Dual Batteries for dummies

[19266022]

Just Installed a ctek D250S Duel with a 130 A/h deep cycle battery.
Anyone have the same or similar setup? just wondering if anyone has had any issues with the ctek unit overheating under the bonnet? I havent had a chance to give it a good test yet just interested to know. The user manual says it operates in temps up to 50c any feed back would be thankful cheers guys.Oh yeah and should i have put a fuse somewhere???

[outbackjoe]

Pretty short cable runs, I don't think you'd be protecting much by adding fuses. You should have fuses protecting outgoing cables from the second battery to your auxiliary loads. I have no first hand experience with ctek under the bonnet, but I imagine it would likely exceed 50 deg C with motor running on a hot day. Need feedback from someone who has similar arrangement to see if it's caused problems.

[caddy75]

hi 19266022 , i have been running my ctec under the bonnet and havnt had any issues with it at all mine is mounted on the driver side but that shouldnt make any differance . very tidy job you have done there by the way
cheers caddy75

[bluehilux]

I'm looking seriously at this unit as well.

On top of the fuse box like that looks trick, and more importantly keeps the length of the cables down.

The only thing I'd worry about more than the temperature (which could be an issue) would be how it would handle a blow over with the water blaster when you want to clean the engine bay.

I seen that some have tried to fit it in the cab which eliminates both of those problems, but then you've got longer cables.

I see a lot of people mention the Redarc BCDC1220, but what about the BCDC1225 which also allows solar charging?

Aren't the Redarcs more heat/water resistant?

A good question would be has anyone actually had their DCDC charger (any type) fail in the engine bay due to heat or water ingress?

[DeadlyBeast]

I'm about to install a BCDC 1225. The instructions suggest that in temperatures over 50C the amperage and charging ability also will drop. I have spoken to ARB in Darwin as I live in the top end of WA asking what they suggest to avoid engine temp. They suggest mounting in front of the AC condenser with bracket. This keeps it cool and close to the battery bank. Down side that I can see is that if its not protected by the bull bar loop it is vulnerable to roo/cattle strikes although if you hit 500kg of beef something else is likely to get smashed anyway. Other possible downside is dust and water ingress being located at the front of the vehicle. I believe the electronics are water tight(covered in silicon) but the box they are housed in definitely is not. Stay tuned - I'm going to give this a crack...

[Wing]

I have set up my ctek in the same way for 2 years without any problem. I overkill in safety area, all non-factory cables from my battery positive terminals are fused within 1 inch.

[DeadlyBeast]

Decided to mount the unit in front of radiator as recommended by Darwin ARB and for following reasons
1)didn't want loads of wires going thru the fire wall into the cabin and the unit is recommended to be no more than 1meter from the starting battery
2) didnt want the unit mounted in the engine bay as ambient temps over 55C "de-rate output current" according to redarc. Already had 40C days here

Below is the mounting position. It will get direct airflow thru the grille but will be exposed to the elements so I have completely sealed the unit with RTV silicon even though I believe the internal circuits are waterproof.


3 main wires:
BLACK - Common Ground
RED - Input positive -requires 40 amp fuse
BROWN - Output battery positive (Auxillary) - requires 40 amp fuse
smaller wires:
BLUE - Source select (for solar connect to GROUND or for for simple Aux 12V battery connect to INPUT POSITIVE)
GREEN - Remote indicator (led for cabin)
ORANGE - Battery type*


Aux battery: supercharge allrounder MRV70 auxillary battery which is a hybrid lead/calcium battery - starting and deep cycle hybrid.
http://www.supercharge.com.au/product_detail.php?seq=97
http://www.supercharge.com.au/technology.php

[Skitz-4x4]

Hey guys i've used the ''search fuction'' and am unable to find an answer to my question so please redirect me if i've missed it.. i'm looking to install dual batterys with the ctek 250s dual with a deep cycle optima in an arb tray.. i was wondering how to redirect power from the sterio and ciggy lighter as i use the sterio while camping and dont want to drain the starter battery..

cheers scott

[mow44u]

Hey guys i've used the ''search fuction'' and am unable to find an answer to my question so please redirect me if i've missed it.. i'm looking to install dual batterys with the ctek 250s dual with a deep cycle optima in an arb tray.. i was wondering how to redirect power from the sterio and ciggy lighter as i use the sterio while camping and dont want to drain the starter battery..

cheers scott

Ive done the same on my last 2 Hilux's. Means you can crank the beats all night.

Ive got an Pioneer stereo connected with a ISO harness into the factory loom so i didnt cut any factory wires. Just cut the power feed for the stereo and connect it to a fused power feed from your 2nd battery. The ciggy lighter also gets it power from here, so that will run off the the 2nd batt aswell. You stereo will operate normally as the switch wire that turns it on and off with the key is still connected to the factory loom.

I got creative and put a switch in the dash so i can turn it on and off without the keys. I just linked the switch wire from the stereo to a switch with a diode inline so that it can function normally.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=15512

[Skitz-4x4]

Haha wow now that I think about it sounds pretty easy what is the iso harness and where did you source it if you dont mind me asking?

[mow44u]

ISO harnes comes in two parts, one plugs directly into the toyota plugs that you remove from the factory stereo with another set of plugs on the end. The other suits your brand of aftermarket stereo and attaches into the first plug.

The idea is to make it quick (and neat) to install an aftermarket stereo, no cutting the factory loom and crimp connecting it into you new stereo. Simple plug and play

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-CAMRY ... 2a1b465ed3
This is one half, you get the other half to suit your new stereo and it will plug..

[bluehilux]

I'm looking seriously at the Redarc BCDC 1240.

Not too much extra coin, much bigger charge rate and solar panel compatible.

Still only has the 3 stage charging, but I'm not going to get too hung up on that.

I'm more worried about water affecting it during washing and crossings, and this one just looks a bit more "sealed" than the other.

[ozmoose3195]

Would someone mind explaining the difference (in dumb arse speak so I can understand) the difference between the 'CTEK DUAL S' and the CTEK 'Smartpass'. Which one is most appropriate for a dual battery set up. I am looking to use a N70ZZ as the main and an Optima Yellowtop as the second. After reading this thread using a Dc-Dc charger seems to be the way to go. Just not sure which one. They are both about the same price and read the same on their website. Confused

[Hellbound]

Ctek Dual S is the main unit to get which does the all the work, and the smartpass is a possible addition to the Dual which you would use to get the batteries in peak condition, but its not actually required for a dual battery system, where as the Ctek Dual is. From what ive come across anyway....

[Aquaholics]

Would someone mind explaining the difference (in dumb arse speak so I can understand) the difference between the 'CTEK DUAL S' and the CTEK 'Smartpass'. Which one is most appropriate for a dual battery set up. I am looking to use a N70ZZ as the main and an Optima Yellowtop as the second. After reading this thread using a Dc-Dc charger seems to be the way to go. Just not sure which one. They are both about the same price and read the same on their website. Confused

Ok to try and keep it simple. When you add the D250S and the Smartpass together then all the things these two units do can make it a little confusing.

Ctek D250S
- takes the charge from your alternator and boosts it to a maximum of 20amps to charge your auxiliary battery.
- has a built in solar regulator if you are going to get a current model one.

Ctek Smartpassit is just that, a smart pass.
- has two inputs and one output. Input 1 your alternator and input 2 the D250S. The output is where you connect all your equipment (customers they call it). It will work out which supply is best to meet the demand to what's connected to the output.

Say you just have a fridge hooked up to a Smartpass and D250S. When you are driving your alternator will run the fridge and the D250S will charge the second battery (maximum 80aps with the smartpass and D250S if current is available). When you stop the second battery will run the fridge and all charging stops unless you have a solar panel. If you run the fridge to long the smarpass will disconnect it before it drains/kills your battery. Sure your beer will get warm but you wont be up for a new battery.
The smarpass will also allow you to connect a charger to your auxiliary battery and once it is charged it will then charge your starter battery without you having to shift it across.

So what if you have just the D250S. When you are driving the D250S will charge the second battery but at the same time the fridge will be drawing from it so it will take longer to charge, plus with a maximum of 20 amps. Once you stop, if you leave your fridge running too long without running the car or some other charge (solar, 240volt charger) you will run the battery flat maybe killing it.

I hope that makes it a little clearer.

[Hellbound]

You still need a Dual S first tho, a smart pass wont do anything without being connected to that. Id get th Dual first and if you have money to spend in the future on the system then get a smart pass too. I wouldnt worry about the aux battery dying as most decent fridges these days have low battery level cut offs so youll never drain it completely flat.

Should also mention that the dual automatically disconnects the two batteries after the cars turned off, constantly monitors the starter battery voltage and will stop charging the aux if the starter is getting low, can accent a solar input as it has a built in regulator and has a 5 step charging system to keep the connected battery in top condition..

[ozmoose3195]

Thanks guys that does make it clearer. You mentioned my beer getting warm, so I concentrated even harder, to make sure I get it right.

Settled then, Dual S first, then save some coin for the smart pass down the track if required. Now to decide on a battery. The ever popular yellowtop (55A/H) or a larger A/H deep cycle. But it will have to fit into an ARB tray that I have.

[Hellbound]

Go for the biggest deep cycle + amp hour you can fit - pretty sure you can fit up to a N70 sized one in the ARB but make sure its atleast 100ah or its not worth the hassle in my opinion...

[2007Lux]

Thanks guys that does make it clearer. You mentioned my beer getting warm, so I concentrated even harder, to make sure I get it right.

Settled then, Dual S first, then save some coin for the smart pass down the track if required. Now to decide on a battery. The ever popular yellowtop (55A/H) or a larger A/H deep cycle. But it will have to fit into an ARB tray that I have.

Like you I read a lot before I set my system up. I now have used it for over a year on many 2-4 day camping trips where i would typically run the car for a couple of hours a day (going out 4wding from camp). I use a bosch marine depe cycle Ca battery (95 AHr). I run a 47ltr ARB fridge on 4 degrees and never had the aux battery go flat. What I am trying to say is that chances are if you use a DCDC charger with a deep cycle battery you'll be fine. Oh I use a Redarc unit but many here are also having great succesess with the CTEK.

[TheDucksLux]

So after getting all the info off this thread I put together my dual battery system. I went the Ctek 250s Dual with a 100ah federal deep cycle auxiliary battery. I used a baintech battery tray, 8mm wire in the engine bay and 6mm to the fused baintech junction box which I hard wired my waeco fridge plug and 12v outlet to.