Automatic Transmission Rebuild Journey
Posted: Tue, 16 Dec 2014 1:26 +0000
Hey everyone, bought my first Hilux recently and this is my first forum post! Its a 2009 SR 4x4 dual cab diesel automatic with 195 on the clock. And as the title suggests, I've run into trouble already.
I purchased the vehicle from Pickles auctions as a trade in about a month ago (I know I know.. lucky i got a good price) and after about 80km on the 100km drive home i started having issues . The engine light had come on and the torque converter wouldn't lock up. Very quickly it escalated and got worse. Pretty soon I couldn't do over 70 and was revving at around 4000 rpm to hold it there. I pulled up at the first place I could and checked the a/t fluid which was extremely hot and burnt. After letting it cool for half an hour I drove the last 10k home slowly to avoid slipping. After some intense googling and a fairly sleepless night I decided to do a full system fluid flush, add a secondary cooler, and see how that went. When I dropped the pan this is what it looked like.
I knew I was in trouble but decided to stick to my plan and done the flush method shown in this youtube vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY
I done around 30ks before having the exact same issues again so i decided to drive it straight up the farm and pull the box out for inspection. After 4 hours on the hoist (yes I'm very lucky my Nonno loves the auctions and bought a hoist only a few weeks ago) I had the box and converter out and the issue was obvious straight away.
The shaft sleeve for the oil pump seal to run on had walked up the torque converter pump drive shaft and into the front of the pump housing. This was probably initially caused by the overheating of the converter from towing in drive. (just speculating as the ute seems to be setup for heavy towing). This in turn created mass heat and sent steel through the converter and whole gearbox, destroying the oil pump and likely a lot more. I knew then that this was going to become an expensive venture. So the box and converter went into the trailer to take home for stripping and inspection.
In the below photo, that sleeve was running up higher where the wear is. I only knocked it down to where it is now (and where is should be) as part of my investigation.
Below is the wear in the front of the pump housing from the sleeve
The lovely un welcomed clearance inside the oil pump
And my good oil seal
I decided that as a fitter and turner by trade, and currently out of a job, I would give the rebuild a go myself to try and save a few $. So after much more intense googling I found this incredible manual to step me through the whole strip down and rebuilding process. http://kai.supramania.com/Supra/A340%20 ... 216%29.pdf
After the full strip was complete, I found some interesting things.
No.1 I didn't need one of the "special service tools" to complete the job. Just basic hand tools and a little patience.
No.2 Auto Gearboxes aren't really as scary as they seem and I do suggest that anyone who thinks they have half a clue to give the rebuild a go themselves. (Just remember that patience, cleanliness and organisation are key.
No.3 The clutch packs in the box were in great condition. Still had writing on them and the steels had hardly any marks.
It was now time to sit down and order some parts.
This is what I decided to do.
Full seal and gasket rebuild kit with Raybestos stage one frictions and steels. (decided to change the frictions anyway as some had steel filings embedded in them).
Heavy duty torque converter rebuild (considering furnace brazing) by TCI in NSW.
Rebuilt oil pump.
Transgo HD2 shift kit.
New tcc solenoid.
Large dual pass transmission cooler with fan hooked up to a 70deg sensor switch.
So far the bill is looking to be around $1500, though I could have done a budget rebuild for around $600 and remained with a stock gearbox though I decided to go the full hog as I'm planning on keeping this ute for a long time and hopefully it taking me around Australia!
I will keep everyone updated with the progress as parts arrive. The back on road date is looking to be early new year (as Christmas is a bit of an, of course welcomed, hindrance.)
I purchased the vehicle from Pickles auctions as a trade in about a month ago (I know I know.. lucky i got a good price) and after about 80km on the 100km drive home i started having issues . The engine light had come on and the torque converter wouldn't lock up. Very quickly it escalated and got worse. Pretty soon I couldn't do over 70 and was revving at around 4000 rpm to hold it there. I pulled up at the first place I could and checked the a/t fluid which was extremely hot and burnt. After letting it cool for half an hour I drove the last 10k home slowly to avoid slipping. After some intense googling and a fairly sleepless night I decided to do a full system fluid flush, add a secondary cooler, and see how that went. When I dropped the pan this is what it looked like.
I knew I was in trouble but decided to stick to my plan and done the flush method shown in this youtube vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY
I done around 30ks before having the exact same issues again so i decided to drive it straight up the farm and pull the box out for inspection. After 4 hours on the hoist (yes I'm very lucky my Nonno loves the auctions and bought a hoist only a few weeks ago) I had the box and converter out and the issue was obvious straight away.
The shaft sleeve for the oil pump seal to run on had walked up the torque converter pump drive shaft and into the front of the pump housing. This was probably initially caused by the overheating of the converter from towing in drive. (just speculating as the ute seems to be setup for heavy towing). This in turn created mass heat and sent steel through the converter and whole gearbox, destroying the oil pump and likely a lot more. I knew then that this was going to become an expensive venture. So the box and converter went into the trailer to take home for stripping and inspection.
In the below photo, that sleeve was running up higher where the wear is. I only knocked it down to where it is now (and where is should be) as part of my investigation.
Below is the wear in the front of the pump housing from the sleeve
The lovely un welcomed clearance inside the oil pump
And my good oil seal
I decided that as a fitter and turner by trade, and currently out of a job, I would give the rebuild a go myself to try and save a few $. So after much more intense googling I found this incredible manual to step me through the whole strip down and rebuilding process. http://kai.supramania.com/Supra/A340%20 ... 216%29.pdf
After the full strip was complete, I found some interesting things.
No.1 I didn't need one of the "special service tools" to complete the job. Just basic hand tools and a little patience.
No.2 Auto Gearboxes aren't really as scary as they seem and I do suggest that anyone who thinks they have half a clue to give the rebuild a go themselves. (Just remember that patience, cleanliness and organisation are key.
No.3 The clutch packs in the box were in great condition. Still had writing on them and the steels had hardly any marks.
It was now time to sit down and order some parts.
This is what I decided to do.
Full seal and gasket rebuild kit with Raybestos stage one frictions and steels. (decided to change the frictions anyway as some had steel filings embedded in them).
Heavy duty torque converter rebuild (considering furnace brazing) by TCI in NSW.
Rebuilt oil pump.
Transgo HD2 shift kit.
New tcc solenoid.
Large dual pass transmission cooler with fan hooked up to a 70deg sensor switch.
So far the bill is looking to be around $1500, though I could have done a budget rebuild for around $600 and remained with a stock gearbox though I decided to go the full hog as I'm planning on keeping this ute for a long time and hopefully it taking me around Australia!
I will keep everyone updated with the progress as parts arrive. The back on road date is looking to be early new year (as Christmas is a bit of an, of course welcomed, hindrance.)