Re: Gen 8 Dual Battery Kits and Setups
Posted: Fri, 09 Feb 2018 11:10 +0000
Max if your interested I will throw my 2 cents in here also.
I understand your frustrations on name brands I get that. But a lot of the knowledge in the background doesn’t make it out of the salespersons mouth because simply they don’t understand it. If they don’t have a auto elec trade or atleast mechanic and basic elec. then they are just a pretty face selling you a kit that they have no idea how it operates.
My experience comes from the heavy vehicle industry and I have worked for in the past and still have friends in arb now.
As for the N80 smart tech and canbus most people don’t wanna mess with it that includes me and I did my trade on the junk. Great when it works but don’t mess with it (this is my No1 pet hate of rangers every circuit has a fault sensor in it)
Anyway back to the message at hand.
Winching
I always set up to winch directly from the main start battery. Winches pull huge amps under heavy loads. And really the only device in your car capable of high amp/current output constantly is the alternator. If you set up onto a secondary battery you will basically drain it quicker then a dcdc charger can ever fill it (25 or 40 in 100+ going out it’s simple math) if your using something like an sbi (relay) your never going to get your secondary above 80%.
So winch off main.
As for fridge etc. secondary batteries
Everyone here knows toyota did a recall on their bat tray in the engine bay. Arb upgraded theirs to a 30kg capacity from 25 recently also.
Agm and gels are nice and maintenance free but really don’t like heat and are heavy for their size. There is nothing wrong with the old tech if you maintain the battery.
For me personally this is how I have my set up.
I have the new arb tray with a N70Z size lead acid deep cycle battery. This is 105 amp hr and 25kg all contained under the hood. Redarc BCDC 1225D (solar ready and low voltage trigger left disconnected) is my charger. It’s mounted in front of radiator to improve cooling.
As for solar I have 120w of panel mounted to my roof so the green energy dcdc charger means I hardly (weather permitting) draw power from the cars system
40l Engel camp lights water pump and some tech charging off the secondary
Driving lights off the primary etc
To date never had a problem.
Adamberger was correct in saying the projector will work but he is stating it will never be 100% efficient. That system will only ever get to around 80% capacity. So your 130amp bat is really only cabable of about 100-110 amps max because it cannot reach its potential while a bcdc charger will.
So basically by using a bcdc charger and smaller battery I’m achieving the same outcome as the projector and bigger battery because of how efficient each system is.
We will both have cold beers your system will just be a lot heavier and take up tray space.
That was a ramble. But I hope it helps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I understand your frustrations on name brands I get that. But a lot of the knowledge in the background doesn’t make it out of the salespersons mouth because simply they don’t understand it. If they don’t have a auto elec trade or atleast mechanic and basic elec. then they are just a pretty face selling you a kit that they have no idea how it operates.
My experience comes from the heavy vehicle industry and I have worked for in the past and still have friends in arb now.
As for the N80 smart tech and canbus most people don’t wanna mess with it that includes me and I did my trade on the junk. Great when it works but don’t mess with it (this is my No1 pet hate of rangers every circuit has a fault sensor in it)
Anyway back to the message at hand.
Winching
I always set up to winch directly from the main start battery. Winches pull huge amps under heavy loads. And really the only device in your car capable of high amp/current output constantly is the alternator. If you set up onto a secondary battery you will basically drain it quicker then a dcdc charger can ever fill it (25 or 40 in 100+ going out it’s simple math) if your using something like an sbi (relay) your never going to get your secondary above 80%.
So winch off main.
As for fridge etc. secondary batteries
Everyone here knows toyota did a recall on their bat tray in the engine bay. Arb upgraded theirs to a 30kg capacity from 25 recently also.
Agm and gels are nice and maintenance free but really don’t like heat and are heavy for their size. There is nothing wrong with the old tech if you maintain the battery.
For me personally this is how I have my set up.
I have the new arb tray with a N70Z size lead acid deep cycle battery. This is 105 amp hr and 25kg all contained under the hood. Redarc BCDC 1225D (solar ready and low voltage trigger left disconnected) is my charger. It’s mounted in front of radiator to improve cooling.
As for solar I have 120w of panel mounted to my roof so the green energy dcdc charger means I hardly (weather permitting) draw power from the cars system
40l Engel camp lights water pump and some tech charging off the secondary
Driving lights off the primary etc
To date never had a problem.
Adamberger was correct in saying the projector will work but he is stating it will never be 100% efficient. That system will only ever get to around 80% capacity. So your 130amp bat is really only cabable of about 100-110 amps max because it cannot reach its potential while a bcdc charger will.
So basically by using a bcdc charger and smaller battery I’m achieving the same outcome as the projector and bigger battery because of how efficient each system is.
We will both have cold beers your system will just be a lot heavier and take up tray space.
That was a ramble. But I hope it helps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk