NewHilux.net

35mm 1/2" socket. Genius brand, or something like that. Six point.
1/2" breaker bar. You can purchase these items separately.
Make sure you loosen the nut on the hub before you jack the vehicle up.
You can always get someone to apply the brakes if you forget this.
The circlip can be a bugger, and you may have to tape the diff side of the CV assembly, to get the shaft out of the differential. I do this with a dumpy hammer.
I have a set of Dawn ply bars, and they don't bend like some other brands.
I prefer the GSP brand over the Repco brand, for the CV shaft assembly. You can't beat the Genuine units for strength.
Any vehicles with more then a 2" lift, need to have a differential drop kit installed, to correct the angle of the two CV shafts.
For boots, the genuine Toyota boots are the best. TMC do have the best rubber products.
Hope this helps, the Roo.

Found this video. My mechanical knowledge is almost zero (but has gotten a LOT better since buying the hilux and surfing this forum daily), so please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this the same (or similar) front end as our hiluxs?
http://youtu.be/BawuxQHhTGs

Also, I'm sure I'm not the first to find these
http://www.smithiesoutback.com.au/DTS-5 ... N-4X4.html
3 year 60k warranty. Too good to be true? Want to get one for a spare, at that price it seems like pretty cheap insurance?

Hi guys just after a tip on a problem I have with my cv and I can't find any info. I started to here a rattle and upon inspection found the passenger cv doesnt seem to be seated in the diff housing properly and has a lot of play and wobbles it isn't leaking and I'm having trouble removing the cv from the housing. Joints are all fine it just seems to be were it connects into the diff. What is the most likly problem? Dammaged split ring or spline or could the diff bearings be gone?

As far as I know they do have a fair bit of movement on the passenger side, I know mine does! Doesn't make any noise tho. Probably not worth the mention but I ask my toyota service guy a while ago and he said he gets asked that all the time, he said it'd normal.

Yeah there is a bit of movement in my friends hilux (same model) but mind also looks like it's sitting 5-10mm out of where it should be and there is a lot more play than my friends, still there is no leak and it won't pull out

Hi guys, just replaced the seal in passenger side but can't get the shaft to go all the way back in. Any ideas?

Lube (wd40).... lots of it, jiggle that shaft and wack it in!

Pretty good You Tube video. A couple of other things. I like to take the opportunity to replace the differential housing seals.
Be careful of the speed sensor harness on the SR5s. Matter of fact, it's a good idea to disconnect it. Make sure you take of the negative terminal on the main battery, before you do any disconnecting of plugs.
The open side of the snap ring should be in the down position before you install the drive shaft into the front differential.
The lower ball joint bolts x 2 torque value is 160Nms.
The 35mm hub nut tension is 235Nms.
The Tire rod end to steering knuckle nut is 91Nms.
The spline that goes into the differential, and the snap ring, coat with diff oil.
The outer spline that goes into the hub, coat with Copper Eze or Silver Eze.
The Roo.

Hi guys are the front driveshafts the same length ?

Yep, both are the same length

Hey fellas.... I just re-read this thread as I'm having all sorts of trouble getting the ball joint on the steering rod to let go... But it seems from this thread that I may be able to get away with leaving this attached???
Which two 19mm bolts do I actually need to undo to get the hub assembly to swing out of the way?

Thanks again.

Rite on the bottom either side of the lower ball joint.

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Got it.. Thanks heaps... Just about to have my 10th attempt at getting the new shaft into the diff... Not having much luck.

The Lower Ball Joint Bolts x 2, should thread lock or something similar be applied to the thread when re-assembling?

Shouldn't need thread lock if torqued properly.

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Thanks mate.

Hey guys, I just replaced my drive shafts, went for a test drive 5-10 min, on my return i went to take a looks and I noticed that the while hub was to HOT to touch, this was on both sides.
I proceeded to check everything again, took the brake caliper apart and checked it all.I went for another short drive and it was super hot again.

Any ideas?

Hi did you repack the wheel bearings and what car.

06 SR5 dual cab V6. Nope, did not touch the W/Bearing.
Would to much tension in the end of the drive shaft cause the W/Bearing to tighten?

Thanks for the guide guys! Replaced mine last night, took about 1.5 hours for my first try. Not as daunting as I thought it would be. Need to invest in a torque wrench, going by elbow clicks isn't ideal.