NewHilux.net

I use to have the ABR side winder box with the dual battery controller inside but found it unreliable after a couple of years

In the hilux I installed http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/product/12704/btvcr100.html
and find it brilliant and cheap

also installed one of those fancy fuses that boosts the voltage

before heading out on a trip i top it up with a battery charger and I'm all good

Hi Guys,

have seen a couple of mentions about the crappy ability of hilux alternator (petrol v6)

I am having a rather annoying issue currently where, if i have my spotties, highbeams , foggies, and DC-DC charger on (and the usual load of the car itself) ... my alternator is unable to keep up, and I start depleting my primary battery.

In the day time the issue is not there, the alternator can keep up .. infact even around city with low beams it's OK

But on a night drive (sitting at 2000rpm), she simply can't keep up. My DC-DC (redarc) actually removes itself from the equation when it detects low voltage (ie when the battery is nearly bloody flat) ... but even then the car has a hard time breaking even with the primary battery charge level, if i have all the candles lit on the bow.

Anyone had experiences with getting these factory alternators to boost some output?

One of my best mates is an auto sparky and even he's scratching his head (we're now toying wiht idea of having the alternator rebuilt and beefed up by him ... or purchasing an aftermarket 130amp alternator).

Surely though these hilux alternators can handle a bit of load ... a pair of spotties (lightforce blitz 240), and a DC-DC charger (draws probably 25amp, to deliver 20amp to aux batt) is not THAT big an ask?

Highbeams : 220watt / 18amps
Lightforce : 200watt /18amps
Foggies : 110watt / 9amps
Brake / Park Lights : 2.5amp
Running of the car (pumps, dashboards, aircon fans, computers) : ??? Anyone?
20amp DC-DC running, probably pulls closer to 25amp off alternator
This comes in at 72.5amps, NOT including the unknowns above (running of the car). Assuming maybe 15amp?

Total Coming in at around 88amps ... i guess I can see why alternator isn't keeping up.

But surely a pair of spotties, and a dual battery system is common as houses on our hiluxes (i see guys with 4 or more spotties!), yet this issue doesn't seem common place.

I would suggest that something is wrong because as you say it is a pretty common setup.
I have dc dc charger second battery 120 amp, run two fridges, nearly always have AC on plus radio, driving lights etc and never had issue with charge

Yeah has to be the alternator i guess.

I mean my auto sparky (best mate) has been over it several times and installed the dual battery system ... in his opinion the alternator is just piss weak.

It's under a 3 month stat warranty at moment , so I've just called them and basically said the alternator is shafted and needs replacement or rebuild. They seem to be agreeable (the foreman is pretty easy going). So will bite bullet and give them the car for a day or two.

Failing that, ill have to fork out for a higher amperage alterntor (or get current one beefed up), and even then *hoping* that is the fix.

So mine went back to Toyota, who had it for 3 days, replaced alternator, problem not fixed! So it went over to their auto electricians who had it for 2 days and couldnt work it out, other than to blame the DC-DC Charging (this is after they had to call redarc and ask 'what is a dc to dc charger all about?' << wtf?)

Anyway, it is now in the hands of my auto sparky best mate whos had it for 3 days and it has him stumped! ... even the Redarc guys taken a look at it and can't work it out.

No such issue on the TD hilux they tested against ... different alternator apparently, 140amp on the Turbo Diesel.

Mate reckons best he can get out of my brand new V6 alternator is 65amps continuous ... dismal!

An after market 130amp alternator may be my next step ... a bit annoying given the road I've been down so far.

Anyone else running a V6 Hilux and had dramas with alternator just not giving enough power?

Not answering your question here qwerty6054 but it seems to me after reading this thread is that the only essential items required for a dual battery system are:

- Ctek d250s Dc Dc charger OR Redarc / Piranha equivalent that has built in isolator
- A deep cycle battery or some description be it AGM or Gel etc...
- Appropriate sized wiring and fittings
- Battery tray

With optional things being battery level monitors, additional isolator that can join both batteries together for jump starting..

Have i missed anything here fellas as this looks real redneck simple and i like it

Hellbound wrote:Not answering your question here qwerty6054 but it seems to me after reading this thread is that the only essential items required for a dual battery system are:

- Ctek d250s Dc Dc charger OR Redarc / Piranha equivalent that has built in isolator
- A deep cycle battery or some description be it AGM or Gel etc...
- Appropriate sized wiring and fittings
- Battery tray

With optional things being battery level monitors, additional isolator that can join both batteries together for jump starting..

Have i missed anything here fellas as this looks real redneck simple and i like it

Got it in one mate, I have bought the Ctek dual 250s and the tray now only need the battery and the wiring.

Good stuff, im looking at the Yellow top Optima batteries but theyre pretty pricey for not much amps/hours compared to other brands. Best price i can find is around $380 for the 55amps/hour model but i just think that would be enough juice to keep a fridge running for a couple of days. Century do a 75 or 100 amp model for about the same price. What batterys are you looking at mate?

I fitted a 115ah under my bonnet with a tray from opposite lock

What make and how much coin?

Can't recall mate and garage is far too far from the couch

But was sub $200 from memory snd a very good battery , best mate auto sparky I get things at cost usually .... Biiiig markups retail

It's wet cell lead acid as we has concerns about heat

I put a century 100AH flooded in... cost $195 retail from supercrap auto, works beautifully with BCDC1220.

Cheers fellas all good info...

I htink this is mine : http://www.getprice.com.au/Crown-Suprem ... 370653.htm

Crown Supreme Battery 27DC115 12V, 115AH, Marine Caravan RV Solar Deep Cycle Battery, Trojan Equivalent 27TMH

I also got a new starter battery, 770CCA Bosch ... oddly enough its a calcium battery, but still considered wet cell, not sure what the go is ... its maint free though.

Hey fellas after some advice from people that have hooked their batteries up in their tray/tub rather then in the engine bay. So far I've got the fridge, battery and just brought a Ctek 250s dual. I'm in two minds about putting the battery in the engine bay as the battery i purchased is a 95a/h VRLA AGM which i herd don't like the heat. i was contemplating putting it in the tub and maybe purchasing another battery (same as the one i have) and hooking them both up in the tub with the charger.

I was going to go to ARB on sat and buy the engine bay tray but I'm not sure yet. Bloody decisions decisions...

hey guys, well i have tried to read this thread a few times and i get confused... being a chippy electronics inst my strong point.
So i have a simple question, i want to be running a fridge freezer and led light bar.What would be a good system to runs these. I did here ctek 250 charger were the go. so a run down of everything i need to do a daul battery would be good so i can buy it then convince someone to help me.

cheers bondy

Try these threads below as well mate

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8642&hilit=dual+batteries

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12066&p=171770&hilit=dual+batteries#p171770

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8703&p=115129&hilit=abr+sidewinder#p115129

yer i have looked through those and always end up more confused.. all i want is a shoppin list