NewHilux.net

If you can save big dollars from us ild be interested in the part number to order one

I'm useless with different diff and gearbox codes but does this help anyone?

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/ ... 128302.pdf

Mine is getting fitted next Monday in the rear.
I sold my TJM pro locker to fund a E locker because I didn't want to mount a compressor in my new ute.

Also when people hear a compressor fire up before an obstacle they know what you have, I'm hoping a silent flick of a switch will keep people wondering.

Front one wont be to far away either

did you buy yours in aust?

angusjones8 wrote:Mine is getting fitted next Monday in the rear.
I sold my TJM pro locker to fund a E locker because I didn't want to mount a compressor in my new ute.

Also when people hear a compressor fire up before an obstacle they know what you have, I'm hoping a silent flick of a switch will keep people wondering.

Front one wont be to far away either

Silent or not, you can tell pretty quickly if your cheating, when you lift a rear wheel and it just keeps turning at the appropriate road speed and you keep driving forward nice and steady, we all know the locker is activated

autolocker = no buttons

love my secret weapon!

kizza1 wrote:did you buy yours in aust?

Yeh opposite lock.

packeteer wrote:autolocker = no buttons

love my secret weapon!

And no "will I, won't I" decisions. Just working for you all the time.

They do put 100% of the driving torque to the inside wheel when turning though. Not perfect for WIH (Woman In Hurry)

angusjones8 wrote:Mine is getting fitted next Monday in the rear.
I sold my TJM pro locker to fund a E locker because I didn't want to mount a compressor in my new ute.

Also when people hear a compressor fire up before an obstacle they know what you have, I'm hoping a silent flick of a switch will keep people wondering.

Front one wont be to far away either

Locker is in and love it.
After having a air locker its a bit funny being silent.

angusjones8 wrote:

angusjones8 wrote:Mine is getting fitted next Monday in the rear.
I sold my TJM pro locker to fund a E locker because I didn't want to mount a compressor in my new ute.

Also when people hear a compressor fire up before an obstacle they know what you have, I'm hoping a silent flick of a switch will keep people wondering.

Front one wont be to far away either

Locker is in and love it.
After having a air locker its a bit funny being silent.

yeah its pitch silent ... in the front, the heavier steering is usually a dead giveaway

Just wanted to get an update on prices - the only prices I could find on here were 4-5 years old.

Whats the cost like to have front and rear purchased/installed?

Can someone also explain a little more to me how they work - i've already looked at youtube and watched eaton's clip and understand the mechanics of it all, but still kinda worried about the whole electronic part of it all with mud/water. The internals are all still protected as per usual right? Looking at getting one - never had a locker before!

yes mate internals are protected (assuming the installer does his job properly), and frankly if your diff gets full of water or mud... youve got way bigger problems than worrying about the locker

In an "open diff" scenario (which is what hilux has) ... the left and right wheels are able to spin at different speeds. This is called full slip.

WHen the engine delivers torque to the diff, the torque / force makes its way via path of least resistance.. aka the wheel usually that has the least amount of traction. On road this doesnt mean much (unless you love fish tail burnouts)

what this means, when offroading, if you have a wheel that's got no traction (in the air, or in loose mud sand)... that's the wheel that gets all the torque .. Kind of silly right? ... i mean, it'd be nice if both the wheels got the delivery, especially considering the other one probably has lots of traction and isn't in the air.

Along comes differential locking ... a little bit of gear that locks the left and right to each other, same speed ... whatever power comes through from the engine is given to left and right wheels , no matter what!

It installs into the differential and is activated either by electronic solenoid, air solenoid, or in some cases "automatically" by an internal resistance mechanism (means you have no control over when it engages though... and tends to make the car a bit of a bucking bronco on sealed roads around corners etc.. not best if your mrs drives it or you like your back tyres).

This locking mechanism obviously helps you because you have true torque delivery to both the wheels (and indeed all four if you're locked front and back) ... and makes the vehicle much more capable offroad (it also comes with a few risks, but you'll learn them later).

As to air vs electronic... its been argued since jesus was a boy, and even he still cries.
My personal opinion is that there's less to fail with an electrical system, it's either plugged in or it's not. Properly plumbed wiring shouldn't easily get torn.
WIth air delivery system, the very nature of air lines makes them a bit more prone to injury because the air is constantly trying to bust out... blow seals, hoses, clamps and such.
This is just personal opinion, and frankly air or E... both are fine when they're working all OK.

WIht some of the older hiluxes, the rear diff had an LSD ... a limited slip differential .. it's sort of mid way between a completely open diff and a fully locked one... the diff would try and deliver torque to both... to a point , but then it'd give up.

So the modern hiluxes got rid of the LSD and introduced traction control which is supposed to sort of do the same job as a locker or LSD by braking the wheel which has no traction and force the torque through to the other wheel... the reality is it's haphazard and lack lustre... nothing replaces a properl locking mechanism.

hope this sort of helps.

Wow, thats a wall of text if I've ever seen one, but well worth the read - cheers.

Don't worry - I understand how Jesus feels after already reading the pros and cons and people's opinions on here about air vs E. I understand how the whole locking part works, but you've certainly cleared up any other question I could've asked haha.

I'm still get out of the hilux to lock the hubs in and put it into 4x4 and then realise, duhh i'm in a new hilux now - just sold my old 92 baby, so upgrading to the current shape definitely came with a lot more bells and whistles for me haha!

What are the costs like to get front and rear locked?

sorry for the WOT, but you did ask "Can someone also explain a little more to me how they work" I type as fast as I talk

costs vary wildly mate. front costs more because it's a bit of a headf*&K.

just shop around mate. Try places like ARB (air), Opposite Lock,, etc etc

Personally i got mine from IronMan (it's just a rebadged harrop/eaton) and had a local diff shop do mine in Perth.

I think i got raped on price frankly, but that's because we hit some issues (there were instructions missing) and it took the diff guy longer... and because i'd provided the locker, that cost was on me (not a fixed price job).

I'd stick with getting it all supplied fitted and warrented by the same shop to avoid issues if anything goes wrong.

Arb have deals at the moment, $995 or somewhere around that per locker plus install. Another good deal if you need a compressor thrown in.

For my elocker it was about $1400 per locker to purchase, install for the rear was $280 including bearings. Install on the front locker alone I'm not sure of because I had ratios changed at the same time, install for all ratios and lockers was $950 including new rear wheel bearings and seals.

I didn't have opposite lock install them, had a local diff specialist do that work.

sorry for the WOT, but you did ask "Can someone also explain a little more to me how they work" I type as fast as I talk

Check your fingers - do you have any burns on them because they must've been firing haha!

For my elocker it was about $1400 per locker to purchase, install for the rear was $280 including bearings. Install on the front locker alone I'm not sure of because I had ratios changed at the same time, install for all ratios and lockers was $950 including new rear wheel bearings and seals.

Cheers for the pricing!

jaydo wrote:

sorry for the WOT, but you did ask "Can someone also explain a little more to me how they work" I type as fast as I talk

Check your fingers - do you have any burns on them because they must've been firing haha!

For my elocker it was about $1400 per locker to purchase, install for the rear was $280 including bearings. Install on the front locker alone I'm not sure of because I had ratios changed at the same time, install for all ratios and lockers was $950 including new rear wheel bearings and seals.

Cheers for the pricing!

ha ha nah mate, just a byproduct of my trade... can touch type with my eyes closed a million miles an hour ... can type as fast as i talk, literally...

Couldn't find any photos of an installed Elocker so I thought I would post mine.
I put it in today and took these before I lifted it up and in.
Rear of a 2010 model SR5 D4D.

This one is showing the wiring grommet from inside the housing.


Top view showing where I routed the wires and the locating tabs.


Side view

Would it void toyotas warranty if we were to get an e locker installed?? It's always a big question with doing internal stuff to your cars! Mmm??

Just a suggestion for older vehicles (mine is 2007), it is a good idea to replace the diff bearings including the pinion bearing at the same time as you install the E Locker. Only takes a little bit longer. Just need a low reading torque wrench and DTI to set it back up. Most of the pinion bearing kits come with a new crush tube.