NewHilux.net

Alby wrote:

Quinny23 wrote:Another view point I think is that the rear tends to push you into things to get through and the the frount pulls you out of things to get through. Both required depending on the mess you gotten yourself into...

Which one do you think works best underwater???

LMFAO

MADDOG wrote:

Alby wrote:

Quinny23 wrote:Another view point I think is that the rear tends to push you into things to get through and the the frount pulls you out of things to get through. Both required depending on the mess you gotten yourself into...

Which one do you think works best underwater???

LMFAO

X2... Either... as long as they are connected to a wroking Auto!!!

So, as I thought just get both and work it out from there.

I may have to use this line that my misses used on me the other day "Forgiveness is easier to ask for than permission"

helmut79 wrote:So, as I thought just get both and work it out from there.

I may have to use this line that my misses used on me the other day "Forgiveness is easier to ask for than permission"

Somehow that line only works on Men... Girls will still commit whatever you done to memory for recylcing at a later date.................... quite often in a store!!!

Mick they forgive but they NEVER forget!

Elephants have amnesia compared to woman.

just fitted a lockrite auto lokker in the rear of mine its beautifull both on and off road lose no steering input on road and have more control in the wet and only just noticable off road but makes up for it with tration and is not a problem most of the time. had a bad turning circle anyway and its not a compcar so not often in tight sticky situations. but exelent tration

Looking for a bit of advice on my first drivetrain upgrade. As i tackle harder stuff, I am looking for more traction. I have worked through this post, the e-locker one, and the truetrac one etc.

I don't carry much load in the back (06 SR5), and most driving is still on-road (including the wife on school runs etc). From the sounds of it the auto lockers could be too aggressive for daily drive, carparks etc. The LSD has seen 150k, so I assume its no help.

I like the idea of the simplicity of the e-locker. But it leaves me in the same position when it is unlocked. So I am tossing up :
1. E-locker in rear - not sure if there are any LSD or autolock options for the front given the ADD. Can't find if truetrac is available for front - if it was, it sounds like the setup I was thinking
2. E-locker in front and truetrac in back - Turtle_ seems to have this setup. I was worried about the steering issues with locked front
3. E-locker in front and get LSD tightened - not sure how long this will last

Budget can't quite extend to dual lockers.

Also, any recommendations for specialists in Sydney? I have seen a few fans of Langs at Hornsby

Cheers

Opposite Lock at Rockdale. Gordon there is a top bloke.

tubbers wrote:2. E-locker in front and truetrac in back - Turtle_ seems to have this setup. I was worried about the steering issues with locked front

This is the set i'm going to be running mate.

I'm putting in a Yukon Grizzley in the rear and Elocker front.

Check out the group buy im running currently

Ok
Ive had abit of a read of this thread ive bitten the bullet in preparation for our Cape trip in june,Ive ordered a front e-locker for my lux,Now I want to do a rear mechanical Auto locker as well,not sure on whats the best unit to fit.
this is a daily driver and the misses occasionally drives my truck to the local shops so i dont want the rear locking up and spitting her off at a roundabout anytime soon,whats my best cost effective autolock option.

Any advise would be appreiciated?

Yukon Grizzley look like a good bit of kit and are around $700 off the top of my head. these replace the whole diff center making them stronger then lockers that just replace the internals of the stock carrier but the internal lokkas are cheaper i think about $450

there was a recent group buy thread for the grizzlys so ask the guys that got them how they perform

thread viewtopic.php?f=62&t=16170&hilit=grizzly+group

I run Arb front and rear, but ideally you would be better sticking with the Eaton rear as well IMO given your not the only driver of the vehicle. Atleast you can rest assured its not going to kick in unexpectedly on her.
Unrelated story but a mate of mine years ago got a flat on his FJ40 cruiser. His spare was bald but he was aware of it so he fitted it up. His Mrs borrowed the vehicle to drive into town, rounded a slow bend entering a bridge and lost control. The FJ went through the guard rail on the bridge and over the side landing on its roof, she was very lucky to escape relatively unhurt as it was a 8 meter drop.

Cheers guys
I've decided a trutrac for the rear,might be best for me,I'm waiting on a price today,and lll go and
Get a deposit on them both,hopefully have them fitted in the next week .
Then abit of testing.

Front harrop (ironman , slightly stronger than harrop direct one, made by harrop all the same) e locker , rear is LSD and works great.

Love it so far. Didn't want to lose LSD for various reasons and it was always my front end open diff letting me down, I.e spinning a wheel while the other sits with perfect traction and no torque.

It bemuses me that any 4wd has open diffs. Defeats purpose of 4wd when it favours torque to the WRONG wheel!

Qwerty wrote:Front harrop (ironman , slightly stronger than harrop direct one, made by harrop all the same) e locker , rear is LSD and works great.

Love it so far. Didn't want to lose LSD for various reasons and it was always my front end open diff letting me down, I.e spinning a wheel while the other sits with perfect traction and no torque.

It bemuses me that any 4wd has open diffs. Defeats purpose of 4wd when it favours torque to the WRONG wheel!

yep excactly why Im going for a "Truetrac" in the rear http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServ ... PCT_338418

in the rear and "Elocker" in the front.
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServ ... PCT_339903.

why do you say the Ironman unit is slighly stronger out of interest?

Apparently the version that harrop build for ironman are 4 pinion instead of 2

Not entirely sure what that means !!

Qwerty wrote:Apparently the version that harrop build for ironman are 4 pinion instead of 2

Not entirely sure what that means !!

mmmmm I did abit of research on this(only what i could find on the net) and apparently not,there are supposed to be identical.

But that depends on who you ask

But it means 4 pinion gears in the housing instead of 2,which does make them stronger.
but there is a couple differnt types

I just paid the deposit on both mine this morning.

yeah no idea mate ... regardless, good product regardless.

I only went on what my mate (state rep for ironman) told me... that when they had harrop build lockers for them, they requested a bit of stregthening. WHether that happened or not no idea!

YOu wont break the locker (you might break other things tho! )

This comment troubles me.... Are they strong enough for the things we do or would a electric or pneumatic locker be stronger?

have had no experience with them and im not a mechanical engineer so wouldnt know how to evaluate it.

for me, its an on/off locker ... or factory LSD ... because ive been around those things a while and know what they mean and what to expect.