NewHilux.net

Posted: **Sun, 18 Dec 2016 7:11 +0000**

I think the most important thing with fridges in the tub is to have them on a totally independent circuit right from the aux battery, run the cables to the socket down the opposite chassis rail to the other aux wiring and have its own circuit breaker close to the battery.

Put your other sockets powered by the aux battery and wiring on the other side.

If you ever have a rub through or wiring damage by stones etc in the fridge circuit you will have an alternative socket to plug into.

Posted: **Sun, 18 Dec 2016 7:14 +0000**

If you want it to be all neat and bit safer. Main fused wire to junction box then fused off wires to needed points. All double insulated and in split tubing cable tied up so won't move or run!

Posted: **Sun, 18 Dec 2016 7:40 +0000**

Marsh wrote:Has anyone used an Ultimate UL110-VO27 Deep Cycle Battery (AGM) before? I have an ARB battery tray.

http://www.everybattery.com.au/proddeta ... UL110-VO27

I'm putting together my dual battery system and this AGM can be fitted under the bonnet apparently... Would be keen to hear any experiences.

Yeah I've got one.. does the job
No issues with cracking and I've done a fair bit of off-road stuff no constant corigation though.

Posted: **Sun, 18 Dec 2016 7:42 +0000**

Marsh wrote:
TOYZX wrote:Pretty sure arb battery trays are rated for 25kg max! I'd double check, could be an issue! That battery weighs nearly 30kg.

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

Hmm quite a few people seem to be putting heavy AGMs in... they all appear to be in excess of 25kg. I might have to choose a different battery type.

Has any one used the Century Marine Pro 730? 25kg and 100AH. http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/mobile/shop/product/4404/n70zm.html

Any other suggestions?

UPDATE: Just ordered a Supercharge Allrounder MRV70. http://www.supercharge.com.au/allrounder-4wd-mrv70.html

Seemed to tick all the boxes: weight, size, under-bonnet suitability, amp hours and price (I got it for $189 same day delivery from a local supplier).

Glad you didn't go the century..
I had one and it leaked everywhere, it has happened to a few people on here there's a thread about it.

Posted: **Sun, 18 Dec 2016 5:31 +0000**

Yeah I found too many negative reviews on the Century.

My setup is being installed over the next few days - looking forward to seeing the results!

Posted: **Tue, 14 Mar 2017 11:15 +0000**

Hi All,
Can anyone tell me if this kit would be ok for a 2015 KUN26R?

https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/specia ... ystem.html

It i my understanding that the alternator in the Hilux is not powerful enough to charge a second battery.

Thanks.

Posted: **Tue, 14 Mar 2017 11:43 +0000**

Depends what kind of aux battery you choose, doesn't look like that kit does any more than isolate the aux when the vehicle shuts down, it is only a VSR. There is plenty written on the subject in the previous 46 pages of this thread.

Posted: **Wed, 19 Apr 2017 8:26 +0000**

Gday, ive got the new ctek 250SA pretty much the same as d250s but this one has the
Smart alternator cable which needs to connect to the ignition signal,
Has anyone got any ideAs of where ill find that?
And has anyone instlled the ctek monitor? The diagram it comes with is fine but theres only one cable going to the shunt, (negitive) the other position has a inline fuse ans goes straight to battery, ill try post a photo,
Also is 1b&s too big? I have some laying around i was gonna use, i know its an overkill properly hard to work with but will that be fine?
Thanks

Posted: **Mon, 24 Apr 2017 4:13 +0000**

muleskinner wrote:
This is my set up, it consists of a arb tray, ctek d250s dual, baintech12 terminal fuse block, and 100ah battery. The ctek is attached to the fuse box lid with heavy duty velcro for easy access, if the velcro fails I'm sure the 6mm wiring will hold the ctek in place until another solution is found.

Looks neat mate, about to install mine did you use 30a fuse i cant see any

Posted: **Fri, 21 Jul 2017 8:42 +0000**

Ok guys, im about to bite the bullet and get my dual battery system going, ok so here goes.

1. Ctek D250 dual dc-dc charger
2.arb battery tray
3. 100amp N70 batry
4. Ctek wiring kit.
5. Narva 6 way fuse box.

Is there anything else i will need? What size fuse/ circuit breaker do i run between the battery's?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted: **Fri, 21 Jul 2017 10:22 +0000**

You need two 30A fuse/breakers.

Posted: **Sat, 22 Jul 2017 4:06 +0000**

CHUTCH wrote:Ok guys, im about to bite the bullet and get my dual battery system going, ok so here goes.

1. Ctek D250 dual dc-dc charger
2.arb battery tray
3. 100amp N70 batry
4. Ctek wiring kit.
5. Narva 6 way fuse box.

Is there anything else i will need? What size fuse/ circuit breaker do i run between the battery's?

Not sure what comes in the ctek wiring kit but you will probably also need some cable for the fuse box, crimps and heatshrink also zipties and conduit to keep it neat
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted: **Sat, 22 Jul 2017 5:25 +0000**

It would be best to use manual reset circuit breakers, fuses do the job but you need spares, and if you don't find the fault before you install the spare, then you will have none.

Auto reset, when a fault it current will keep ticking on and off till they either blow apart or weld together, the latter does make it easier to find the rub through if your car hasn't burned to the ground.

God I miss fuseable link wire.

Posted: **Sat, 22 Jul 2017 10:17 +0000**

Solar Panel....

Posted: **Sun, 10 Sep 2017 8:11 +0000**

I've just installed a thumper dual battery setup mounted in the tray with 120ah AGM, vsr & circuit breaker. Should I also be installing a dcdc charger to get a full charge or can I survive without it? Have been running my waeco with no issues over ~2days. Although fuel consumption seems to be up presumably due to additional alternator use. The DCDC seems like a lot of hassle for 20% additional charge.

2014 SR diesel.

Posted: **Sun, 10 Sep 2017 9:14 +0000**

I'd be looking elsewhere for the fuel consumption, the extra alternator load wouldn't be measurable in fuel consumption. If ya running a vsr without issue then why change. The charger is more for prolonging overall battery life more than anything.

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Posted: **Fri, 29 Sep 2017 11:26 +0000**

my old man has his set up in his 14 sr

Main batt- 60amp c/b - redarc sbi12 - 60amp c/b - aux batt - 30amp c/b - junction box - with all accessories individually fused off that

He only runs fridge with max draw of 15amps light in the tub and x 2 ciggy sockets (one of which is already used by the fridge)

All battery wiring is 2bns and wiring running from aux bat to junction box in tub is 8bns

Not sure if it's over kill but it's holding fine

Posted: **Sun, 17 Dec 2017 11:10 +0000**

Great thread lots of useful info, my main take away was how much the price of the ctek 250 has gone up.. 209 > 350 or have they changed models added something?

Im using and old Isolator on my setup and no DC to DC unit, it's doing fine at the moment, dont have any issues but I'm only doing one night stays really, just running basic lights and a cf50 fridge.

Have ordered the diode fooling fuse from ebay so I can get a bit more charge will see how it goes, may have to go to ctek in future

Posted: **Fri, 05 Jan 2018 8:01 +0000**

Hi All,

has anyone used the interVolt DC-DC system?
For and against

Cheers

Art

Posted: **Thu, 08 Mar 2018 1:16 +0000**

Just installed my Dual Battery Setup, mainly to run the fridge.

Installed the Redarc unit behind the grill and popped an Anderson plug on the UTE tray.

Redarc 1225D, which gives the option for solar input.
ARB Battery Tray
Optima Battery.

Question: I want to add Work lights and a few other things, am I best to get a fusebox of some description to do this?

Whats the best/tidiest way to add extra items to the second battery?

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