Fitting sub and amp

[Kris NT]

Hi all
For those that have or those that have the know how..
I am wanting to put in a sub and amp , can I power the amp off the head unit via remote wire
Or do I have to tap into the rear speakers ?
If it's the rear speakers do I tap into both sides ?

Cheers


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[TOYZX]

What do you mean by power the amp?? You can trigger the amp to turn on using the head units acc power or get acc power elsewhere. As for the audio side, your amp will need to have speaker level inputs or you will need an rca converter. Either way it's best to pick up both rear speaker outputs for a sub signal this way no music is missed. What head unit??

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[Kris NT]

What do you mean by power the amp?? You can trigger the amp to turn on using the head units acc power or get acc power elsewhere. As for the audio side, your amp will need to have speaker level inputs or you will need an rca converter. Either way it's best to pick up both rear speaker outputs for a sub signal this way no music is missed. What head unit??

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Sorry mate what I was asking "power the amp" ...is there a remote wire off the head unit so the amp powers up when the head unit is switched on.

I have the factory head unit. I won't be changing it..

I really only want the sub for a bit of bass from the back of the car.
I'm not into it mega loud


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[adamkberger]

There is a power antenna output from the head unit. You could use this but I'm not sure if it stays on when the head unit is on, or it's only on while the radio is on.

[fracturedranga]

Alot of new amps have the option to switch on automatically when audio ia recieved, so yoi dont need to run a remote wire. Thats how mines wired.

[Pizza]

Hi all
For those that have or those that have the know how..
I am wanting to put in a sub and amp , can I power the amp off the head unit via remote wire
Or do I have to tap into the rear speakers ?
If it's the rear speakers do I tap into both sides ?

Cheers


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I ran mine off the cigarette lighter for remote wire
And I tapped into one rear channel for the low level line converter
Hope that helps

[ThibenS]

Hi All,

Fiddling with the idea of making minimal upgrade to DG6's audio system, which honestly disappointing.
Any info on below is much appreciated:
1. Front Speaker Size, rerecorded replacement speakers, & what fits/what doesn't.
2. Rear Speaker Size, rerecorded replacement speakers, & what fits/what doesn't.
3. Does a slim powered sub woofer fits behind the rear seat?
4. Anyone done sound deadening for doors?
5. Basic Amplifier recommendation & installation location.
5. Any useful links & DIY guide?

Cheers.
Pat

[ih8ubarney]

I had a compact powered sub installed behind the back seat. It is a PIONEER TS-WX210A.
I think they piggybacked off the rear speaker for the imput
I didn't install it, but it looks like it only just fits depth wise.
Gives me the base I was looking for.
Didn't change any of the factory speakers,

[ThibenS]

I had a compact powered sub installed behind the back seat. It is a PIONEER TS-WX210A.
I think they piggybacked off the rear speaker for the imput
I didn't install it, but it looks like it only just fits depth wise.
Gives me the base I was looking for.
Didn't change any of the factory speakers,

Thanks for the info, might start off with a set of decent speakers & leave the rest out.
Sound deadening seems easy enough as DYI job too, so would get that done too.

Anyone knows what's the size of the speakers?

[TOYZX]

Deadening is easy, just time consuming. You'll be surprised how much more basz you'll hear once you do that. It may be enough for you.

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[RustyCat]

I'm no car audio expert, but I like to get hands on as much as possible. For what its worth This is what I did:
Sound deadening to all four doors plus a sheet behind rear seat where sub is located. Used Roadkill which was good to work with and a bit cheaper than others. Not a hard job just fiddly.

Installed Kicker Hideaway powered sub behind rear seat drivers side. Needed to adjust placement/reroute a couple of electrical plugs to allow sub to sit flat on floor. Secured it with straps via existing cross bracket so no drilling. Minor trim of behind seat liner needed but fits very well. Can just adjust amp controls with screwdriver and flashlight when rear seat installed. Ran power, bass remote and remote in wires under trim on drivers side and left and rught speaker inputs up passenger side. Only needs 15amps but powered it from battery anyway. Remote on connected to antenna wire on rear of OEM head unit. Tapped into RL & RR speaker channels via aftermarket output harness.

Installed Pioneer GM1004 micro amp using Aerpro aftermarket harness adapters. All mods to wiring were done to the aftermarket output harness so factory wiring remains intact. This little amp is fits under the centre console sortof under where the cupholders are. Powered off OEM head unit via Aerpro aftermarket harness.

Replaced rear speakers with Pioneer 6.5 coaxials. Kept factory wiring in rear doors. Modified factory plastic speaker spacers following 'speaker up grade thread' technique. Worked great.

Installed Pioneer D series 6.5 splits to front doors. Comes with plastic spacers so entire factory setup removed. Left factory wiring in place but ran new 18 guage from crossover through door to output harness. My plan was to place pioneer crossovers in cab for easier access and drier environment. However Pioneer speaker leads from crossover were quite short so instead modified two click top heavy plastic food containers to take each crossover. Siliconed speaker wires in, and mounted in one of the door voids. Each about the size of a deck of cards. This was a bit tedious. Because I sound deadened the internal side of the door ( eg replaced factory plastic sheeting with Roadkill) I could form a pocket for the plastic boxes. Threaded quick ties through and reinforced with duct tape.
during this journey to better sound, I also learned alot about how not to compress music onto a USB or device.
In my case I think some sound quality issues are from music that has been overly compressed.

i lost some skin. Made up some new swear words but sound is 100% better. Was quoted $2400 for all of the above by pro car audio guys. I am sure they would be way faster than me and maybe provided a better result. Not sure That I could tell sound wise though. All features work ( eg remote on for sub and amp, bass control). cost me about $1200 all up. I had a lot of fun doing it plus learned a lot about my hilux.

[2017workmate]

I have a 2017 workmate 2door and only 2 speakers and factory touch screen stereo that looks like a iPad. It has a balance control to fade to the back speakers but as there is none you get no sound. I would like to connect a amp and 2 more speakers to this output. I don't know if there is speaker wires for the back speaker outputs in the car I can get too or if there is not even wires plugged into the radio.if would be grateful for any help thanks

[RustyCat]

I would first add the amp and replace existing 'front' speakers. I am not sure where you add 2 additional coax speakers in the rear anyway.
I'd get a 4 channel amp. Try that first with new quality front speakers. That way if you want to add rears later, or more likely a small sub ( or two small subs!) behind seat you will be set.

As for speaker wires, they are not likely to be there in a 2door but I bet the harness behind the factory head unit is just missing the speaker wires. If installing an amp, you can pick up the rear speaker outputs after the amp. And dont be shy about running new speaker wires. Just gtab a few meters of 18 guage for each side. The factory stuff is pretty sketchy. Dead easy just fiddly through door flex.

The wiring in the dash freaked me out a bit. But as described previosly I used two aftermarket harnesses ( a M and a F) to connect the OEM head to amp to the speakers/controls, so I was more relaxed about splicing new wires into aftermarket loom knowing at most it would be a $20 mistake.

[2017workmate]

Thanks rustycat, I may have to go that root but was just trying to keep things simple and find speaker wires for now, don't wont to stuff with the car too much just yet as it only has 740km on it and has not been back for its 1st look over yet. Have already fitted a very loud truck horn towbar and a few other bits so I think they will jump when they test the horn. That male/female plugs idea sounds good, do you know what plugs would fit the radio so I don't need to pull it apart too look then again to fit them when they turn up.i had a look on the net for the plugs but didn't find a listing for a year just Toyota Hilux so don't know if it's for my year car or not. Thanks Rustycat for your help

[RustyCat]

Have alook at the thread called 'anyone done a speaker upgrade'
A couple of different options discussed there.
viewtopic.php?f=118&p=408260

One option is using an Aerpro APP0141 and APP0141F
Onenus a male and one is a female. One goes between head unit and amp input harness ( which is an ISO plug) and one goes between amp output and wiring loom to speakers/ steering controls etc).

Another option is an Aerpro CT10TY01. Which is a one piece T version which does the same thing.