Bleeding clutch

[Chrischater]

Hi all
I found my clutch started slipping when exiting a river crossing up a steep hill , and as I am getting ready for a trip up the cape I thought hell I'll put a clutch in it now before we go .
So I ordered a clutch and being a mechanic one late night after work I pulled it apart and found the clutch to be not so bad .
But I'm already there so I had the flywheel ground and re fitted the gearbox , only to find when I started the vehicle that I could not get a gear at all ! A bit cranky I then bleed the system ( even though I had not undone any lines ). Still no good ! So being even crankier at this stage I read the instructions with clutch kit and found that if this happens follow theses checks and then if all those things appen replace the "clutch dampener" on the fire wall , which apparently can stop the save cylinder from completing its full travel
So next day I order " clutch dampener"
Next day Toyota ring and say didn't turn up ( insert very cranky man)
Finally receive part , fit to ute and same problem still
So I adjusted the master cylinder to make it "driveabe " and since have spoken to supplier of clutch and have now changed clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and you guessed it same problem! Still hard to get gears
I have been told they are a hard vehicle to bleed but I have tried pressure bleeding or reverse bleeding ad the old fashioned pump and release but I am not getting any where and I am about ready to pull te gearbox out again and make sure that all parts are correct

Has anyone had any similar issues or any tips for bleeding these ?

[Wing]

I had gear change noise recently. I replaced the slave and master cylinders only to find out that the clutch accumulator (=clutch damper) was faulty. Changed that damper. Gear change noise disappeared. My ten year one son helped me to bleed the clutch using the traditional method and a modern method. That is, press pedal, open bleeding screw, close bleeding screw, release pedal and repeat. After fluid started to come out, I attached a non-return bleeding kit, top up the reservoir and quickly cycle the pedal for 50 times. It is now good but a bit heavy. But no problem in driving. I am still thinking how to make the clutch as light as a corolla one, like the hilux I drive at work.

The clutch of the hilux at my work place was recently serviced/changed by toyota, the clutch is as light as a corolla one. I am not sure whether I have bleeded it correctly. Or my own clutch is heavier than the stock one.

Also, I have noted the travel of clutch push rod from the slave cylinder on my hilux is about 1 cm after bleeding. If you changed the master cylinder, you should adjust the pedal height to about 180 mm, push rod play=1-5 mm and clutch play about 10 mm. I think you have done so as you are capable of pulling the gear box out, I cannot imagine I can do that.

In conclusion, I do not think hilux clutch is difficult to bleed and I am a very average DIY mechanic.

Hope this helps.

[danmcccc]

bypass the dampner...Marshwa, one of the other member had his start to leak so his mechanic bypassed it...he was concerned about it maybe causing problems, so i did some research and found its very common in the performance world to bypass them as they slow down actuation...so dont be scared to work around it

btw both your problems sound like adjustment and thats all...if you didnt touch the fluid or it lines then it shouldnt be the problem

Dan

[Chrischater]

Yes Dan that's what I thought but I adjusted and adjusted.but it just isn't right the only way I coud get a gear was by removing free travel to get extra travel at the slave cylinder , hence the reason why I am thinking something may be wrong with the clutch itself . Or the flywheel may have been machined too many times and now below min thickness

[danmcccc]

if its a heavy duty clutch and the slave has a few k's under its belt it might need resealing?? as the new clutch might need a lil more pressure to actuate and the slave might not be up to it

[kickinback]

Did you replace the thrust bearing? If so was it the same thickness as the original?

[Chrischater]

Did you replace the thrust bearing? If so was it the same thickness as the original?

Yes I did and I believe it was the same size .
Have been speaking to supplier and a they have given me a replacement clutch kit as they think it may be faulty so my Friday night will be spent changing the clutch again !

[Chrischater]

Well an update
I have changed the clutch again. And it's perfect now instantly no adjusting or mucking around at all .
Now to move onto more fun stuff !

[bentunit]

i have got the same problem , clutch drags after h/d replacement fitted . instructions with kit say this is common with lux and rodeo fitted with a damper . i had a spare damper so i pulled it apart to find how it worked , the "damper" appears to nothing more than a pocket of air that cant be bleed out . when a H/D clutch is fitted a higher pedal effort is needed , therefore compressing the air more leaving less travel with drag being the result . i think removing/ bypassing the unit would fix the problem , you would need two brake pipe joiners and very tight short bend . i just modified mine by by drilling between the two passages and filling the air space with 3 bond , will be fitting today . ill let you know how it went .

[Wing]

After reading bentunit post, I dismantled my replaced damper and found that Bentunit is right. Unless the hilux is tilted 90 degree to the left, you can't bleed the air out from the damper.

Bentunit, how did you drill a hole between the two passage? Where did you start drilling?

[bentunit]

After reading bentunit post, I dismantled my replaced damper and found that Bentunit is right. Unless the hilux is tilted 90 degree to the left, you can't bleed the air out from the damper.

Bentunit, how did you drill a hole between the two passage? Where did you start drilling?

I got a small tap to remove the "brass seat" then drill away . i used 3 bond to fill the chamber at the back but you could use compatable rubber ?
]just to update , after modding the damper and bleeding, it made only slight differance , (but noticable) i then looked further . When fitting a new clutch the extra pedal effort compresses the rubber disc on the cluch master cylinder push rod and looses quite a bit of travel . Being a tight arse i drilled (i couldnt get mine appart) a few holes in the plastic and picked as much rubber out as i could just filled it with araldite .

[bentunit]

clutch works great now.

[djdino]

Sorry for the thread bump.

I have a 06 Hilux SR and have noticed the clutch is great for the 1st few shifts and then becomes notchy, I have changed my brake and clutch fluid a while ago (genuine toyota fluid) and the clutch felt fantastic then went back to poo.

I am thinking the accumulator is causing the issues, is there any issue just replacing/bypassing the accumulator with a block or longer hardline ?

[gammo42]

Has anyone got some step by step instructions on how to bleed the clutch? My new HD Clutch is awesome but I need to fully depress the pedal to engage the clutch. I am thinking that a fresh bleed may give me more pedal.

Gammo

[leghorn]

adjusting the position from "pedal to master cylinder" increase pedal stroke improved new clutch operation.
This will need further adjusting after clutch beds in after early use

method = undo clevis pin, loosen lock nut to master cylinder pushrod....increase travel distance(spin pushrod anticlockwise to gain more travel etc)
tighten locknut
re-attach clevis pin. Adjust stop bolt to allow 1.5mm free travel.
for heavy duty clutches mostly..... standard clutches will not need this adjustment made

test and re-adjust if needed