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Just an update on my BCDC1220 set up. On a recent fishing trip I melted, and obviously blew, the output fuse on the brown wire (25A). Spoke to redarc and they said I probably had a bad connection which built up resistance, causing heat build up and then a melt down. I only realised it as my fridge temp kept rising. I have now replaced the fuses on the red and brown wires with narva 30A circuit breakers as this is what my local autosparky suggested. Make sure you have spare fuses, electrical tape, etc handy as I had to do a bush mechanics job to get the fuse holder working again.

Hello 2007Lux,
nothing really mentioned on the 15 page thread on mounting the ctek dc-dc charger. Anyone got any photos of under the bonnet installation. Not sure if velcro would be strong enough to stick it to the top of the fuse box or if people have drilled and bolted it through the fuse box lid.

I've got the Ctek dc-dc charger and found the best spot to mount it is inside the cab next to the glove box. Take out the glove bow screw the charger to a piece of plywood and attach this to the metal frame, I just used a couple of thick cable ties. You can even look at the indication lights when driving just pull out the glove box and it is right there.

It's still fairly high up and it's out of the hot dirty engine bay, also good to connecting a solar panel just have the plug sitting up there to connect to it.

Make sure you run the sensor to the battery terminal. I'm running a 95A/h AGM on the ARB tray and have found the constant voltage applied to the battery varies from almost 15V to just over 14V depending on the temps. (Camping in the snow to driving on the soft sand at Morton.)

Hellbound wrote:

buffo69 wrote:My Ctek is mounted under the passenger seat.

I thought that your meant to mount them as close as possible to the second battery for some reason....

I'm pretty sure it was just the temp sensor that had to be located near the battery.

PluckA76 wrote:Hello 2007Lux,
nothing really mentioned on the 15 page thread on mounting the ctek dc-dc charger. Anyone got any photos of under the bonnet installation. Not sure if velcro would be strong enough to stick it to the top of the fuse box or if people have drilled and bolted it through the fuse box lid.

Hi there PluckA76
I was more just directing you the thread rather than that particular page
Have fun with the install. Post pics if you can be bothered when done to build up this thread with good info
2007Lux

no worries 2007Lux....been scratching my head at the best place to put it. Hey Argon, did your solar panel come with regulators at the back....from what I can see you can't plug it into the solar input of the dc-dc charger if the panel is regulated. Another headache I've gotta disconnect my new panel and join the + and - if I want to use it as a 2nd power input.

No regulator, not sure why you would need to join the + and -, Anyway here's a pic.

Cheers for the picture.....my last and final question is it hard to pull the glove box out

PluckA76 wrote:Cheers for the picture.....my last and final question is it hard to pull the glove box out

Nope, open the glovebox and gently pull each bottom corner towards you. Done. So simple and easy it makes you why they make em like this 50 years ago.

You can see the 2 bottom clips in the photo.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Stevo

It's as easy as opening it, just open the glove box and pull it up and angle it out. and do the reverse to put it back in.

Cheers guys, I think putting it where you have Argon is a better idea away from the heat in the engine bay.

Cheers again fellas

Hi

I pick my new Hilux this week 2012 SR Dually, I already have the ARB battery tray ready to go in.

I have a Piranha DBE180s left over from my previous Hilux and was wonder if any one has used one of these in a current model Hilux and if it works or had any trouble with it.

Cheers Scott


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This is my set up, it consists of a arb tray, ctek d250s dual, baintech12 terminal fuse block, and 100ah battery. The ctek is attached to the fuse box lid with heavy duty velcro for easy access, if the velcro fails I'm sure the 6mm wiring will hold the ctek in place until another solution is found.

Any of you guys find your ctek dual charger runs pretty hot. I connected mine up yesterday and noticed its pretty hot to touch. The engine was off but the crank led and aux battery led was still on showing charging. This is mentioned in cteks FAQs that it will take a while to stop charging after the engine is turned off.

How hot the ctek charger is has me a little concerned, I used 6 gauge wire and have it sitting on the fuse box in the engine bay (short wire run).

Mine is bolted to the fuse box lid
I do keep an allen key and roll of elec tape in the car in case i need to remove wires.


Plucka, mine certainly doesn't get too hot to touch, although I haven't drained the aux battery much so it has never had to work hard yet. Also, the charge light stays on after i turn of the car for while, suppose its just until the main battery voltage drops of a bit.

2007Lux wrote:Just an update on my BCDC1220 set up. On a recent fishing trip I melted, and obviously blew, the output fuse on the brown wire (25A). Spoke to redarc and they said I probably had a bad connection which built up resistance, causing heat build up and then a melt down. I only realised it as my fridge temp kept rising. I have now replaced the fuses on the red and brown wires with narva 30A circuit breakers as this is what my local autosparky suggested. Make sure you have spare fuses, electrical tape, etc handy as I had to do a bush mechanics job to get the fuse holder working again.

Here are some pics of the melted 25A fuse. It was also the first time I had run my ARB fridge on freeze (-17) so maybe this had an influence??

aandy wrote:Mine is bolted to the fuse box lid
I do keep an allen key and roll of elec tape in the car in case i need to remove wires.


Plucka, mine certainly doesn't get too hot to touch, although I haven't drained the aux battery much so it has never had to work hard yet. Also, the charge light stays on after i turn of the car for while, suppose its just until the main battery voltage drops of a bit.

Hi, I see you have installed a manual connection switch. I want to do the same. do you need to disconnect the ctek before connecting both batteries.

Do you mean a bypass switch? Then yes the ctek should be disconnected, otherwise you are shorting its input to its output.

outbackjoe wrote:Do you mean a bypass switch? Then yes the ctek should be disconnected, otherwise you are shorting its input to its output.

Yes, thank you for replying
I am now searching for a more foolproof way that can bypass the batteries and isolate the CTEK by one switch. A five leg relay (30A) may do but it cannot cope with the high bypass current.