NewHilux.net

good stuff...nothing like some WD40 to help get that shaft in

on a serious note....at times when things seem to be getting too difficult...waling away for a breather/smoke/coffee sometimes helps.

OEM driveshaft are by far the strongest.
Repco have a good warranty, but really soft weak rubber boots, not covered by warranty if a stick tears it.
My driveshaft specialists recommend I use only genuine Toyota Driveshafts for 4x4's, because they are far stronger and better quality. They have tough flexible plastic, dustboots.

On my lux, my experience is: the Repco shaft did not turn freely once the angle went past stock full extension, it actually got to a point, it would not turn.
With the genuine shaft, and suspension fully extended it turned freely.
This is not to say it wont climb out of the inner cup, which is what happens that causes many failures.

I do have a Toyota Genuine shaft for sale, it was my spare, sold my lux, don't need it!
It is advertised on this website $300.00.

mmaaxx wrote:on a serious note....at times when things seem to be getting too difficult...waling away for a breather/smoke/coffee sometimes helps.

Not a truer word spoken! It's amazing what a meal and sit down for an hour can do to your mind.

Slowlux wrote:Repco have a good warranty, but really soft weak rubber boots, not covered by warranty if a stick tears it.

Yeah the Repco rubber looks pathetic compared to OEM.
Toyota sell a CV boot kit with inner and outer boot with clamps and grease for $180 (retail)... could be worth keeping in spares toolbox when touring

Thanks for making this Max was a good read and is going to help me out alot on saturday, Question when i busted the cv i had a small amount of oil come out is this anything to worry about or is it just that it's came past the seal and when i put the new cv in and refill the diff oil all will be sweet. Happy for any responses.

CJY91LUXXY wrote:Thanks for making this Max was a good read and is going to help me out alot on saturday, Question when i busted the cv i had a small amount of oil come out is this anything to worry about or is it just that it's came past the seal and when i put the new cv in and refill the diff oil all will be sweet. Happy for any responses.

did the seal look alright??? you'll soon know if its no good coz it will certainly leak if its U/S

Mate I would be grabbing a new seal anyway and swapping over, there are new revised seals now. There under 30 bucks from Toyota! The last thing you want is to put a new cv in and for the thing to leak!

Jack S wrote:Mate I would be grabbing a new seal anyway and swapping over, there are new revised seals now. There under 30 bucks from Toyota! The last thing you want is to put a new cv in and for the thing to leak!

I took the part numbers for the revised seals (as posted by max) to my local stealers and they didn't have a clue that there was even an upgraded seal. They still managed to source it for me though. I wouldn't bother getting the revised one in the future, they're more expensive and the original seal managed to survive a trip to Cape York alright so I see no pay more for something that does the same job.

Eitherway, as Jack said, a new seal is a must and is seriously a 30 second job.

amitch888 wrote:I got my spare from a cv from a cv specialist in Bendigo for $170. He said repco ones aren't to bad for strength except the rubber boot quality isn't as good. He also said that the oem are probably still the best quality ones over both his and repco.

If anyone wants a second hand spare, a TOYOTA one, I have one for sale it is advertised on this site.

great work maxx! really helpful

Jack S wrote:Mate I would be grabbing a new seal anyway and swapping over, there are new revised seals now. There under 30 bucks from Toyota! The last thing you want is to put a new cv in and for the thing to leak!

Yeh as I have just found out..... Foolishly

Hey are there any tricks so I can get trade price at repco for drive shaft? Also does the diff oil have to be drained?

rsearle84 wrote:Hey are there any tricks so I can get trade price at repco for drive shaft? Also does the diff oil have to be drained?

Tell them you want trade price

Nah don't really need to drain diff oil unless you think you got some crap in there. you may need to top it up though as i lost a fair bit out of mine when i pulled out the shaft and wore it all over my face... If you do the job on level ground or jack up the side your doing a bit higher so the oil leans back should be right.

Cheers thanks jack, I thought asking for trade they would ask where I work, as thats what reece do when I buy my work gear from them...

ha ha I hate paying retail even though I'm not a mechanic lol

One more questions gents, just want to make sure noise is cv,

I have replaced wheel bearing and the humming grinding noise has gone and the wheel doesn't shake, I also replaced the disc and cleaned everything,

but I have this clunking type noise, (dooga doooga ) only makes noise when rolling, if accelerating can't here it, if braking can't here it, just when rolling, noise does seem louder in 4wd high!

I do also have some kind of fluid sprayed over part of the inner boot and chassis, can't seem to find a split though!

Anyway a very big thanks for any thoughts, cheers Rowan

Any chance of the original pictures being re posted?
Seems that server no longer exists.

Hi
I have the dreaded CV click whilst turning should I be looking at replacing both the inner and outer or is it more likely to be one and not the other?
Cheers

well i finally changed my cv last weekend. it had been clicking pretty badly for the past few months. These instructions were great!! although i had a bit of trouble getting the inner out of the diff. i ended up attaching a ratchet strap to the outer end of the cv and tightening the strap with a fair bit of force and it popped out. I noticed that as soon as the inner was out oil started to dribble out of the void. Not sure if that is suppose to happen but put the new cv back in with a few taps with a rubber mallet for the inner to get seated and then popped the outer in very easily and put everything back together then topped up the diff oil (about 300mL). Haven't noticed any leaks from around the seal so hopefully all is well again haven't tested it out 4wding yet though. I replaced it with a VMN cv so lets see how it goes

Thanks for the great instructions, fool proof

Link not working- what is the torque setting for the hub nut please?

Drive shaft retaining nut is 235nM from the workshop manual