CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Gearboxs, Transfers, Tailshafts, Diffs, axles and CVs

CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby blackapache on Sat, 27 Jul 2019 11:32 +0000

Hey Guys, Ive got a 2007 lux, its only a recent purchase, 240kms - unknown history to me.

Anyways on the way home the other day I was coming around a tight right hand turn off camber so the left side was pretty loaded when i heard a bang, then a rotational clunk every wheel revolution or so. I pulled up pretty quick, couldn't see a busted cv or anything else that looked suspect. I put it in neutral and rolled it down the hill a small way and the noise was still there seemed like about every revolution or second revolution of the tyre it would be there. I got out and checked again but still couldn't find play or anything in the shafts, or front end etc. I started limping it home which was about 2km just rolling in first. after about 150m the noise stopped altogether I got home and tested my 2wd/4wd and it seemed ok, no noises, reverse was fine.

I chocked up the front end and checked for play in the bearings there was a very slight clicking in the left CV at the same point each revolution but other than that all fine. Also a small amount of side to side play on the left side and the cv hosing has about 5-7mm of play against the diff side housing too - only on left side, the right seems tighter on tolerances.

I got up this morning and used the truck to haul pallets around my property - no dramas then i decided to check it in 4wd/slow/full lock I put it in 4wd and just let the clutch off at full lock left and right, it seemed to move off the line but then almost stop moving like as if i had put the handbrake on, like it was bound up in the cv or diff or something.

About a month ago I did a big trip towing my trailer and dirt bikes, After i took the trailer off I had a big bang like the diff was bound up and slipped, but I thought that noise was in the rear… it was almost like when an auto locker lets go… but not.

Also I noticed that when i put it in 4 high - so pull the transfer lever down it doesn't stay to the bottom left, it sits in what seems the neutral position… I cant remember if it did this before or if this "normal" for this model… I was in 2wd when i had the drama though so… I know they are constantly turning on this model though.

Ive had plenty of 1kz's but never a 1kd so any isights would be good. I ordered new cv's and front wheel bearings and hubs which i'll throw in anyways just as maintenance. Its got 240,000 unknown kms on it before me - what should I be looking for with this model? Any dead giveaways?

Cheers boys, I really dont need this, I was just about to pull down the EGR system and do the injectors etc… I spent last week doing the belts and cleaning the intercooler etc… and 3 days from hell removing stuck exhaust studs at the turbo end.

It's still better than the GU i had after my 1kz though… that thing was a proper lemon! :D
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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby Myralga on Sat, 27 Jul 2019 1:17 +0000

Hard to tell but simplest thing is get a clean container (white if possible) and drop a splash of oil from the diffs and transfer and trans one at a time. Look for metal. Any major chunks etc.

I have had a friends diff fail in the planetary (talking a JK Jeep) was all good going straight and left but would lock up going right and refuse to turn right. So anything is possible loud bangs are not normal so should check it out.

If you are worried about the front diff get it inspected while the CVs are out. It’s a bit of extra work at the time but worth the extra effort.

I used to maintain a fleet of cruisers and yes it’s easier then a solid axle but whenever we had the axle bare to the knuckle/stub axle we would drop the Centre and inspect it just to be safe it was only an extra 20 min work for us as we had the gear but a lot better to do 20min then a couple hours a few weeks or months later.


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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby blackapache on Mon, 29 Jul 2019 4:22 +0000

Myralga wrote: only an extra 20 min work for us as we had the gear but a lot better to do 20min then a couple hours a few weeks or months later.


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Yeah I was thinking the same thing, I'll definitely check the centres out while Im at it. Cheers
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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby blackapache on Tue, 30 Jul 2019 12:31 +0000

Myralga wrote:Hard to tell but simplest thing is get a clean container (white if possible) and drop a splash of oil from the diffs and transfer and trans one at a time. Look for metal. Any major chunks etc.

I have had a friends diff fail in the planetary (talking a JK Jeep) was all good going straight and left but would lock up going right and refuse to turn right. So anything is possible loud bangs are not normal so should check it out.

If you are worried about the front diff get it inspected while the CVs are out. It’s a bit of extra work at the time but worth the extra effort.

I used to maintain a fleet of cruisers and yes it’s easier then a solid axle but whenever we had the axle bare to the knuckle/stub axle we would drop the Centre and inspect it just to be safe it was only an extra 20 min work for us as we had the gear but a lot better to do 20min then a couple hours a few weeks or months later.


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Well that was quick, I didn't have to go far, rear wheel bearings do have too much play and will need to be done but I dropped the rear diff oil this afternoon and my diff has kidney stones. A lot of metal chunks around 5-7mm plus a ton of fine metal shavings.

Suppose its time to start thinking diffs…

whats my cheapest route? Whats my easiest route? drop it off for a locker and let them deal with it… ha ha :D
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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby TOYZX on Tue, 30 Jul 2019 4:14 +0000

Take the whole diff in to a transmission place or something and get them to do the diff, wheel bearings, the lot! Had mine apart the other day and was a nightmare without the Toyota tools!

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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby blackapache on Tue, 30 Jul 2019 5:07 +0000

TOYZX wrote:Take the whole diff in to a transmission place or something and get them to do the diff, wheel bearings, the lot! Had mine apart the other day and was a nightmare without the Toyota tools!

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What did you have done to the diff and what'd they charge all up?

Im in the middle of gutting/renovating house and I really don't have time for this. My old man said he'd come up and give me a hand.. Ive got a press and every tool ever made but don't have the toyo bearing removal gizmo…

I was going to do the front CVs and hubs/bearings at the same time but I'm seriously short on time.

I'm not even sure how bad it is in the diff yet or even exactly what it is that has lost all the metal :?
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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby TOYZX on Tue, 30 Jul 2019 5:21 +0000

I did it all myself but had to borrow a tool from Toyota. Only had it all apart to fix a leak in the diff housing, so decided to do the bearings while I had the axles out.

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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby hiluxxury on Wed, 31 Jul 2019 5:54 +0000

Another option is to buy a complete rear axle/housing/diff/brakes off a wreck.

If you have a 2007 you have the old style with the weaker rear wheel bearings. The upgrade was introduced 08/2008.

Manuals have different ratios to the auto (3.5:1 vs 3.7:1) and if you have ABS you'll need to find a vehicle that had ABS... but there are plenty around and I got one with a elocker in it for $800 (although I have had ongoing problems with the elocker).
I might be wrong.

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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby blackapache on Wed, 31 Jul 2019 5:54 +0000

hiluxxury wrote:Another option is to buy a complete rear axle/housing/diff/brakes off a wreck.

If you have a 2007 you have the old style with the weaker rear wheel bearings. The upgrade was introduced 08/2008.

Manuals have different ratios to the auto (3.5:1 vs 3.7:1) and if you have ABS you'll need to find a vehicle that had ABS... but there are plenty around and I got one with a elocker in it for $800 (although I have had ongoing problems with the elocker).


I have been looking used and at the wreckers, seems a reco toyo lsd is about $950! I wouldnt pay $950 for another useless toyo lsd…

Im ABS free so no hassles with that which is good.

Im going to crack it open next weekend. Im hoping its something in the LSD side of things i.e the clutches or something not the crown and pinion, as the metal i found were like long shavings not chunks of teeth… (mind you there was so much metal flake in there my oil looked like silver metallic paint :shock: ) If it is the lsd/clutches etc I'm thinking of putting in a truetrac I saw them on VPW for $670, If I fit it and do the bearings at the same time might not be too bad price wise.

I live in a rural area and also thought about the lokka too as i dont do a lot of carpark stuff or slow tight stuff etc..

I had a lokka in the front of my 1KZ and I liked it, even with 35's (on it when i bought it) and then 33's it was fine for me.

So Hiluxxy with that model Im running the 3.5:1 right? Can the later bearings be used in the earlier model or are the bearings/race different sizes… I'm guessing theyre a different size altogether and I'm stuck? Genuine bearings was quoted at $205 a side yesterday from two different dealers, I checked out a few other retailers but everyone seems to be selling Kelpro which are Jap but Ive never used them or otherwise its chinese crap.

I guess I'll see what happens when i rip the axles and have a look inside.

thanks for the input boys
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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby TOYZX on Wed, 31 Jul 2019 7:25 +0000

Pre 08 has different bearings. Got mine from bursons for around $90 pre side and they said the later ones were more than double the price!

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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby hiluxxury on Thu, 01 Aug 2019 6:18 +0000

blackapache wrote:
I have been looking used and at the wreckers, seems a reco toyo lsd is about $950! I wouldnt pay $950 for another useless toyo lsd…

Im ABS free so no hassles with that which is good.

Im going to crack it open next weekend. Im hoping its something in the LSD side of things i.e the clutches or something not the crown and pinion, as the metal i found were like long shavings not chunks of teeth… (mind you there was so much metal flake in there my oil looked like silver metallic paint :shock: ) If it is the lsd/clutches etc I'm thinking of putting in a truetrac I saw them on VPW for $670, If I fit it and do the bearings at the same time might not be too bad price wise.

I live in a rural area and also thought about the lokka too as i dont do a lot of carpark stuff or slow tight stuff etc..

I had a lokka in the front of my 1KZ and I liked it, even with 35's (on it when i bought it) and then 33's it was fine for me.

So Hiluxxy with that model Im running the 3.5:1 right? Can the later bearings be used in the earlier model or are the bearings/race different sizes… I'm guessing theyre a different size altogether and I'm stuck? Genuine bearings was quoted at $205 a side yesterday from two different dealers, I checked out a few other retailers but everyone seems to be selling Kelpro which are Jap but Ive never used them or otherwise its chinese crap.

I guess I'll see what happens when i rip the axles and have a look inside.

thanks for the input boys


The manual has the 3.5 ratio. The bearings found in the 2008 are not compatible with the older housing - different housing and axles.

There is always a risk buying parts from a wreck. Most wreckers now have condition reports of the vehicles so its easier to pick the vehicles that have had a hard life. The are plenty of low km city hiluxs though in wreckers yards FWIW.

A lokka is a good option if you have a history with them and know how they behave.

Partsouq.com will supply genuine parts rather economically. Beware of cheap bearings, outbackjoe who posts recently here had an unfortunate experience with a repco wheel bearing.

I'd go to a diff specialist if you are going to rebuild what you have. I do my own diff rebuilds but wouldn't recommend it - the tools are expensive and setting a diff for the first time takes a lot of youtube, reading and effort. Google zuks diff rebuilds if you want some insights.

A diff rebuild is going to be $$$ but large metal chunks aren't necessarily the end of a ring and pinion. When my elocker blew the first time there was metal everywhere - I still run those gears though. You diff specialist will be able to advise you on this.
I might be wrong.

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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby blackapache on Thu, 01 Aug 2019 12:51 +0000

hiluxxury wrote:
blackapache wrote:
I have been looking used and at the wreckers, seems a reco toyo lsd is about $950! I wouldnt pay $950 for another useless toyo lsd…

Im ABS free so no hassles with that which is good.

Im going to crack it open next weekend. Im hoping its something in the LSD side of things i.e the clutches or something not the crown and pinion, as the metal i found were like long shavings not chunks of teeth… (mind you there was so much metal flake in there my oil looked like silver metallic paint :shock: ) If it is the lsd/clutches etc I'm thinking of putting in a truetrac I saw them on VPW for $670, If I fit it and do the bearings at the same time might not be too bad price wise.

I live in a rural area and also thought about the lokka too as i dont do a lot of carpark stuff or slow tight stuff etc..

I had a lokka in the front of my 1KZ and I liked it, even with 35's (on it when i bought it) and then 33's it was fine for me.

So Hiluxxy with that model Im running the 3.5:1 right? Can the later bearings be used in the earlier model or are the bearings/race different sizes… I'm guessing theyre a different size altogether and I'm stuck? Genuine bearings was quoted at $205 a side yesterday from two different dealers, I checked out a few other retailers but everyone seems to be selling Kelpro which are Jap but Ive never used them or otherwise its chinese crap.

I guess I'll see what happens when i rip the axles and have a look inside.

thanks for the input boys


The manual has the 3.5 ratio. The bearings found in the 2008 are not compatible with the older housing - different housing and axles.

There is always a risk buying parts from a wreck. Most wreckers now have condition reports of the vehicles so its easier to pick the vehicles that have had a hard life. The are plenty of low km city hiluxs though in wreckers yards FWIW.

A lokka is a good option if you have a history with them and know how they behave.

Partsouq.com will supply genuine parts rather economically. Beware of cheap bearings, outbackjoe who posts recently here had an unfortunate experience with a repco wheel bearing.

I'd go to a diff specialist if you are going to rebuild what you have. I do my own diff rebuilds but wouldn't recommend it - the tools are expensive and setting a diff for the first time takes a lot of youtube, reading and effort. Google zuks diff rebuilds if you want some insights.

A diff rebuild is going to be $$$ but large metal chunks aren't necessarily the end of a ring and pinion. When my elocker blew the first time there was metal everywhere - I still run those gears though. You diff specialist will be able to advise you on this.


Yeah I haven't mucked around with preload and backlash much which is why i liked the lokka option as I wouldn't have to, I know with the trueutrac install its leaving the pinion and pressing the crown wheel on to the new setup IIRC so not sure what that'd entail…

Is it possible to pick up a later diff and just use my output flange? or is it a whole different setup?

Time will tell i guess, Once i crack it open and pull the axles I'll have a clearer idea of where to head.

I might call a few diff places and get some responses too.

I'll come back with pictures soonish
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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD? - SOLVED!

Postby blackapache on Tue, 06 Aug 2019 9:20 +0000

OK so it seems I might have been quite lucky. I pulled the axles today, they looked fine, bearings need doing though.

Pulled the diff centre and hello, there's my problem. All of my bolts and retainer clips were snapped off there was only one retainer clip and its 2 little bolts still holding.

On the plus side the crown wheel looks perfect - somehow! and the pinion I cant see anything a miss there yet either but I wont know till it gets pulled down.

Fingers crossed i might just need a few minor bits and have it serviced…

fingers crossed.. :cry:
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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby hiluxxury on Tue, 06 Aug 2019 11:37 +0000

Wonder what happened there. Yes fingers crossed for an economical rebuild.
I might be wrong.

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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby blackapache on Thu, 08 Aug 2019 1:37 +0000

hiluxxury wrote:Wonder what happened there. Yes fingers crossed for an economical rebuild.


Well it wasn't as good as i had hoped but not as bad as it could have been. Turns out my crown wheel had hairline cracks in it. I verified it with my own eyecrometers, there were a few cracks actually..

I got the guys up at Aussie Diffs in currumbin to do a full rebuild, they quoted me $880 and a 4 day turnaround, I mean I gave them just the centre so an easier job labour wise but still I was quoted $850 at every wreckers i rang for a used one and the other quote was $850 for a basic service and new bearings but thats without the new crown wheel, so $880 is pretty good.

The guys come highly reccomended and their shop is top notch, plenty of 4x4 and race cars too.

Cant fault them and I'd reccomend them too if anyone reads this and is in need of a decent shop.
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Re: CAN I BLOW A CV IN 2WD?

Postby hiluxxury on Thu, 08 Aug 2019 6:29 +0000

That's pretty good. You'll have peace of mind for many kms ahead of you.
I might be wrong.

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