NewHilux.net

I think what packeteer, is asking is if you already have 319mm rotors on a vsc equipped hilux can you just upgrade the rotors to 338mm without the need to change the callipers to the prado versions.
Which I am interested to know as well

don't see how you could change the rotors without changing calipers - at the very least you'd need to use some sort of bracket to space the calipers further from the center of the hub!

calipers are matched to rotors.

Thanks for clearing that up, I'm happy with the way my brakes work, might just upgrade to slotted rotors next time. I have a feeling my rotors are warped now anyways

yeah sorry guys, I asked a dumb question instead of a smart one

Does anyone know if this front brake set up will fit earlier models? like my 1990 ifs 4x4? I have my plans sorted for the rears, but there's no info on front brakes, everyone is keeping it a secret purely because they don't want to do research for other people to use..

its better u get a pair of Toyota Fortuner TRD front caliper set which is bigger.

buffo69 wrote:

joeblack wrote:Hey Guys..

has anyone tried installing Prado150 brake caliper onto a Hilux?

Anyone??

This is what I'm after aswell

take fortuner TRD version calipers set

who knows of any larger disk sets that can be used on a 1990 ifs?

I just got a set of 2012 150 Series Prado front calipers for the Hilux brake shop reckons putting these on will give me a spongy pedal cause the piston size will be bigger. Who has actually used 150ser prado Calipers???
Cheers

For future reference 150 calipers with 150 rotors will fit but will not work without changing booster and brake master, as the brake pistons are too big and the hilux brake master can't get enough fluid behind them to work properly. I rang the boys at hopper stoppers and they suggested 80 ser landcruiser booster and master.

I just use dot 4 fluid to stop spongy feel ,
just make sure its dot 3 compatible (the dot 4 Brake fluid)
and I also got braided lines from snake racing works great

[quote="Blackdelux"]I just use dot 4 fluid to stop spongy feel ,
just make sure its dot 3 compatible (the dot 4 Brake fluid)
and I also got braided lines from snake racing works great[/quot

Brake fluid wont have an effect on the pedal feel the difference between dot 4 and 3 is there boiling point (Dot 4 being higher) and the make up of chemicals is nearly the same. Some Dot 4 brake fluids in the early days would make rubbers swell but this has been fixed by most manufactures so you can use dot 4 where dot 3 is required. And YES Braided lines are a great thing as they wont expand under pressure I run the Australian made HEL brake lines on mine and there a great improvement over standard.

does anyone know the reasoning of why a prado booster and master cannot be used in the hilux any help would be appreciated

cadenathan wrote:does anyone know the reasoning of why a prado booster and master cannot be used in the hilux any help would be appreciated

One reason you cant use it is it has a different valving in the rear circuit as drum brakes require less fluid. The hilux MC does not proportion the pressure at it has its own dedicated valve under the tray. The Prado one proportions in the master cylinder - which will likely play havoc with the valve under the rear as well. Check this page out:

http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/index.p ... &Itemid=14

I fitted prado brakes to my ute, bled them three times before I got all the air out, the last time only a very small amount (like two tiny bubbles) came out of the front left rotor - but it made a huge difference to pedal feel and brake effect. They work a charm - new pads, new calipers, new slotted and dimpled rotors, rattle springs and braided brake lines - all for $750. Will easily lock up the 2014 Sr5 17" mags I have on it now at any speeds. Stops 100% better - never touched the master except to fill it up during bleeding so I don't believe you need to go effort of replacing master cylinder

Mrmal wrote:

cadenathan wrote:does anyone know the reasoning of why a prado booster and master cannot be used in the hilux any help would be appreciated

One reason you cant use it is it has a different valving in the rear circuit as drum brakes require less fluid. The hilux MC does not proportion the pressure at it has its own dedicated valve under the tray. The Prado one proportions in the master cylinder - which will likely play havoc with the valve under the rear as well. Check this page out:

http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/index.p ... &Itemid=14

I fitted prado brakes to my ute, bled them three times before I got all the air out, the last time only a very small amount (like two tiny bubbles) came out of the front left rotor - but it made a huge difference to pedal feel and brake effect. They work a charm - new pads, new calipers, new slotted and dimpled rotors, rattle springs and braided brake lines - all for $750. Will easily lock up the 2014 Sr5 17" mags I have on it now at any speeds. Stops 100% better - never touched the master except to fill it up during bleeding so I don't believe you need to go effort of replacing master cylinder

thanks for clearing that up mate i didn't even consider about the rears drum on one and disc on the other model
cheers

monaro_77 wrote:I just got a set of 2012 150 Series Prado front calipers for the Hilux brake shop reckons putting these on will give me a spongy pedal cause the piston size will be bigger. Who has actually used 150ser prado Calipers???
Cheers

I know someone that did it and achieved good results.

Heres a tip for you all from my build thread:

click the pic for full view

http://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/posting.php?mode=quote&f=41&p=246569

Hilux Max wrote:So as not to have the cable ties holding the lever rod off the LPSV, I used the original adjusting rod that was attached to the lever and flipped it upside down....measured the position on the tub support braces so it would all still be the same and with a self tapper screwed it in.



Now its a permanant position, with a little bit of adjustment if required in the future.

Why did I do this?

I did this after I installed the FJ calipers and slotted rotors and along with braided lines and bigger booster on 35's.

By flipping it upside down and mounting the LPSV adjustor rod the way I did, yes, it doesnt have variable rear brake pressure when you load it up, but that didnt concern me. I wanted better braking pressure for the rear brakes.

I rarely carried a load in the back, and levering the rod against the Valve itself lightly in that position, simulates the same brake increased brake pressure as if I had a small load in the back, so stopping was much better to go with the much improved front.

She pulled up better on 35's than most new SUV's did.

Yes, it would probably wear your rear drum shoes out quicker, but they are not too difficult to replace and small price to pay for better braking performance IMO.

I would strongly recommend you get an engineers mod plate for that mod Maxx - when you collide with some one for whatever reason the first thing the forensic boys will say is you bypassed a safety critical brake item. No insurance and possible jail time if someone gets seriously hurt.....

Mal

Bypass? I made it safer than before.