NewHilux.net

G'Day Alby

I am thinking I would be better off to buy this from Fleabay - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400347149368

As whitworths is $10.95 / mtr. - is only 2 B&S

opposed to

$6 / mtr - 6 B&S

Have I got this wrong ???

TIA

Newbie, you have got it way wrong! Cables are like wire gauges, the smaller the number, the bigger the cable so your 6 b&s is 4 sizes smaller than 2b&s.

VMN wrote:Newbie, you have got it way wrong! Cables are like wire gauges, the smaller the number, the bigger the cable so your 6 b&s is 4 sizes smaller than 2b&s.

Ng. Here is some info on cable sizing surface area and rated currents for automotive applications.

and the website that I got the info from.
http://www.coffsautoelectrical.com.au/blog/auto_electrical/automotive-cable-sizes/
As Rod said the lower the number in cable sizing the greater the surface area of the conductor.
Cheers
Skog

Just take care with the data Skog has quoted. It looks to me it is based on 50% duty cycle. If it is for continuous load, the numbers probably should be derated. Eg. The. 2b&s I linked to is rated for 188 amps continuous. More info on Tycosvweb site

So under the bonnet of my 2010 d4d Hilux I already have duel batteries with a redarc smart start between them. this system works fine for most things, But I have decided on a third battery soley to run the 80l fridge. This battery will be mounted in the tray next to the fridge, I have a ctek d250s to charge this battery along with a solar panel or 2!

So my Question is, Do I link the ctek from the first or second battery?

Thanks, Mat.

Have a search mate thead already exists
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=14488

Thanks mate, lots of useful info, but nothing definitive, maybe I need to ask an auto sparkie.

I would take it off the first battery so your not putting a constant load on both batteries and charging the second then drawing the charge back out of it. Also the ctek can read properly what alternator is doing without the interferance of redarc. Would be best to continue this in the thread posted above as suggested by 10luxxxx

Not sure if I have a faulty Ctek or a crook alternator.
Had the Hilux parked up under the carport since Friday. Used the LED lights a few times and fridge has been running constantly, came out this arvo to move the car around and noticed that the low voltage alarm on the fridge had tripped and the fridge was starting to go warm. Took the vehicle for a bit of a drive and came back left it idling out the front opened the canopy door, the Ctek was only charging from the solar panel and no alternator feed.. Backed the vehicle down back underneath the carport plugged the AC charger into the 2nd battery under the bonnet, Ctek started pulling 20amps of current from the AC charger pump it into the 3rd battery for about 30 seconds then click off for 30seconds then back on over and over again.
Thought it was a bit strange, plugged the AC charger into the main battery. For the first 20 or so seconds it charged the cranker, then the solenoid clicked over sending charge from the main battery down the line to 2nd battery and to the Ctek which started doing the same thing on and off for 30 second intervals throwing 20amps into the battery. Has anyone noticed this and does the Ctek do it to prevent overheating of the battery. I put the little temp sensor for the Ctek in the fridge for a little while to see if it had an effect but still the same. On and off from the alternator feed.
Cheers
Mark

Think I worked it out. The battery has never been that low before since I installed the Ctek. I think it was going through it's Desulfation Mode. Or Stage 1 in the charging mode according to the book. It's now pulling a steady current.

Looks as though the Ctek was having a grandpa moment. Started dropping in and out again, disconnected the solar panel, unplugged the main Anderson feed in and pulled the charging fuse out and left it for 10 minutes and to drop any charge out of it used a small bulb and some alligator clips to drain out the remaining voltage inside the unit. Similar to resetting the ecu. It was switching between the solar panel feed and alternator feed getting confused with itself as there is partial light at the moment so it may have also tried to optimise the charge with the solar panel.
I have also found charging voltage is directly effected by the temperature sensor, I've popped it in the fridge which is set at minus 1 and the charging voltage is at 14.9 volts. Take the sensor out and put it in your hand for 5 minutes the charging voltage comes down to 13.9 volts.

hey guys, i currently have a dual battery set up with a redarc isolator

im just woundering is it possible just to run an extra battery off the 2nd battery in series?

I really want a 3rd battery and for it to be mounted in the tub. My only other idea was to put an isolator from the 2nd battery to the 3rd. that way as the 2nd battery is charged it will then charge the 3rd

the way i thought was to run B&S wire from the 2nd to the 3rd using 50amp anderson plugs and a circuit breaker from the 2nd battery.

first you should learn the difference between series and parallel. then have a read of a few of the threads on battery compatibility, there are pages of stuff on it and you might actually learn something. Just be careful, some of it might have been written by, and I quote sharp018 "clean idiots"

The main question is can you run 2 batteries off a RedArc Isolator as both batteries are 12 volts. and i was ament to say parraell not series, as i dont want to exceed the 12 volt capacity, so if both are linked would it just mean its slowwer charging?

I want the 3rd battery to run a fridge, and inverter and sometimes a caravan. But the setup im looking for is if the 3rd battery goes flat it should cut out instead of drawing power from 2nd battery. Ive seen a narave relay setup that cuts in at 13.3volts and cuts out at 12.7v which is same as isoclator, but has led light indication as of charge rate.

Which is prefered for me,

although im going to have it being able to remove battery from car, and place outside camping ect. with invertor attached and or lights ect. and my solar pannel an charge controller to regulate it

G'Day Sharpy

If you have the 3rd batt. in the tub are you going to have the SBI12 in the tub with the 3rd batt. or under bonnet with the 2nd batt. ?

I dont think the supplied cables are going to be long enough for either !!!

sa_lux wrote:G'Day Sharpy

If you have the 3rd batt. in the tub are you going to have the SBI12 in the tub with the 3rd batt. or under bonnet with the 2nd batt. ?

I dont think the supplied cables are going to be long enough for either !!!

Hey mate just seen what fridge your looking to buy funny thing is im looking to buy same one only the 55ltr version there currently out of stock though


Anyway i have the SBI12 from starter to secondary. So i went ahead a got a Projecta Isolator for the 2nd to 3rd. My battery is in a case that has carvan outlet and cig outlet. So i brought a voltmeter gauge that ill fix tonthe top of the case it has an on and off switch which is ideal haha and i brought a circuit breaker also for the battery to anderson plug

This is what i brought to go on the 2nd battery http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 16&alt=web

Need some advice. I'm putting a 3rd battery in my lift off canopy. I currently have one under the bonnet charging my second battery and wont to put another cteck in my canopy to charge the 3rd so I don't have to have such heavy cable running from the engine bay to the third battery in the canopy. So my question is can I run a second cteck 250 off my main battery or do i run it off my secondary battery?? Any advice would be great cheers.

straight from your main.

martynvella wrote:straight from your main.

Cheers mate.