I know there are lots of threads about transmission coolers but very few photos or instructions.
Now most people will think this is a simple job and for most it is but hopefully it will help somebody.
I have fitted it up to my 2010 model SR5 D4D.
I started with purchasing this Davies Craig kit from SuperCheap for $139. The size I chose is 280mm x 200mm x 19mm. The one that does up to 4.2 litre engines.
I ventured over to Bunnings and purchased two lengths of aluminium stips, 20mm x 3mm x 1m long. You probably only need one length. I managed to bend up some brackets to suit and picked up holes or bolt holes with capsulated nuts already in them on both the radiator support and front apron panel.
These are the brackets I bent up.
And bent they look like this.
Scott
I first removed the horn bracket and grill. If you have an ARB bull bar and have the replacement grill bracket, best of luck getting your grill out with out breaking the plastic tabs off the grill. Anyway thats another problem to fix another day.
The left top bracket bolt hole is an 8 x 1.25mm thread that held the horn in. I replaced the bolt with one a bit longer. The bottom left hole is an existing hole in the apron panel. I used a 6 x 1mm bolt and nut to mount this. The right hand bracket top mount hole I picked up from an original bolt under the bonnet latch. I used a longer 6 x 1mm bolt and put a couple of washers for spacers underneath to space it out a bit. The bottom right hole on the apron panel is a capsulated nut inside the panel. The thread is a 6 x 1mm so a suitable bolt will screw straight in. Once the brackets are mounted you can place the cooler on the brackets and mark the holes. I removed the brackets, drilled the holes in them and refitted the brackets. Now in the kit you get some spongy pads to stop rubbing. They are sticky on one side so I drilled the centre holes out and stuck them to the brackets where the mounting bolts for the cooler will go through them. 4 x 6 x 1mm bolts, flat washers on both sides and nylock nuts to hold the cooler to the brackets with the spongy stuff as an insulator. Should look like this.
Top mounting holes and bolts.
Left hand bottom mounting holes.
Right hand bottom mounting hole.
I ended up drilling a hole in the left bracket to remount the horn. You are restricted as to the length of the wires. I might extend the wires tomorrow to remount it somewhere else but for now it will do.
End product looks like this. You can see there is at least a 2 to 3 inch gap between the cooler and the air conditioner condensor. This is done on purpose to let any heat dissipated from the cooler to evaporate and not put any excess heat directly onto the air conditioner condensor.
All that is left is running the hoses. I will do this tomorrow and update with more photos.
I will be removing the hose from the radiator on the drivers side as this is the inlet to the radiator. I will route the hose from the pipe coming from the transmission to the top inlet on the cooler. Then from the bottom outlet on the cooler I will run it back into the radiator.
Job done.
You could probably mount a larger cooler however I went with this size as I knew it would fit because I measured up the area prior to purchase.
Hopefully this may help others out.
2010 SR5 D4D Auto ARB bar & suspension, Rear Elocker.