How to replace a driveshaft

[dermy]

on the brake a little and gas in 4wd and it just snapped

[fourby4diesel]

I have to see your diff angle

[dermy]

wow that was piss easy to change.

ended up getting a repco one for trade price 132$ normaly 217$

[fourby4diesel]

Told you youd say it was easy!
And your wheel turns at full hang no worries??

[dermy]

yeh seems fine.. guess I'll just see what happens next time I take it out

[Jack S]

Mate i got the repco ones in both sides, with a 4" lift and drop diff bracket and havent had a problem yet with them, i am sure you will be fine..... But you certainly did a good job at snapping it, well done!

[fourby4diesel]

F.Y.I Dermy's won't turn at extension either.
His diff is up at the drivers side same as mine.

[fourby4diesel]

New theory: high rotational force like 4low in 1st, add any angle, forces diff in opposite direction to angle of shaft (up) This happens a lot and slowly the weak mount gets bent up, (at the thin part near rubber), then the angle is always bad, one day you Load it up, like lockers or using brakes, it goes ka"Ching!
This happened to dermy and myself the same, not extended! But brakes, both have what looks like really bent drivers side mount!
Passenger side looks more rigid, Aldo a mount at the rear to reduce the twist.
That's why when u make a new drivers side bracket that goes to the rear crossmember, it is then secure and you stop breaking so much so easy!

[Jordan]

Is it really a 35mm socket you need Mmaaxx ? I got told by Toyota it's a 36mm. 35mm is very hard to find

[dermy]

yeh it really is 35mm a good 36mm will work.. a repco replacement is 36mm

[MADDOG]

What's the consensus on the Repco shafts? Are they up to the task on the tracks?

[dermy]

I've had one in for awhile now and given it hell through wombat and tallarook and I can't really fault it..
it does make some strange noises sometimes but hey it hasn't broken.. I do however have an oem one I'm going to put in when I do my diff seals

[amitch888]

I got my spare from a cv from a cv specialist in Bendigo for $170. He said repco ones aren't to bad for strength except the rubber boot quality isn't as good. He also said that the oem are probably still the best quality ones over both his and repco.

[RonBacardi8]

Just to add....the Monster Rides Driveshaft Tool is an awesome bit of gear to have in your offroad toolkit aswell. It is very strong and can be used as both a breaker bar, chisel, and has a 35mm single hex cutout thats perfect for the driveshaft nut -

Who do I speak too about getting one?

[Jack S]

Get onto matt or max (monster rides) one of them will be able to get the tools for you!

Maddog, I've had the repcos in for a while (as you probably know) and haven't had a problem with then at all. Actually I did have one issue, but that was a manufacturing fault and they replaced in in warrenty. But as for off road and what I've put it through it hasn't cause me an issue at all! Mitchs comment is correct about the boots, mine are already starting to crack and perish on the inner ribs. Not sure what the warrenty is in the boot itself....

[jakelux]

OK busted left hand CV in the bush yesterday (A story for another time ) got a repco one for $150!!!
MMAAXX thankyou, this thread was a blessing getting the old one out!
Now comes the hard part, I'm havin' a real hard time getting the new one into the diff. Any tips? i have given quite a bit of force and a few nice 'taps' with chisel and hammer on the recessed ribs on the driveshaft cup but that sucker just doesn't want to go in... i really don't think i should have to belt the absolute shit out of it?

[Hilux Max]

The C-clip on the inner shaft spline should be positioned ideally with the open side facing downwards before you push it into the diff housing/center.

it shouldn;t need anymore force than a couple hard shoves with your hands. if not, carefully remove it out again as to not damage the drivehshaft seal on the housing and try again.

[jap]

Sounds like the clip is catching, check it for burrs, clean it up and test the crush by hand to make sure it will reduce in diameter in enough to allow the stub to slip in to the diff.

[jakelux]

Sounds like the clip is catching, check it for burrs, clean it up and test the crush by hand to make sure it will reduce in diameter in enough to allow the stub to slip in to the diff.

Jap, i reckon it's something like that... will suss it out once i put the little one to bed
Looks like I'll be pullin' a late one if i wanna drive to work tomorrow..

I should note that taking the old one out of diff housing took major 'tapping with a modified 4mm steel bar and mallet.. probabbly about as hard a 'tap' as you could give something whilst laying on your back under a fourby with diff oil dripping into your eyes!! (yes i should of drained the diff first )

[jakelux]

Jap and max thankyou!
That bloody c-clip was given me all the grief. Gave it a good once over with wd40 to clear out any debris etc, squeezed the clip a couple of times with vice grips to see it was closing (may of loosened it .001 of a mm??) and when i slid the shaft back in was very carefull as to keep the open side of the c-clip facing down, gave it a slight 'tap' just to get it over the line and "voila!" she's in.