NewHilux.net

Jabiru18
I,ve got a fuse box behind the back seat fed from 2nd battery ,then terminates from there out to worklights ,fridge outputs,.etc Ctek convertor charging the 2nd batt.
Ive got the arb tray, just looking at replacing existing battery with a optima ,what size is that 1 you,ve got in your wagon. [i

That’s a nice setup Mark. I like the idea of the fuse box behind the seat.

What fuse box did you use?

I went with the Optima D34M, only weighs 15kg and can handle the heat. It can also be used as a starting battery which is handy.

This is the mob jabiru .

https://www.baintech.com.au/baintech-6-way-fuse-block.
Mark409

Thanks Mark. Ordering one now.

has anyone hooked up the IGN cable on the ctek d250sa units? where's the best place to pick it up from???

lozza5623154 wrote:has anyone hooked up the IGN cable on the ctek d250sa units? where's the best place to pick it up from???

Don’t know what vehicle age your talking about but piggy back fuses are super handy when sourcing a ignition source.
Generally speaking when I need ignition I will use these into a not so vital circuit (cig light is usually switched) and run them from there to required point.
5-15 can’t remember but I think it’s in behind panel around steering wheel.
15+ Hilux cig socket fuse is in l/h side foot well. (White fuse block simple cover comes off)
Hope this helps.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/imag ... kiomwOsEjw




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You only need to connect the IGN wire on the D250SA if you have a smart alternator (Alternators that turn off or drop the voltage below 13v)

DrFish wrote:Hi All,

has anyone used the interVolt DC-DC system?
For and against

Cheers

Art

DrFish! i have a intervolt DC-DC in my lux, can't fault it at all, has the option for solar. gives an external display in the cab tells me what both batteries have in them and if they're charging or not and if so by how many amps. Works great

Well finally got round to doing a mod as I am headed off soon onto some rougher tracks and the aux battery in the ARB holder is considerably heavier than they are rated for.

I made the first step about a year ago when I put a small AGM battery rated at 670 CCA in as a starting battery to see how it went, amazed me at the cranking speed, and still does every time I get home on break after driving several hilux utes at work. This battery is much lighter than the AUX and the original start battery.

I have swapped their positions putting the heavier battery in the original start battery position, much stronger and the shorter starting battery fits in the ARB holder much easier.

The job was much easier than I imagined with neither starter cables needing modifying, just re routing and the first conduit mount bracked bolted on to the bolt on the oil filter housing holding another bracket perfectly, both the positive and negative starter cables were perfect length and layed in pretty well. The chassis earth went back onto the same bolt it come off.

What did(does) need extending is the positive feed to the under bonnet fuse box and the body earth cable. I have used 6B&S cable as that's all I had laying around, a little lighter than the positive cable and a lot lighter than the body earth, intended as temporary but done well because by nature if a temporary job works I never get round to changing it.

I have not given it a run yet but the only problems I can envisage are codes from voltage drop from the lighter cables but unlikely as the original cables were very large and probably over kill but it is unusual for a manufacturer to use something heavier than required but time will tell, and maybe stress from engine movement but not likely as it has reasonable slack to allow for movement.

Will post the results in time.

what's the go too recommendation for dual battery set ups these days?

I've got the redarc dc-dc (1220 i think) in the big old girl and need to set one up i the wifes 2012 2wd.
mainly going to be used for the 32l engel and maybe charging some stuff, would love to get a decent inverter but I've wanted one for ages and still haven't got one yet.


do i just get the the same redarc as mine?

another brand that does the same job?

any other hints tips and or tricks would be great.

TIA

The newest version of redarc dc-dc chargers come solar ready
Your 1220 equivalent would be the bcdc1225D worth every penny just for the simplicity of it all.


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Hey guys,
I read through this thread and it seems most people run a cteck or redarc with a aux battery on a ARB tray in the engine bay. I was thinking of getting a Arkpak to put in the tub and running some 6 gauge wires from the battery to the tub with a anderson connection to plug it into. This way I would have the battery fully portable and able to charge off various power supplies wich would be ideal for my circumstances. The pricing appears to be rougly the same. I mainly need it to run my fridge when the ute is not running. Anyone running this setup or thoughts on it would be great!

Cheers

Hey Raider,

I am running a similar system for my third battery as what you want to do in your lux tray. My system isolates the starter from second and third then has a 6b&s cable running into the back. I have used an antpac battery box, but dont recommend them unless your good at fixing electrical stuff. Arkpacks are good but pretty exxy.

Also have a look at a voltage booster, not sure what year lux you have, this has pushed my voltage up to around 14.2v from mid 13's. That'll help get some charge back there without an expensive dcdc.

One thing with the Arkpacks and the like os the 240v chargers are uselessly slow. Have a think about doing your own with a basic battery box and a small fuse panel, much cheaper. That might help in buying a bigger battery or even a decent ctek or projecta charger.

Cheer

Hi all. New to the site. Own N80 sr5 nov 2017 build.
Have just bought a redarc SBI12. Anyone have a good wiring diaghram to follow to install SBI And reccommend circuit breaker/fuses ect. Will be used to run a fridge and aux ports in tub liner. Cheers lads..

Have a good look through this thread, its been done to death.

Hi guys,

I am a complete bonehead when it comes to auto electrics and have a lead acid deep cycle battery and battery box that I now want to connect as a dual battery system in my 06 KUN26 SR5.

I will be locating the battery in the rear tub as the tub is already wired but just want to confirm what controller I should be using to charge from the alternator.

Should I use a DC-DC type or can I get away with a cheaper isolator setup?

I am only after something cheaper for now as I will look at upgrading the battery later.

Also any brand recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

A Projecta 150 will do what you want. Just make sure you run a decent pair of wires to the rear, like 35sqmm. The unit goes at your starting battery and is protected but you need a 150A fuse at the aux battery. You want the big wires as with a Projecta you can start the car off the aux battery plus it minimises the voltage drop to the back. Good idea to fit a good solar regulator in the back and a 110W panel on the roof to charge the aux battery properly.

Hi
Do it right the 1st time. It is a pay in the ass to do it a 2nd time.
Dc-dc ether redarc or ctek.
The ctek is the easiest to put in

Thanks for the info – also forgot to mention I have a 160w folding solar panel too so will use that to charge the second battery.

You don’t wan’t a dc-dc with solar if you plan to run a load like a fridge off the aux battery unless the battery is separated from the load (like a good solar regulator does). There is no need for a dc-dc converter with a lead acid aux battery.