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Can anybody suggest a better combo than the DBA B4X4 Survival 4000 Series, T3 Slotted, DBA42716S and Bendix Ultimates DB1482 ULT for a GUN136?

Not really. QFM make some very decent pads, which I run with T2 slotted. Might be worth checking the specs of those.

Checking in on an old thread. About to replace front brakes, while I’d love the Prado disks I’m pretty much attached to my newish 16” rims.

So is the popular opinion still with T3 rotors and Bendix (ultimate or 4x4?) pads?

Anyone the DBA pads?


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T3 rotors are for high speed performance, race track stuff.
Im running T2s with bendix pads. Massive improvement over original. I doubt T3s would make a noticeable improvement over T2s on a 4WD.

From memory it is the metallurgy in the 4000 series that make the T3 best for HD and track duty (which DBA include towing and 4x4 with). The T2 has the same steel as the standard replacement rotor with similar slots to the T3. The standard replacement rotor and the T2 still get the better cooling design (Kangaroo paw), just not made from the same material.
As Marty says though, for everyday use and general 4x4 you wouldn’t see much difference, however if you have an auto and tow a lot I’d look at T3’s.

If you want to keep 16” wheels and want far improved braking I’d try 2012-15 319mm rotors and calipers, unless you already have one of these or a diesel dual cab 2011. Those should fit in 16” rims, and are a big step up from 297mm on pre 2012 but not as big as the 338mm TRD (120 ‘cruiser size) that you need 17” wheels for. You could simply try one of your wheels on a 2012-15 to check for clearance. The step up in rotor size even using stock rotors will improve your braking better than any replacement smaller rotor especially if you have increased your tyre size.

Great feedback thanks guys.
Yeah mine is 2007 manual extracab running 265/70/16, and packed up for a trip I’m right on max GVM (on an empty stomach!) which I think is a bit heavy for the stock rotors. Also do a bit of towing.
I’ll look further into the 319mm rotors.


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If you can, try your rim on a later model with the larger brakes. Not all 16 inch rims fit, depends on the offset.
I bought a set of 16s supposedly of an SR the same year as my 2013 SR5 and they didnt clear the calipers. They may not have been stock rims, they were a spare set the guy was using for off road.

Andyfive wrote:Can anybody suggest a better combo than the DBA B4X4 Survival 4000 Series, T3 Slotted, DBA42716S and Bendix Ultimates DB1482 ULT for a GUN136?

That's what I'm running. I'd add braided brake lines to the list to round it out.

https://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=429374#p429374

Critter350 wrote:Great feedback thanks guys.
Yeah mine is 2007 manual extracab running 265/70/16, and packed up for a trip I’m right on max GVM (on an empty stomach!) which I think is a bit heavy for the stock rotors. Also do a bit of towing.
I’ll look further into the 319mm rotors.


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265/70/16 will be really close to the standard 265/65/17 that are fitted to the cars with 319mm rotors, so should be fine, just have to check your wheels fit a 2012-15 with 319mm rotors. Buy new rotors and you should be able to find good used calipers at a wreckers l, or they may not be that dear new. You’ll need the backing plates off a wrecked Hilux though. Changing the backing plates is the hardest part as you have to undo the front hub and knock the shaft out of the centre. Rest is easy, just clean the hub face up really well before putting new rotors and calipers on. If you aren’t familiar with bleeding brakes a brake place will do the whole job for you.

I’ve had the T2s and T3s. The T3s handle the heat better and would be better suited to handling more serious pads.

Pads I would recommend looking at the DBA XP. I’ve used all the bendix options inc the 4x4 series and the difference is HUGE between them and the DBA XPs.
Bendix were always really poor when cold ie. the first 5mins of driving every trip (enough for it be noticeable and dangerous). Under heavy braking the fade is noticeable. The DBAs are wayyyyyy better.

Please note: these are all for the TRD size 338mm. Those pads might not be available for the other size models. If interested, speak to brakes direct see if they can help.


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Good feedback on the thanks. I have a quote from Brakes Direct for 297mm T3 and XP panda ~$600. Said they couldn’t help me with 319mm rotors (maybe worried about supplying non standard stuff).
My local mechanic quoted me $380 for each T3 rotor, plus pads and labour etc, was going to be up around $1k.
Waiting on call back from Bursons on T3 + XP price.


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I put 297mm T3 and Bendix SUV pads on my 2011 after I killed the originals after fitting 265/65/17 tyres on it. Even the T3’s were overheating within 10,000km. I then changed to 338mm, and the problem went away, but still have to watch for warping.

Yours is an auto from memory HK. So yeah you’ll be riding the brakes a lot more than me. Mine’s manual and drive it more like a truck - brakes support the engine braking. But need them to do the job when some idiot pulls in front.
Bigger rotors would be nice, but without engineering I’m concerned about the insurance/ liability thing.


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In NSW you are allowed to fit optional brakes if I remember correctly, and the TRD brakes are an “option” for this series. Same with the 17x7.5 30P rims and 265/65/17 tyres. Not sure if it works the same in WA?

TRD’s weren’t out in 2007. There’s probably an argument (and a good one) that specs are otherwise the same, but I don’t want to be having that argument with a judge.
Judge- “Who says they are the same?”
Me- “read it on a forum...”


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