Dual Batteries for dummies

Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby wholehog on Mon, 07 Feb 2011 3:25 +0000

I have searched and there are a few posts regarding this topic but we need something like"dual batteries for dummies"
All the other posts go of in electrical engineering jargon and thats it for me..call me to dumb...to tired...to drunk....all of the above ..but it is doing my head in :?
I want to install a second battery and all i know( i think) is that the second battery should be a deep cycle...agm perhaps?
Now..here is the good bit...
Do i use an isolator like the redarc......
Or can the ctek unit do the same thing as well as charge to 100%... :D i learned that alernator only charges to 70/80%
Pros and cons for either system would be good.....another contender is the Piranha sytem
ARB wanted 1100 bux to install redarc and run a few outlets in my tray......seems a little over the top.....any help would be appreciated..cheers
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Alby on Mon, 07 Feb 2011 4:01 +0000

If I was starting from scratch like you I would install a 100 or 120 amp agm battery and a Dc-dc charger setup , most likely the Cteck 250s dual
I can point you to some sites that have good pricing on these two items if you are interested
From there you could talk to a local auto electrician to do an install
The main thing is to start with the good basic components so you don't waste money changing later

Others here in the electrical field can give you more technical answers if you are looking to fit yourself but I think most will agree with my basic ingredients list
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby ktm300 on Mon, 07 Feb 2011 4:35 +0000

wholehog wrote:I have searched and there are a few posts regarding this topic but we need something like"dual batteries for dummies"
All the other posts go of in electrical engineering jargon and thats it for me..call me to dumb...to tired...to drunk....all of the above ..but it is doing my head in :?
I want to install a second battery and all i know( i think) is that the second battery should be a deep cycle...agm perhaps?
Now..here is the good bit...
Do i use an isolator like the redarc......
Or can the ctek unit do the same thing as well as charge to 100%... :D i learned that alernator only charges to 70/80%
Pros and cons for either system would be good.....another contender is the Piranha sytem
ARB wanted 1100 bux to install redarc and run a few outlets in my tray......seems a little over the top.....any help would be appreciated..cheers



Try ABR sidewinder do a search. have used plenty of this guys stuff never had a problem Worth a look
Prices are very reasonable also
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby mrpatchman on Mon, 07 Feb 2011 7:23 +0000

Ok, Im a clanky engineer so electrickery is not my speciality. Im in the process of installing a Dual battery sytem. I have chosen a DBE140 Piranha and have installed my battery tray. Current research is pointing me towards a AGM battery. I intend to run about 100Amp Circuit breaker to the tray and another 20Amp inside the car. Why? I need a fridge and a inverter in the tray (too noisy inside) and an extra outlet or two inside the truck. My winch comes from my cranking battery.
The way I see it is... My engine needs a good CCA (COld Cranking AMps) battery to kick into life, as does my winch. I need to ensure that the constant drain from luxuries such as fridges and inverters come from a battery that can handle a constant lower drain and are not the same unit that I need to crank the engine with in the morning...
WHen the D4D is alive and kicking, I want it to recharge my lifeblood (CCA) battery first, adn then worry about the luxury battery.
The DBE140 or Redarc or whatever you choose... Is just the unit that ensures that my luxuries dont drain my lifeblood and that the D4D will start when I need her to.
In the worst case scenario... I would use my jumper leads from one battery to the other and kick the D4D into life that way (ie the CCA battery dies for some unknown reason). Always a Damage Control scenario worth knowing!

Hope this helps?
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Dluxv6 on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 3:34 +0000

Wholehog
Alby is on the money mate
very good system to start with
i have a "old systm" ie Arb smart isolator

will be changing to CTEK dual in near future as this alleviates me having to give batteries a top up before i leave for a camping trip ie car alternator (V6 hilux) won't charge batteries to 100% state of charge

cost is in vicinity
ctek approx $400-450
Battery anywhere from $200-500 depending on style lead,agm gel
ancillary such as leads, outlets approx $200
and of course labour which can be done DIY
there are plenty web sites which show what needs to done

http://www.dynamicsolarsolutions.com.au ... agrams.htm
http://www.dynamicsolarsolutions.com.au ... _facts.htm

hope this helps mate
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Alby on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 5:33 +0000

A couple of links with good prices and graeat people to deal with


For a battery I have http://www.allpurposebatteries.com.au/p ... ducts_id=2, they also have the Fullriver brand that I would have got but they were out of stock.I have fitted mine in the try so you may not be able to get one this big under your bonnet

And here is the DC-DC charger link
http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/ ... -dual.html

You will need to add a Redarc style isolater and fuses etc as well
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Dluxv6 on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 6:45 +0000

Alby
if u use Ctek250s there is no need for isolator as this unit does the same job
or were you refering to dual batt using an isolator instead

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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Alby on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 6:52 +0000

I am not sure about that and you may be right
I already have a redarc isolator and they said to leave it in but maybe you do not need to buy one?
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Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby bill_i_am on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 7:18 +0000

Drew and Alby.
Whether you leave the redarc in the circuit or take it out is up to you, because as Drew said it is not required with the ctek. However, the benefit of leaving it in the circuit is that it provides you with the option of paralleling the batteries together (for winching - if you have the 200amp redarc, or to start your vehicle if your cranking battery dies). Having said this, a dirty old solenoid will do the same thing, is better suited to higher currents and is cheaper.
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby noodle on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 7:38 +0000

Alby wrote:A couple of links with good prices and graeat people to deal with


For a battery I have http://www.allpurposebatteries.com.au/p ... ducts_id=2, they also have the Fullriver brand that I would have got but they were out of stock.I have fitted mine in the try so you may not be able to get one this big under your bonnet



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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Dluxv6 on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 8:56 +0000

Bill
forgot about that feature
thank god someone is on the ball
oh well looks like the isolator will bestaying and ctek added in to my system


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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby wholehog on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 1:01 +0000

SO...the ctek 250 dual is all u really need... i can run winch off the main battery and the fridge, inverter etc etc of the Aux battery...which from what i have read.....AGM seems the way to go..... :geek:
Now.... is the ctek essentially the same as a redarc BCDC-1206 ....Either way i dont have to have the redarc SBI12...
One more kwik question if i may :D just supposing my main battery go flat for whatever reason...with a ctek or piranha or whatever connected......can i just jump start of another vechile or my second battery(if its a agm deep cycle/dual purpose) as u would noramlly jump start?
cheers guys and thanks for the help..
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Dluxv6 on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 2:59 +0000

yep
jumper cables will do the job
but if you had a isolator installed the link button will allow both batteries to be paralelled to start if crank batt was dead

not many people realise when you have a dead batt, when you connect jumper leads let the batteries sit for a while to equalize (liken it to a full bottle of water=jump batt and a empty bottle of water =crank batt )and then try to start otherwise you get the start batt trying to pull huge current thru leads and will possibly overheat or melt undersized jumper leads

Cheers Drew
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Alby on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 3:12 +0000

bill_i_am wrote:Drew and Alby.
Whether you leave the redarc in the circuit or take it out is up to you, because as Drew said it is not required with the ctek. However, the benefit of leaving it in the circuit is that it provides you with the option of paralleling the batteries together (for winching - if you have the 200amp redarc, or to start your vehicle if your cranking battery dies). Having said this, a dirty old solenoid will do the same thing, is better suited to higher currents and is cheaper.


That is probably why they said to leave it in then. Just on that note though, one of the advantages in having a DC -DC charger is that it corrects the voltage drop that you get from long cable runs so most people will opt for a lighter guage cable in their install.
I am assuming the lighter cable would be an issue if you were to parrallel the batteries for cranking or winching, it would be the same as using cheap pissy jumper leads.

I have all of my wiring in 2B@S cable which is a bonus.

BTW the advantage that teh Ctek unit has over the others is that it has a built in regulator so you can plug a solar panel straight into it without having to buy one.
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby wholehog on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 3:15 +0000

Dluxv6 wrote:)and then try to start otherwise you get the start batt trying to pull huge current thru leads and will possibly overheat or melt undersized jumper leads

Cheers Drew

The jumper leads i have a from when i owned a truck and believe me.....u could weld with these suckers....
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Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby bill_i_am on Tue, 08 Feb 2011 3:56 +0000

Alby wrote:
bill_i_am wrote:Drew and Alby.
Whether you leave the redarc in the circuit or take it out is up to you, because as Drew said it is not required with the ctek. However, the benefit of leaving it in the circuit is that it provides you with the option of paralleling the batteries together (for winching - if you have the 200amp redarc, or to start your vehicle if your cranking battery dies). Having said this, a dirty old solenoid will do the same thing, is better suited to higher currents and is cheaper.


That is probably why they said to leave it in then. Just on that note though, one of the advantages in having a DC -DC charger is that it corrects the voltage drop that you get from long cable runs so most people will opt for a lighter guage cable in their install.
I am assuming the lighter cable would be an issue if you were to parrallel the batteries for cranking or winching, it would be the same as using cheap pissy jumper leads.

I have all of my wiring in 2B@S cable which is a bonus.

BTW the advantage that teh Ctek unit has over the others is that it has a built in regulator so you can plug a solar panel straight into it without having to buy one.


Well said Alby, you're spot on.

One thing I should point out for clarity is that only the ctek d250s "dual" offers the ability to connect a solar panel directly.
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby helmut79 on Sun, 13 Feb 2011 1:19 +0000

so if I was to include a isolator in the systems with the Ctek d250s, will a 100amp isolator be able to hand switching both batteries together if the main battery was to die, or would a 200amp isolator be required?
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Alby on Sun, 13 Feb 2011 1:40 +0000

I don't know the technical answer to that but this is the one I have and it is rated at 100amps constant with a 400amp spike load http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm
This site also has a wiring diagram if you are interested
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Marshwa on Tue, 20 Sep 2011 7:35 +0000

Hi Guys,

Just chasing some help with a dual battery setup for my lux, i got practically no knowledge when it comes to power, but after having my battery go flat on my and being stranded for 2 days without a car I've decided its time for a second battery. I don't need this battery to run anything in particular and i don't need excessive power for a trailer, i simply want it there as a back up and for emergency if my main fails i can still start my car, also my soon to be stereo may have a fair impact on my battery.

After some reading I've been looking at the following options:
#1: Buy a battery tray from ARB or Ebay ($150):
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-hilux ... 3a69e401fe

#2: Buy and isolator and wiring kit (ABR Sidewinder has had some good reviews and the price looks good $145):
http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page166a.html

#3: Buy a battery monitor ($80):
http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page161.html

#4: Buy a secondary cranking battery ($250)
Need some help here with best type of battery for the best price? :?

Therefore installed by myself the overall price is approximately $630, i have no problems install this myself i don't see it being to complicated so will save some coin there. Can people just confirm wheather this is my best and most cost effective option, and whether ABR gear is good stuff? and if not please recomened me some alternatives and there pricing? How does a ARB and TJM kit compare price and function wise?

Cheers, Max
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Re: Dual Batteries for dummies

Postby Steveyb on Tue, 20 Sep 2011 9:33 +0000

I'm running a Redarc BCDC1220 charger with 110amp deep cycle... drunk person simple setup and works very well, has no problem recovering a mass drainage stint from the HF, which on full bang requires about 22amps contant at 13.6V under TX conditions.

If you wanna add a jump start/which from 2 batteries to this just add a continuious duty solenoid with a switch in the cab..

I went for ARB battery battery tray as I heard bad news about other trays cracking wheel arches etc etc
All up cost about $700, including battey.. fitted myself.
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