NewHilux.net

Is it just me or do none of the pics show up on this?

danholt wrote:Is it just me or do none of the pics show up on this?

The webiste where the images were linked from was taken down, hence them not showing.

Just wanted to say that I have just finished changing the seal on the passengers side. I used this guide and it couldn't have been easier. The hardest part was pulling the old seal out. Just wanted to say thanks to Max for sharing this info.

Cheers
Guch

it would be great if we could get the pictures back up again.

just did this at home, took me 40 min, i just undone the cv and lower two nuts on the lower control arm.
and pulled the cv out but twisting the steering.
then changed my diff oil.

Has anyone had a problem with the carrier bearings in the front differential?

My truck (2007 3.0l 4WD) has just covered 100,000miles (160,000km's) and there is a rumbling sound coming from the front when driven.
Initially i thought it was the Right wheel bearing but changing it made no difference.
I had the Right drive shaft checked and regreased, that was alright. And now have noticed that the Left drive shaft inner CV joint has a lot of movement in it but more worryingly so does the end of the diff where the CV goes in

Here's a little video (excuse the clip as I repacked the CV joint with grease and didn't have a replacement clip to hand)

mines solid as a rock, it should not move like that.

Quick question. I have a repco CV at the moment but want to swap it for a VMN one as the boots are perishing . problem is i can't get the repco one out. have followed the instructions but it must be the c clip thats inside the diff thats holding it on... Ive been levering it out with a crowbar against my bash plate and using a hammer to tap it out but it won't budge anyone have any tips???

Get 2 descent size flat screw drivers and wedge then in either side of the inner cv against the housing and lever it out. Should do the trick.

Bigger hammer!

boxhead55 wrote:Bigger hammer!

X2

Busted my CV on the weekend at the inner join. The casing stayed intact, but the round bearing things busted and blew out the boot. As the shaft was still located in the casing I was able to limp out. Couple of questions:
- to change the trackside, would I need to carry 2 spares (L and R) as they seem to be different parts.
- would all the diff oil leak out, needing replacing too?
- on top of my normal kit, I just need a 35mm socket for hub nut?

I am getting it fixed, and looking at Drivetech replacement. Has anyone used these?

Cheers

The cv axle is interchangeable from left to right. So you only need the one.
Oil will leak out when you remove it but just top it up when you get home.
The 35 ml socket and a descent breaker bar as they can be very tight.
Also 2 reasonable flat screwdrivers can be an advantage in removing the cv from the diff housing. Again that circlip holding the cv in place can prove a bugger to get out sometimes.
Also a bottle jack can help holding up the lca when you release.
Another handy piece is keep the outer cv off your broken one and cut it down as an emergency spare. You don't want to drive with the hole cv removed as the hub assembly can collapse You learn by your own mistakes

kyle300exc wrote:The cv axle is interchangeable from left to right. So you only need the one.
Oil will leak out when you remove it but just top it up when you get home.
The 35 ml socket and a descent breaker bar as they can be very tight.
Also 2 reasonable flat screwdrivers can be an advantage in removing the cv from the diff housing. Again that circlip holding the cv in place can prove a bugger to get out sometimes.
Also a bottle jack can help holding up the lca when you release.
Another handy piece is keep the outer cv off your broken one and cut it down as an emergency spare. You don't want to drive with the hole cv removed as the hub assembly can collapse You learn by your own mistakes

Also learnt this one the hard way.. the inner part of the Cv closest to the diff popped out on a bad angle under full lock (Just heard a pop on landing on the right wheel) was in the worst spot and had next to no tools so hard to scull drag it up this gnarly hill by a patrol The cv ended up binding and bent my lower strut slightly (Is this ok to still drive on?).. then once i removed it on level ground i thought i was home free..

I kept driving for ages before i noticed my brakes were getting really spongy so i checked fluids all good, then checked the wheel and noticed it was on an irregular angle and after looking at it I then realized the end of the cv needed to be refitted to hold the bearing together by then i think it was to late and the caliper was grinding on my rotor..

What would need replacing? obviously the cv but would it just be a case of replacing the wheel bearing or could I need a hub kit also? Tryed to do some research on this but how hard are the bearing to replace? are they just remove and refit?

Cheers Skottie

Front Bearings are not difficult to replace.

What is difficult is finding a workshop with a press that will accept the size of the hub to press the bearings off.

thats the hard part,

If it were me Id be replacing the hub bearing, from memory they were only about $80 I could be wrong I think I used a Repco one.

Cost me $120 from Repco with a trade discount bout 2 months back. Thats one side.

So there's two different bearings inside? there's a wheel bearing then the hub bearing? If you replace the hub bearing this bypasses the need for a press?

Got the break on video too check it out.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKJL5Pmuqq0

The inner boot on mine went today. I have repco shafts. I have a 2" lift and to me the the repco boots need one more rib on the inner boot to allow flex, even at stock height.

Will a toyota boot fit on the recpo shaft? Or will it be a couple of mm difference just to be a pain!!

What is the best brand boot to go with?