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I have read all 17 pages of this thread but dont recall seeing any options for retrofitting an alternator that charges to 90+% soc. Does anyone know if there is one available?

Hi Guys,
I have read all 17 pages of this thread but don't recall seeing any options but spending a fortune with redarc or ctek.

So what to do.

Over the next month or so, I'll evaluate the alternator output from my 2010 V6, with a strapped on volt meter. If it looks like managing two batteries, I'll fit a secondary battery, maybe a AGM type if I can afford it. If the charge is rubbish, I'll reluctantly venture down the expensive smart electronic route.

I'm still thinking, hoping It'll work.
I'll keep you updated

I have an MY10 v6 with a vrla auxillary and a voltage booster diode. It has had this setup for almost 2 years with no problems yet, the only time the alternator has struggled a bit was when both batteries were both right down(11.4v) but that is to be expected. I throw a charger on around once a month just as maintenance and find that it runs on equalise for 30-45 mins before going into float mode. I found alternator voltages stock ranges from 14.2 (dead cold) to 13.4 (45 deg day hot as in traffic), booster diode added bang on .5v all round. If you want any more info let me know.

Looks like they are only $30/40, so might give them a whirl. So, yes please let me know.

I do not recommend going that way as they push the alternator out of its designed limits and leaves it open to destroy itself if the conditions are right, and those conditions will most likely occur when you out in a desert somewhere in the summer, very hot day and the batteries have been run down very low, result, alternator = toast.

Ill bet you that any that you buy will come with a disclaimer in an attempt to make you think they are not legally responsible for the damage they know it might cause. I thought about selling them myself, but would have to sell a hell of a lot of them to pay for the insurance policy.

However after saying that, if you do decide to go that way the commercially available ones are outrageously over priced for what they are. All you need is a silicone diode, and as it has to serve as a fuse as well, a very small one that will blow itself apart if it has to carry more than half an amp or so, most radio repair shops will have small glass diodes, then just fabricate a way to put it in in place of the fuse.

I'd live to try one if these alternators!
But, i don't know is anybody has hooked one up is aus.
The manufactrure seems to do dual and tri-alternator setups which seems scary.

http://www.m2kinc.com/product-1gr-fe-38-39-2.html

From what I've been told, hooking up a higher output alternator can be dangerous if not done properly. Depending on how big you go, some of the wiring and fuses need to be upgraded.

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[quote="TOYZX"]From what I've been told, hooking up a higher output alternator can be dangerous if not done properly. Depending on how big you go, some of the wiring and fuses need to be upgraded.

I agree with that, but I've just been to Autobarn, Supacheap and Sprint to try and pre-identify my alternator (to see if it's a temp controlled job), and each shop would have sold me a different alternator.

It varied from a 80A, 100A to a huge 130A, so if I had to buy one tomorrow, the one you get depends on the shop you go too.
Now I know how bizarre the dealers are, if mine goes kaput I will go to Toyota for a better details.

Ha, maybe I should have gone there first. lol

TOYZX wrote:From what I've been told, hooking up a higher output alternator can be dangerous if not done properly. Depending on how big you go, some of the wiring and fuses need to be upgraded.

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Wow, they are some big boys. Definitely made a note of that site.

Some pretty big claims, gotta love America, they don't have the same advertising laws as we do.

They might have left out the 2 minute duty cycle at those outputs.

At 220 amps an alternator is generating about 3000 watts of heat ( unless they have managed to change the laws of physics) and at idle would be hard pushed to move enough air through the unit to cool it, not to mention it would be demanding 8 Hp through the drive belt at idle and 14 Hp at full output.

personally, I say stick with the OEM alternator (or rebuild from Mudgeeraba Auto Electrical) and then add a dc-dc charger and AGM battery.

This setup has worked for me for 4 years

Yep, what packeteer said! I've been running one of his alternators for 2 years now, he knows his stuff!

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If people feel they need a higher alternator output it would make theoretical sense to put in a second alternator mounted and driven the same way as the continuous air compressors.
This would give you the flexibility to alter the output settings to suit your accessory batteries, or just run it in parallel to the original, then safely run a BCDC 1240, be a lot less susceptible to water and mud ingress up there too.

Lot of trouble and expense but then, so are most of the other mods people do to their hilux.

martynvella wrote:At 220 amps an alternator is generating about 3000 watts of heat ( unless they have managed to change the laws of physics) and at idle ...

That probably comes down to the efficency of the energy conversion... But i'll bite.

Which law?

You are dead right,

The formula of alternators being only 50% efficient meaning they produce as much heat energy as they do electrical energy, and there is pretty close to 750 watts per horsepower, from there it is simple maths.

Are there any alternators on the market to replace the standard one that will constantly pump out 14 volts as a direct replacement?

Get onto bansheebuzz or call mudgeeraba auto electrical. He sent you a reconditioned one with a solid pulley and a better reg/rec.

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all this alternator stuff is a worry, however i understand that toyota dealer can reset charge parameters on their computer
ie increase float charge and dumb down alternator to the good old days ,of current and voltage , maybe they wont ,warrantty and all that stuff , so much for all this intelligence in the long run just more and more unreliability.

The good old
keep it simple stupid
simplicity the ultimate sophistication

tojo3

the alternators on the1kd are not ecu controlled and toyota cannot modify them. the new 1gd engine is ecu controlled. what they can do is yet unknown tome as there so new

For anyone interested, I just got quoted $707.60 including GST for a genuine alternator (part no 27060-0L022) from my local Toyota dealer. I'll be going for a recon/upgrade from bansheebuzz.