverter to a standard 240v plug. This would mean that I leave the inverter on all the time and control the output by the wall plate. Is there any negatives to doing this?

Or do I just install the inverter on the outside and control it normally using the switch on the inverter itself?

Thanks in advance

I wouldn't leave it on all the time; not only is a electrical draw you don't need when you're not using it, it's also a safety issue - why have 240V in a moving vehicle when you don't need it to be there?

Redarc make a remote switch for their inverters, or, you could just put a switch in the 12V input feed.

Makes sense. So just run a relay to a switch to turn it on and off? And run the relay outlet to the input on the inverter?

I wouldn't use a relay on the input side of the inverter if you can avoid it. A 350W inverter can easily draw 30 amps if not higher occasionally. Most inverters should have a switch to control the power on the unit itself, even if it doesn't have a remote switch capability. Extend the switch wires to the console and control the inverter's power from there.

...whichever you do (me, I'd use the Redarc remote switch, but if you choose a relay or extend the original switch) - install a fuse!

Definitely mount the inverter where it can be accessed easily so you can plug your appliance directly into it. Do not extend any 240v (unless you are an electrician of corse) The less 240v in a vehicle the better.


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What do you plan to run off the inverter? Personally I'd avoid 240v completely. It would be cheaper and more practical to get 12v chargers for laptops and the like. A 350w inverter is good for around 1.2 amps at 230V so it won't run much of anything. And as kun26 said unless your just running an extension lead any wiring from the inverter to another outlet needs to be installed by a licensed electrician and will require cct protection and extra gear which will quickly add up in cost

The inverter will be used to charge a number of cameras, drones, laptops and assorted bits and pieces. My mate has a 350W Redarc and it works insanely quick, a lot faster than any of the USB plugs going around, so I'd have to disagree with the point that it won't run much of anything.

I have come around to the idea of not installing a 240V point though, will just mount the inverter somewhere accessible to use it. Thanks guys, much appreciated.

rjo89 wrote:The inverter will be used to charge a number of cameras, drones, laptops and assorted bits and pieces. My mate has a 350W Redarc and it works insanely quick, a lot faster than any of the USB plugs going around, so I'd have to disagree with the point that it won't run much of anything.

All those are DC charged devices. You just need to find the right charger and it will charge just as quick.

By using an inverter your going from DC > AC > DC and taking a hit on efficiency for each conversion.

flip9 wrote:

rjo89 wrote:The inverter will be used to charge a number of cameras, drones, laptops and assorted bits and pieces. My mate has a 350W Redarc and it works insanely quick, a lot faster than any of the USB plugs going around, so I'd have to disagree with the point that it won't run much of anything.

All those are DC charged devices. You just need to find the right charger and it will charge just as quick.

By using an inverter your going from DC > AC > DC and taking a hit on efficiency for each conversion.

spot on flip. If your using USB chargers for camera gear, makes sure you get the high current ones. Cheaper units are only 1A. For the rest of your gear, take the battery charger down to Jaycar to get the right volt/amp/plug sizes.
I currently charge two cameras, shark shield, plus host of AA, AAA & 18650 batteries for dive torches and camera strobe.


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If you're looking to charge multiple batteries, camera's etc definitely make use of the 240v and plug stuff in. Don't wire directly to battery, do it via a relay using ignition 12v as switch. Use a fuse on the mains feed, this way something can't be left on draining battery flat when off.

Not sure where the "Avoid 240v" remarks, current models come with 240v socket & inverter under drivers seat.

And it should never have been allowed in Australian cars. Many mine sites get it right and ban vehicles with inverters installed with permanent wiring. Used right they are good but we all know cars age and have accidents which could result in nasty voltages where they shouldn’t be.
I totally agree with others above, and use the outlet(s) on the inverter only and switch it off once finished. Use a fuse right at the battery that the inverter draws from. If it was me i’d also have an Anderson plug somewhere to remove 12V off the Inverter when not used as there have been deaths off the 12V side of inverters due to failures internally and you end up with 240V between the frame of the vehicle and the output circuit.

I also don’t think that legislation requires a licenced electrician to perform low voltage work on a motor vehicle. Most States as far as I know define Electrical Work on low and high voltage systems when they are part of an installation. Once they are portable or “plugged in” equipment, especially low voltage (50vac to 1000Vac), different Legislation and Standards apply. For example I don’t think you need to be a licenced eleco to do caravan LV wiring.

You definitely need to be licensed to install lv wiring in caravans and horsefloats and the like hk. Anything above 50v ac or 120v ripple free dc needs to be installed and tested by a licensed electrician, it only takes 30mA at 230v to kill you, unless you know what your doing it's not worth playing with, imagine if your home wired caravan gets a short to exposed metal and a kid gets a zap at a caravan park, even if they don't die your way up shit Creek

For the record I do not think people should do ANY low voltage wiring themselves unless they are properly trained and accredited, and by this I include playing with LV AC wiring in vehicles/vans/trailers, hence my statement about only using the outlets on the inverter and physically disconnecting the 12V supply when not in use. People do stupid things with mains fed (or mains voltage) stuff when they do not understand the consequences. Like the fools that put a 10A plug on their 15A caravan supply lead so they can then connect the caravan to a 10A outlet. Seems simple but a very stupid and dangerous thing to do.
I am a Licenced Eleco and Electrical Engineer BTW.

Avoid buying inverters from china on ebay and the like.
I believe there are still inverters being made that are not galvanicly isolated, meaning the negative of the 12 volt supply is common to the neutral output circuit. These inverters are illegal in Australia because if an appliance being used has a fault causing its frame to become live touching the appliance and car at the same time can be fatal, and has been on several occasions around the world.

A question for HK.

Not all that long ago it was very difficult if not impossible to use earth leakage cut outs on inverters and generators.
Has this situation been sorted out, or is it still a very real danger to use them with the same complacency that people approach household power with these days?

I have a Honda EU10i and would feel better using it if there was some sort of safety device protecting my family.

And thank you for stating your qualifications, too many armchair experts out there, good to know who you can pay attention to.

I'm also a sparky and did electronics as a trade before that, generators seem to be a confusing issue, even for alot of sparkies, there is a whole standard on the install and use of them. Your eu10 runs as a separated supply and relies on no return path through earth as protection.

So as long as it is not earthed there is minimal risk, and no safety device needed?

There's no MEN connection between the earth and neutral on small portable generators (may pay to check on cheaper ones, the Honda's dont) so there is no return path through the general mass of earth to the alternator windings. Doesn't matter if you earth the genny or not it won't make a difference unless your plugging it into a installation with an MEN in which case you don't want an earth stake ad it creates a parrellel return path. It should still have a circuit breaker to protect from overload faults, an RCD works by measuring the current out the active and back through the neutral, if there is a difference (generally 30mA) the RCD will trip.
Bit of a complex system to explain over a forum, if you went to read up on more get a copy of AS 3010

Thanks for that ranga, you have explained it well enough, i do have a small understanding of household power, but just enough to be dangerous, my formal training in AC circuits ended at the diodes in the alternator.
So nothing as far as safety(other than fusing)circuits.

As others have already said, an RCD requires two faults to operate. The earthed neutral (MEN) at the alternator (people call them generators) is the first fault. Having a separated supply with no MEN is really safer, but only if you use ONE plugged in device at a time. If you use more than one, especially if they are not double insulated. Hard to explain but you can get a fault to earth which becomes dangerous and is not detected.

You need the right type of RCD for inverters (which your Honda is), normal types don’t work properly.

Also as stated above AS3010 or there is WHS Codes of Practice with the same stuff. For me I always recommend a stand alone generator and/or inverter with a single double-insulated device plugged in. If you want multiple devices plugged in use a machine with an MEN and an on-board RCD. An earth stake attached to the machine frame will give you better protection again but will work adequately without it.