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martynvella wrote:If you simply run one wire from one side of the parallel pins of the headlight plug on the bulb to one side of the coil on the relay and a wire from the other parallel pin through a switch to the other side of the coil of the relay it will work no matter what the switching is, just don't use a diode protected relay or polarity becomes an issue.

Using 2 wires because you can't find the right one better invest that money in a multimeter and grab the correct wire

xychix wrote:I'm curious to see if taillights are also negative switched.

They are positive switched.

xychix wrote:Using 2 wires because you can't find the right one better invest that money in a multimeter and grab the correct wire

Either way you have to earth the relay. Martyn has just provided an alternative for people who are struggling to get their head around the negative switching concept. Nothing wrong with that

Moiv wrote:
Either way you have to earth the relay. Martyn has just provided an alternative for people who are struggling to get their head around the negative switching concept. Nothing wrong with that

True, wasn't trying to be negative, however understanding some basic 12V stuff might come in handy when messing with wiring in a vehicle

It is good to learn what your are doing so you understand it, I encourage it, if you just put a few wires where you are told and don't know what they do, you will never be able to troubleshoot it in years to come.

In the case of driving light wiring I feel it is just a waste of time to work every system out on every vehicle you work on. When Japanese cars started coming into Australia there were about 6 different systems for headlights introduced so it was time consuming to work every one out individually, some people fit many dozens of sets driving lights a year so how much time would it save to cheat a little.

understanding your vehicle is a concept that I encourage.

Well in case people don't want to do the extra wires. This should work for any car:

1. take a volt meter and set it to DC Voltage
2. turn on the headlights (might have to run the engine for that)
3. measure both wires going to the headlights while they are on. (red leg of meter on wire, black on earth, usually being any bare metal you see)

The one measuring 12V is the one you'll use to steer the relais. The other should say 0V.
Especially people fitting stuff more than once should be able to do this after 500 beers and in the middle of the night. If not so, please don't mess with wiring. I've seen multiple cars go up in flames due to incorrect installed auxiliaries (like webasto heaters etc.)

nevertheless placing the relay (steering legs) parallel to the headlights should work and saves you having to search for your voltmeter.

Bit of an old thread but I'm just about to wire up my light bar. How have you guys tapped off the high beam wire at the headlight? Strip back 10mm and solder? Or an inline connector that crimps into the wire without having to cut it? I'm a sparky but I've never touched auto 12v before. Usually I'd cut and connector the fark out of it.

Also 1 more thing, wheres the best place in the engine bay to mount your relays? Are there any relay holders you can buy that screw or bolt into any factory holes or positions? I hate drilling holes in cars to mount things thats all. Whats a good brand of relay in the auto world? Narva?

Narva is fine, mount them as close to the battery as possible. Strip back and solder the high beam wire at the back of the headlight.

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

Cheers i'll see how I go!

Does anyone have a photo of how they have tapped into the high beam wire?... I'm just a bit nervous about cutting into factory wiring I just want to make sure I get it right the first time.

Spitfia wrote:Does anyone have a photo of how they have tapped into the high beam wire?... I'm just a bit nervous about cutting into factory wiring I just want to make sure I get it right the first time.

2014 SR. LH Headlight. Bottom wire on plug. Red wire with yellow trace. Don't need to cut it - just strip a bit and solder on.

Remember that with negative switching,this wire will be positive UNTIL you switch to high beam. Then it becomes negative.

ok so I have successfully wired up my spotlights using one of those lightforce harnesses and a simple rocker switch and all was working fine until I wanted it to look fancy so I got one of these:



I have it tapped into the dash lights via the pwr heat button, the problem I have at the moment is that when all is plugged in the back light is constantly on... the switch works fine activating the lights as it should but the back lighting on the switch isn't working as it should

If anyone has any experience with this combination of equipment I would be very grateful for your advice

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/op19ykctniugpbo/AADxOHnEYVZkxXa4gHTWANp2a/HILUX%20STYLE%20PUSH%20BUTTON%20SWITCH%20WIRING%20DIAGRAM.pdf?dl=0
Link provided by customrockers

DeadlyBeast wrote:https://www.dropbox.com/sh/op19ykctniugpbo/AADxOHnEYVZkxXa4gHTWANp2a/HILUX%20STYLE%20PUSH%20BUTTON%20SWITCH%20WIRING%20DIAGRAM.pdf?dl=0
Link provided by customrockers

ok so I take it from that diagram ill have to chop out the pre-wired relay box from the lightforce harness and re-wire in the relay to match the negative switching malarkey *sheesh I swear they just changed to negative switching to mess with our heads*

It's not that hard. Positive and Negative on the really stay exactly the same. The difference is that positive is positive all the time, and negative runs from the high beam pin and has a switch in it.

Spitfia wrote:ok so I have successfully wired up my spotlights using one of those lightforce harnesses and a simple rocker switch and all was working fine until I wanted it to look fancy so I got one of these:



I have it tapped into the dash lights via the pwr heat button, the problem I have at the moment is that when all is plugged in the back light is constantly on... the switch works fine activating the lights as it should but the back lighting on the switch isn't working as it should

If anyone has any experience with this combination of equipment I would be very grateful for your advice

yes all my switched did the same. I rewired the boards inside my switches. This includes desoldering parts, cutting open board traces and placing tiny wire bridges.

Now it takes 3 wires

- negative from device to switch
- negative to earth
- 12V+ (either permanent or ok iginition) for powering leds.

I didn't like the permanent backlight. However if you wish you might be able to hook the backlight + line in the line that is connected to the dimmer that also powers the backlight in the dash.... never looked that up though.