Thump / jolt from auto trans or tailshaft.

[Monaz]

I've always wondered why they put nipples on our trucks!! Nooooooooo, wasn't me!

[Qwerty]

Mate you need to get better with these nipples, on your mrs AND mistress !

[Monaz]

Lmao...

[DeadlyBeast]

Hello leichlux
I posted a topic on this a while ago viewtopic.php?f=31&t=5167 it’s a common problem at big service centres where they just don’t care or poorly trained staff.
You state you only had the problem after the 80k service and the only too things they do down that end of your vehicle is (or supposed too)

1: Take the drums off and inspect the pads then blow out excessive dust, if they haven’t your drum pads can grab and chatter.

2: They are suppose to change the LSD differential oil and I’m willing to bet they have used a normal gear oil with no friction modifier in it, in other words not proper LSD oil. This will cause the LSD clutches to “Chatter” when coming to a stop after a long drive of when reversing. Simply drain it out and use good quality LSD diff oil. The Toyota LSD diff oil is the same price as buying it from an auto shop so you may as well use it (LS 90)

Always try the least expensive things first, and also the things that have changed since you noticed the noise.

I received my lux back from Toyota after a 80k service and had the worst experience.
Firstly I had just detailed the car - they returned it with dirty water spots all over it after water blasting who knows what. Then noticed a loud rattling noise when starting up - they hadn't done up the 3 lock down clips on the air filter box lid. They hadnt even changed the air filter as scheduled in a 80,000km service (Charged me $70 for the small aircon filter behind the glove box though). Then I noticed the rear diff grinding when turning - they had put the wrong diff oil in the rear.

Just today after inspecting my shocks I noticed the slip yoke was completely dry - I pumped about 100g or more of grease into this one grease point alone. Needless to say none of the other drive shaft grease points had been greased.
Makes me wonder if they checked the valve clearances as outlined in the schedule.

What did I pay over $800 for!!???
I've taken the car back 3 times so far after noticing each problem (that I could identify) and am getting sick of their attitude like 'you aren't a mechanic, what would you know' type demeanor.
How do I know any of the other work I was charged for has been done? ... I don't.
I took my car to Toyota knowing that I would pay a bit more but trusted that they would do the best job for a big service like 80k.

As people point out; If you want anything done properly do it your self.
I will be doing my own oil and filter changes, drive line servicing and anything else I can from now on.

[Qwerty]

Mate I would put that in writing in the strongest terms to the deal principle and don't pull any punches.

Tear the incompetent idiots a new one.

Who's the dealer ?

[Qwerty]

Also if u feel they are belittling you , say exactly that. If you feel they're lazy and being dismissive because they don't want to own up , tell them that exactly. Get in their face and drive the $800 nail in until they're on their knees gagging.

They'll hate you but they'll do the bloody job right thereafter.

Only way to play dealers is with an iron fist mate.

[DeadlyBeast]

Mate I would put that in writing in the strongest terms to the deal principle and don't pull any punches.

Tear the incompetent idiots a new one.

Who's the dealer ?

Thanks Q. After my rant on this thread I thought the same thing. I will put it in writing and make it formal.

I live in a small town - basically no competition allowing room for complacency. The dealership here has a very poor reputation and owners have come from out of state to undo years of damage to the business.
One of the lads who has come over to do damage control is great - he is the only one who demonstrated more than an once of customer service skills. If it wasn't for him I wouldn't bother to provide the formal feedback and I just wouldn't return again.

[DILLIGAF1]

Hi there guys and girls i have just purchased a 2005 Hilux dual cab 4.0ltr v6 auto and if you let it idle along in drive it gets a shudder it goes on and of about every second so shudder then no shudder then shudder again has anyone had or know of this happening all help would be great.

[DILLIGAF1]

Hi there guys and girls i have just purchased a 2005 Hilux dual cab 4.0ltr v6 auto and if you let it idle along in drive it gets a shudder it goes on and of about every second so shudder then no shudder then shudder again has anyone had or know of this happening all help would be great.

[BB1]

Love this info on this forum.

Same problem for me - 2011 SR5 auto. Just had 50K service done by Stealership in Taringa about 800k's a go and the clunk was there last night.

Told them I was doing a huge trip over xmas into woop woop areas and they still couldnt be bothered to do a decent job!

Back in tomorrow for a proper lube of this joint

[Qwerty]

Get a grease gun and do it yourself mate pretty easy.


** Sent from tapatalk**

[BB1]

Will do in future but I paid good money for a service and want these guys to know they cant get away with shortcuts!

[Qwerty]

tell them to send a service van to your premises for your trouble.

[leghorn]

what type of grease gun are you guys using?

[DeadlyBeast]

Having the common tail shaft thud I did some reading and found some interesting ideas on another forum
I have posted the information below but here is what I did get get rid of the thud
1. Purchased Moly disulphide NGLI2 lithium grease
2. Pumped into rear slip yoke - about 20 pumps
3. Removed zerk fitting - purged air and grease
4. Jumped up and down on rear of tub - a little more grease pops out
5. Installed zerk
6. pumped in more grease - 4-5 more
7. repeat 3.-5.

No more thud

I used to use Nulon extreme performance grease for the entire drive shaft including the slip yokes.
Only used to put in a few pumps into slip yokes.
Im not sure what solved the problem - whether it was replacing with Moly grease or purging the air or both

Quote from US site:
"1. The Toyota factory service manual (for LX) says to grease until grease is seen escaping past seals. This may mean it is actually a proper service technique that causes no harm (if manual is correct). Page PR-7:

"HINT: After installation, pump MP grease into each fitting with a grease gun until the grease begins to flow around the oil seal."

(I think "MP" means "multipurpose". This is evidently where Toyota missed it, regarding the need to use moly in this application.)

2. The splines are evidently prone to "stiction": When vehicle is stopped, idling in D and held by brakes, the static angular (torsion) driveshaft load sets the splines semi-stuck together in a nominal axial (driveshaft length) position (due to neutral height of rear end). As soon as vehicle starts to accelerate, rolling from stopped position, the spline contact force increases due to angular (torsion) forces in the driveshaft, at the same time sliding forces between splines increase as the rear driveshaft is compressed by the rear end being forced down as vehicle starts to accelerate. If there is inadequate lubrication in the splines to prevent stiction, they will momentarly stick (static friction) then break free and slide (dynamic friction). This causes the clunk. The solution is to get enough lubrication between spline sliding surfaces to prevent stiction. ("Enough" also means "correct" lubrication - MOLY.)

3. Greasing with only a few pumps does not really force much (if any) grease into the spline area. It may only put a few dollops of grease into the cavity at the end of the internal shaft, with very little (or no) grease being forced into the splines. Therefore greasing must be overgreasing, until grease spooges out past the seal. This will completely fill the cavity and force some grease into the spline area, and also, additional grease will slowly work its way into the splines over time in service helping to keep the splines greased.

Regarding concerns about axial (thrust) force increasing due to overgreasing, and possible resulting damage to bearings in tranny/tcase/differential: (a) The slip joints already exert significant thrust force in service because they are sealed so well that they act like air springs due to air trapped in slip joint cavity, so overgreasing does not create thrust forces where none exist without overgreasing, and (b) the tranny/tcase and differential input bearings will already include thrust bearing provision in their design, because this is a common design factor. As noted I've been running overgreased for a few years now with absolutely no resulting problems.

4. Moly grease MUST be used to alleviate the clunk problem. (Caution: Moly is toxic, don't eat the grease.)

Tinkerer's .02 worth. (Nearly a dissertation but a simple problem really.)

One more suggestion about overgreasing the rear spline joint:

I'd do it with vehicle at nominal height.

(If done with rear suspension fully dropped/extended, the spline joint will be fully extended. This will cause the internal cavity to be at max volume, requiring more grease to fill to drive grease into the splines and also leaving more grease in the cavity that will be driven out past seal under pressure during service about nominal height.)"