NewHilux.net

Have done some searching and can't find an answer.

Does anyone know if can replace the 4 speed auto in a 2011 D4D with the later model 5 speed auto?

Is so, what would be involved?

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You could, require full new harness and ecu controller

Toyota did it for you in the 11/2013 update. You'd need to do some research at a big wreckers and see what is common between a say 2012 and 2014. But as a start you may need everything from the flex plate through to tail shafts including all things attached. As already mentioned above the full harness and ECU. If the shifter and console in your 2011 is different to 2014 you could use one from a V6 2011. You may be lucky where things like flex plate, transfer case and mount, tailshafts etc are the same. I'd talk to Marks 4WD and see if they have any tips. Wholesale Autos too.
Hopefully the engine itself is the same between 2011 and 2014 sensors and plugs wise and all 2011 ABS and air bags etc are all compatible with the later ECU.
Where is the odometer data stored? You may have other random issues too with dash data versus later ECU.

It would be cheaper to trade up and swap all your goodies over

NZMarkb wrote:It would be cheaper to trade up and swap all your goodies over

Maybe, but i like the fact my 2011 SR doesnt have all the electronic wizardry of the later models.

Also given the sheer amount I have spent on modifications (some not transerable) and ive just got it to where i want it (except for the transmission) thers nothong appealing about moving to a later model.

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HK1837 wrote:Toyota did it for you in the 11/2013 update. You'd need to do some research at a big wreckers and see what is common between a say 2012 and 2014. But as a start you may need everything from the flex plate through to tail shafts including all things attached. As already mentioned above the full harness and ECU. If the shifter and console in your 2011 is different to 2014 you could use one from a V6 2011. You may be lucky where things like flex plate, transfer case and mount, tailshafts etc are the same. I'd talk to Marks 4WD and see if they have any tips. Wholesale Autos too.
Hopefully the engine itself is the same between 2011 and 2014 sensors and plugs wise and all 2011 ABS and air bags etc are all compatible with the later ECU.
Where is the odometer data stored? You may have other random issues too with dash data versus later ECU.

Ill dig a bit further, but starting to sound like i may was well go for a full engine/gearbox swap given what might be involved... and honestly i dont think its worth it.

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Buying a complete rite off might be the way to go
Then you can sell off what you don't use

^^I was about to suggest the same. Maybe a rollover?

NZMarkb wrote:Buying a complete rite off might be the way to go
Then you can sell off what you don't use

Might look into that.
Gives me a spare engine too

One hitch might be airbags. IIRC the 2014 update SR had full airbags. Not sure if the ECU will be happy without them.

HK1837 wrote:One hitch might be airbags. IIRC the 2014 update SR had full airbags. Not sure if the ECU will be happy without them.

My 2011 has full airbags. Part of the upgrade safety pack the NSW police opted for apparently

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I know its an old thread, but ..

I want to change my transmission from the 340F to the 750F and found this tool:

http://www.hgmelectronics.com/

Maybe things become less difficult with it.

My 340 is getting hotter and hotter while changing more and more stuff on my 2008 3.0 D4D.
At the moment I am running two extra transmission cooler with fan and did a complete transmission flush but its not enough.
The second problem is that my engine produces 530NM but the transmission control unit dont want more than 450 NM and this sucks.

Do you like headaches? It isnt easy any more, all the ecu's look for eachother or all thieves would have to do is swap the ecm out and drive off.
Make sure you have a second car because it will take you weeks to get it finished if ever, and about half way through you will start to realise it would have been cheaper to trade it in on a car that would actually suit your needs standard.
I was paid to do the electrics on an 80 series manual to auto conversion. The owner got everything he was told he needed from a specialist wrecker, big mistake, the tranny, harness and controller come from 3 different countries and none Australia and all incompatable. He sold his gearbox as soon as it was removed, another big mistake. After 2 weeks of rooting around at 50 bucks an hour he sent the car to the auctions and bought an auto 80 series.

Highfive wrote:I know its an old thread, but ..

I want to change my transmission from the 340F to the 750F and found this tool:

http://www.hgmelectronics.com/

Maybe things become less difficult with it.

My 340 is getting hotter and hotter while changing more and more stuff on my 2008 3.0 D4D.
At the moment I am running two extra transmission cooler with fan and did a complete transmission flush but its not enough.
The second problem is that my engine produces 530NM but the transmission control unit dont want more than 450 NM and this sucks.

It is your converter. I don’t know what flex plate torque mine has but it puts out 600Nm at the rear wheels in 3rd gear. It’s A750F converter generates massive heat. I’ve already killed one converter and it now has a used TRD box in it waiting until I can find someone to build a heavy duty converter for it, then I’ll rebuild the original box. The A750F is a good box but 600Nm is about their limit before they can become fragile. Don’t bust the 340, they are very expensive to buy even as a used box to suit rebuild. Most places wanted $3500 for an old box whereas the A750F’s could be had for $700. My TRD one complete with transfer was $1500 with just over 100k on it. But to retrofit it where a 340 was, all I can say is you are brave.

martynvella wrote:Do you like headaches? It isnt easy any more, all the ecu's look for eachother or all thieves would have to do is swap the ecm out and drive off.
Make sure you have a second car because it will take you weeks to get it finished if ever, and about half way through you will start to realise it would have been cheaper to trade it in on a car that would actually suit your needs standard.
I was paid to do the electrics on an 80 series manual to auto conversion. The owner got everything he was told he needed from a specialist wrecker, big mistake, the tranny, harness and controller come from 3 different countries and none Australia and all incompatable. He sold his gearbox as soon as it was removed, another big mistake. After 2 weeks of rooting around at 50 bucks an hour he sent the car to the auctions and bought an auto 80 series.

Thanks mate for your opinion. I cannot sell my car after 4 years working on it and spending lots of time and money.
I know about the problems and everybody tells me the same but I still like to think about it, because my model has no DPF and is, apart from the transmission, the much better car.

Are there other solutions to tune the 340 .. here in germany we have much less options than you guys.

HK1837 wrote:

Highfive wrote:I know its an old thread, but ..

I want to change my transmission from the 340F to the 750F and found this tool:

http://www.hgmelectronics.com/

Maybe things become less difficult with it.

My 340 is getting hotter and hotter while changing more and more stuff on my 2008 3.0 D4D.
At the moment I am running two extra transmission cooler with fan and did a complete transmission flush but its not enough.
The second problem is that my engine produces 530NM but the transmission control unit dont want more than 450 NM and this sucks.

It is your converter. I don’t know what flex plate torque mine has but it puts out 600Nm at the rear wheels in 3rd gear. It’s A750F converter generates massive heat. I’ve already killed one converter and it now has a used TRD box in it waiting until I can find someone to build a heavy duty converter for it, then I’ll rebuild the original box. The A750F is a good box but 600Nm is about their limit before they can become fragile. Don’t bust the 340, they are very expensive to buy even as a used box to suit rebuild. Most places wanted $3500 for an old box whereas the A750F’s could be had for $700. My TRD one complete with transfer was $1500 with just over 100k on it. But to retrofit it where a 340 was, all I can say is you are brave.

I dont know if I understand you correctly. You are drivng the 750F in your car?
What means " flex plate" .. cannot find a translation that makes sense!

Here in germany its much cheaper overhauling a wrecked 340.

600NM would be fine, 450NM sucks!!

Yes, mine is a 2011 with an A750F. V6 engines always had this box.

Flexplate, see attached Wiki page. It is the bit on the engine that the converter bolts to and the starter motor turns. On a manual the equivalent is a flywheel.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flexplate

Overhauling a good 4spd (not Grenaded) isn’t expensive, the problem is they fail badly and thus the cost of a good used one is high as you need a reasonable box to repair. Hence why I said don’t let your box fail, if it is showing issues fix it asap.

Thanks mate, at the moment ist running fine without any issues besides the high temperature, which I always try to avoid.

It is an A343 transmission isn’t it in the earlier diesel Hilux? Some info here

https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/ ... -burn-out/