NewHilux.net

sooo, Redarc as close as possible to the crank battery, and ctek as close as possible to the aux battery?

BR65 wrote:sooo, Redarc as close as possible to the crank battery, and ctek as close as possible to the aux battery?

No, both should be close to aux battery.

okay.....I am going back to school to study mechanical engineer or something akin..........

Just out of curiosity, anyone know if they sell these things in Australia?

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com ... -270xp.htm

Stumbled across it during a random search, would certainly improve the charging situation.

taresk wrote:Just out of curiosity, anyone know if they sell these things in Australia?

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com ... -270xp.htm

Stumbled across it during a random search, would certainly improve the charging situation.

Nice find

Qwerty wrote:

taresk wrote:Just out of curiosity, anyone know if they sell these things in Australia?

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com ... -270xp.htm

Stumbled across it during a random search, would certainly improve the charging situation.

Nice find

there is a 250 in the states that i bought for mine, just ask seller for international shipping

Just for info, i had my ute start making noises for the last couple of weeks thought it was just the wet weather and the belt slipping abit, new belt on, no difference and then the battery light comes on, so after closer inspection the pulley is turning but the alternator shaft is not turning, so the clutch in the pulley is shot, so i am in the middle of bum f*ck no where( well no its saturday avro and i got beers to drink fishing tomorrow, so i need the fridge to be cold).
Easy fix, with screw driver pop off the plastic cover from the front of the alternator pulley, reveiling a steel shaft and the steel pulley edge, carefully making sure you put the earth on to the centre of the shaft simply put 4 welds and lock the whole shooting match together, simple , got amps back again and things are good in the world
Screw paying $650 for a new alternator when its only that wrong. who the hell would put a clutch system in there? for what purpose? ohhh thats right for the $650 for the new altenator

bones i do a solid pulley conversion when i rebuild these units, the only pitfall with welding it is it may not be true and you may have only welded the bearing, as time goes on it then flogs out the bearing recess then it slips again. I know as it tried this before sourcing the pulleys

Hi bansheebuzz,
Just got back from the cape with a bearing squealing on shut down it turned out to be the
Alternator run on one way bearing so I welded it up, before I researched this thread, and put it back in and it's all working good, just not real keen to leave it like this for long.
I like the sound of one of your reconditioned genuine exchange units with the solid pulley conversion.
So my question is have you been using this solid pulley conversion for long and is there any repercussions or problems with using a solid pulley long term, eg: belt, tensioners and other bearing wear increased, possible over charging or incorrect ecu signal input from the alternator.
And do you have one in stock ready to go or do I need to send you mime to rebuild.
Cheers.

nice battery choice statik. what's the price like?

bansheebuzz wrote:more than enough, i dont know what the ranox is rated too but the biggest unit i can buy in the product i use is rated to maximum 40amps

Hey guy's I use this - http://www.sterling-power.com/images/da ... %20low.pdf

These are great for 3 different batteries or if you just want to charge a single! Never failed, never flat & reliable!

My mate sells them and for the money, takes away a lot of un necessary crap like isolation relays and the like!

There are other types available where the alt's regulator can be completely bypassed thus allowing for a more suitable battery charging regime!

These basic relay type battery switches aren't really doing you any favours because in essence, your only paralleling your batteries together! Not a great way to do things as SOC is only as good as the unhealthiest of the 2 or 3 batteries. Low resistance in a battery allows voltage to rise quicker than normal thus alternator tapers off the charge due to the voltage going high, using these products allows for 100% independent charging regime with a max current above 200A... Not bad! Mine works really well.

The only real cons to using this stuff is that it makes the alternator work a lot harder at lower speeds obviously depending on current demand!

Get them here..... http://powerstream.com.au/zero-volt-dro ... p-219.html

Bells an whistles, flashing lights and machines that go beep.

The campfire would be a boring place in a 4WD park without them.

A lot of stuff out there is overkill that people develop and manufacture simply because they know good sales people will be able to convince people they need them.

Over the years I have removed truckloads of stuff that has failed and replaced it with much more simple reliable and far cheaper systems.

Research what you need, understand it then don't let accessory salesmen convince you that you need something else. Remember the parts shops make their money out of sales, Listen to the people that make their living selling their time and have done an apprenticeship in the trade, not in sales.

This post is not aimed at any one post or product in this forum, these devices are necessary, but remember the kiss rule, choose a unit that does what you need and ask yourself, does it have to have all the other stuff?

Countless times I have had customers turn up with boxes of stuff they have been talked into buying and have a coronary when they find out how much it is going to cost to install.

Talk to a tradesman before you buy something off ebay, not after you have bought it. This goes for everything not just electrical. Mechanics, sparkies, panel beaters have all been trained and understand their trade down to the molecular level. Sales people have been trained to use big words and confuse you.

so true Marty.
I've learnt the hard way

Happy New Year!!

Unfortunately for me though my I lost all power to my car as I was driving it(battery ,abs,airbag lights came on).
We'll first thought the battery needs replacing as it is 5years old but after charging it over night it came up fine.
Ok I checked the output of the alternator and it's only producing 12.4volts and does'nt increase with revs.
My mate has the same car d4d 2006 sr5 his alternator puts out 13.6volts and increases on reving up.
So I guess I'm up for a new alternator would I be correct in saying and I so does anyone know where I could get an exchange unit I'm in Bunbury WA 6230 south of Perth.
I'm on holidays at the moment with no wheels to enjoy it

There's been a little bit of conflicting information on another thread regarding how the alternator voltage is regulated in 2011+ models
Can someone set things straight:
ECU Controlled Variable Voltage Alternator or
Temperature Voltage Compensating Alternator?
I was under the impression that it was and still is the later of the two

Interesting question DB, Id like to know that myself.

An educated guess, based on the basicness ( if that's a word ) of the rest of the electronic options on these cars, would be it does little more that drop the regulating voltage once a predetermined level has been attained.

The 4 pin plug on the alternator in the earlier ones has an ign, bat sence, warning light and the terminal coming from the ecu which makes you think the control from the ecu is very limited, just fine tuning a self contained regulator in the alternator.

Some other systems have a field control unit in the alternator that has no smarts at all and is totally controlled by the ecu and the ecu knows what you have switched on and calculates the amount of charge you need just to cover the needs, way too over engineered for a car in my opinion.

If you can find out what the fourth terminal is labled on the lable of the alternator will help you identify its function, W, P, L something along those lines.

Thanks Marty,
Found some interesting reading that appears to answer the question here:
http://www.rpc.com.au/pdf/REDARC_isolators_incompatible_vehicles.pdf
http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uploads/files/tech_tip_-_new_vehicle_technology_can_affect_dual_battery_systems_charging_performance.pdf
Been keeping an eye on my stock standard 2014 voltage while driving...
Starts around 14V when cold. Got as low as 13.2-13.1V when hot, running AC and full beam headlights.

It is all becoming a pain in the ass, I just went straight for the LV redarc simply because I don't see this hilux being the last I will own and you can bet the next one I get will definatly need it.

I see redarc is getting onboard with the lithium type batteries too which I think is an unavoidable direction that batteries will go down, but personally I think it is way too early in the development stage of them to be using them for camping.

They need a very controlled charging, I think 3, or it might be 4 cells add up to 12ish volts but each individual cell needs a controller to regulate its charge, read an article on it recently on a plane when I was only semi awake.

Same type of battery that caught fire on a couple of Boeing 787,s before they were put into service.

The hilux alternator to date is not computer controlled. All charging parameters are controlled within the regulator in the alternator. The forth wire that goes back to the ecu on later model kun26's is a monitor wire so the ecu knows what duty cycle the alternator is working at.

Thanks for that B. Good to know what the 4th wire does.
Curious why is it that Toyota didnt go with ECU-CVV Alternator like many other 2011+ CRD's?
Practicability or economics...