NewHilux.net

Just ticked over 10K
9.9 to 10 kpl.
Left it in poxy 'ECO' mode for a full tank for $hits and giggles. No difference, except it feels like you're driving a car with the handbrake half stuck on with an elastic drive train.
POWER mode should be the default setting.
You blokes returning figures in the mid 8's must be driving like grandma..

Hardly, drive it like I stole it... 8.6 current average..


Hutch- 2016 Toyota Hilux D4D Auto Dual Cab - Red, it goes faster...

In the city you should be around 11 (I am), unless your a lead foot and then your up over 12.
In the country I would expect to be in the 8s.

I have roughly 3,800kms on the clock and only getting around 650kms 2016 SR5 with ARB bullbar and Toyota fibreglass canopy! Very disappointed in it! Only allows me to put between 65-68 litres in it!

Dave_o wrote:Just ticked over 10K
9.9 to 10 kpl.
Left it in poxy 'ECO' mode for a full tank for $hits and giggles. No difference, except it feels like you're driving a car with the handbrake half stuck on with an elastic drive train.
POWER mode should be the default setting.
You blokes returning figures in the mid 8's must be driving like grandma..

There's a video on YouTube where these two blokes do a 0-100 kph test and it's actually quicker in ECO mode. Simply because of the transmission map. Disappointing if it's true.

I drive mine in Eco all the time. It changes up earlier and pulls better, the torque is better lower down


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4x4 Single cab with steel tray, bull-bar etc with 6000 on the clock. Getting 9.0-9.5 around town, 8.8-9.0 on long high speed country trips. That's just driving normally, no fuel saving measures involved. The ECO button never gets used.

For mine, around 30 mpg for a 2 ton vehicle with bad aerodynamics is brilliant. In the previous 4 litre V6 I was getting around 13 l/100 or 20 mpg in the same situation. With the relative costs of petrol vs diesel and the different usage rates my fuel costs have almost halved with the diesel.

Only gripe is that reverse could be lower geared to make it easier to back trailers but I can live with it as it is.

I have the same ute and I get approx 10L/100km with city/little bit of highway driving
That's with full bar work and a 127L ARB tank

Has anyone had any luck with finding out if there is an official "fix" coming?

Pretty poor form from Toyota advertising the car with an 80lt tank when realistically we can only safely/confidently use 60-65 of it before succumbing to the fear of running dry because the DTE is inaccurate.

Mine is a 2015 SR5 DC Manual 2.8, I havn't reset the average usage for about 5000kms and its been sitting steady on 8.5lt per 100. Fuel light comes on around 700kms and i tend to fill up once the DTE hits 20-30 but only ever get 62lt (65lt if trickle filling to the top of the filler neck before a decent drive).

I was getting 10.6l/100km before the gearbox upgrade/flash. Now im getting 9.4. This is country driving all the time in an auto. I once saw 8.8 but it didn't last long. Im happy to be in the 9s. I don't know how some of you guys get in the 8s. Its hopeful for me i guess.

Rjd. Just estimate how much further you will get from your tank. It's hardly living on the edge. Work out your average consumption then how many ks per tank. Totally disregard the range estimation. Do it in your head. I know when my fuel light comes on, i have about 200km until empty.

Its an 85L tank. Most people get 10l/100km. Therefore you will get 850km maximum. Fill up at 750 to 800km and you'll be fine.

StuartO wrote:Its an 85L tank.

Actually, I'm pretty sure it's 80 litres.

Yes we can all calculate based on our usage how much more we can drive once the range hits zero.

The issue I have with it is that if we want to make full use of the range, we are forced to drive beyond what the on board systems are telling us, knowing full well that if it does run out of fuel, we'd be stuck with the bill because we ignored the "refuel' warning.

I'm not one to drive for extended periods with the fuel light on but I don't think its too much to ask to have a realistically accurate fuel light and range to empty, I'd then be happy to take the blame for running out should i choose to run the gauntlet beyond the big E.

rjd wrote:The issue I have with it is that if we want to make full use of the range, we are forced to drive beyond what the on board systems are telling us, knowing full well that if it does run out of fuel, we'd be stuck with the bill because we ignored the "refuel' warning.

I'm not one to drive for extended periods with the fuel light on but I don't think its too much to ask to have a realistically accurate fuel light and range to empty, I'd then be happy to take the blame for running out should i choose to run the gauntlet beyond the big E.

You'd be stuck with the bill for running out of fuel irrespective of whether the gauge provided a reasonable baseline for distance to empty or not.

I see this as a nuisance issue that I assume will be fixed. It's not a major flaw.

I went from 7.6-7.8 to 8.8 just before my 40000km service. They found my DPF blocked and needs to be changed out and I'm waiting for the part to arrive.

In the mean time Toyota's set my ute to regen every 200km and hence the economy is holding now at 8.8L/100km.

I'm surprised how the DPF could block, I do a 23km one way run to work and that has about 15km of 100km/h highway in the middle of the trip.

Would have thought that's an ideal run, that give the car an easy warm up, a good clean constant speed run to clear the DPF and then a cool down prior to stopping.

Then the process is repeated again at the end of the day, 5 days a week. Does anyone see anything wrong with that?

I wonder if its to do with fuel quality? Does lesser quality diesel have more impurities that contribute?

100% 80lt tank

Marco76 wrote:

StuartO wrote:Its an 85L tank.

Actually, I'm pretty sure it's 80 litres.

Yep it is 80 litres. Just for what it is worth I have done this on three occasions now most have been short trips when the low fuel red light comes on I hit the trip recorder back to zero, the fuel gauge is still well to the right of E refuel now comes on much later just ignore it on each of the three occasions I have filled up with fuel between 145 k to 155k showing on the trip recorder at this point the fuel needle is the thickness of itself to the left of E plus may be 1 mm amount of fuel to fill was 71 to 72 litres so still leaving 8 to 9 litres in tank which I think is far enough to push fate, possibly could get to 200k on trip meter to dry as for muck, water, bits of rust, in bottom & any other garbage in the tank they are heavier than fuel & wether the tank is near full or near empty & the fuel has been sitting while the vehicle was parked they will all be near the fuel uptake gauze ready to be sucked up as soon as you start up.
CHEERS.

My 2016 SR auto twin cab 4wd has steel tray,bars, snorkle and weighs in at 2290 kg without my 120 kg behind the wheel.
Have AT maxxis tyres which certainly have noticeable rolling resistance compared to the original road tyres. No matter how I drive on Hume ABX to MEL and back using cruise sitting at 110, sides off the tray, slow acceleration, drive on eco setting always, etc never have achieved less than 12.2 ltr/100 km.10,000 service had dealer run diagnostics but no faults showed up. They blame weight of vehicle. My mates GMC 2500 4WD (7.6 ltr tubo diesel) around 3300 kg with similar AT tyres achieves 10.4 ltr /100 km when running together. Anyone got any ideas. Chip/block off all emissions gear,buy a Ford?

Buy a Raptor, that's the only solution !