Is it worth running a 24v system?

[packeteer]

Guys,

I haven't started building my aux electrical setup as yet, but I'm wondering if it is worth building as a 24v setup??

All the devices that I'd run off the system will support 24v, so it kinda makes sense

What are your thoughts?

[helmut79]

Mate, if it suits your needs why not.

You could also run a 24v winch

[olcoolone]

How are you going to charge it with out going to a series parallel setup.

More 12v gear is available and is cheaper then 24v and if you run 12v gear it has to be through a 24 to 12 volt converter......

Stick to the KISS Principle (keep it simple sir ), no use trying to re invent the wheel.

[packeteer]

charging:
http://redarc.com.au/products-and-servi ... 4v-charger

fridge and winch would be the primary devices running off the 24v setup

[Skog07]

Arent fridges dual voltage. Just had a look at my waeco and it reads 12-24V Dc input.. and 100- 240AC input.. Is you winch 24V??
Cheers Mark

[Qwerty]

What benefit is there?

[noodle]

The plus would be less current draw through the electrical system. But it would only be real useful if everything was 24v.
I do believe thee was talk around about having car with 36v systems to try and reduce the amount of current draw due to all the computer systems.
I'm sure there are others who would have more info on where that idea went

[olcoolone]

charging:
http://redarc.com.au/products-and-servi ... 4v-charger

fridge and winch would be the primary devices running off the 24v setup

Sure there is ways to charge a 24v battery bank from 12v, if your using a system like the RedArc you have to have two batterys mounted next to each other.

The plus would be less current draw through the electrical system. But it would only be real useful if everything was 24v.
I do believe thee was talk around about having car with 36v systems to try and reduce the amount of current draw due to all the computer systems.
I'm sure there are others who would have more info on where that idea went

The current draw would be more over all, the current draw on 24v would be half that of a 12 volt system but seeing you have to find a way to charge it; the charger used may only be 90% efficient meaning you will use more power than if it was on 12v.

There is no such thing as free energy.

To get 24v you need to run 2 X12v batterys in series but the down side is you have to halve you capacity..... if you had 2 X 12v 100 amphour batterys in parallel you will have in theory 200 amphours and if they were wired in series for 24v you would 100 amphours capacity.



All your doing is complicating something that doesn't need it with no advantage.

As for the 48v systems that they were going to go to but has been put on the back burner..... there was a lot of reasons for going to it, the main ability was load sharing at high demand times...... the cars of the future will have electric steering, electric brakes, electric heating and instant start engine technology.

[packeteer]

ok, so not really worth it

thanks guys

[StevenS]

a 24V system with 2 batteries will flatten the batteries in roughly the same time as a 12v with 2 batteries - as in 24v the batteries are in series where in 12v you can run them in parallel.

There are some efficiency gains in 24v etc but if you need to run a combination of 12/24 then the gains are quickly offset and usually even reduced completely.

Stick to 12v - if that's what the vehicle is designed around it's normally the best way to go by far

[sa_lux]

I know this post is way old, just like me

But this comment below

You could also run a 24v winch

Got me thinking and we have now been selling 24v portable battery packs for 5+ years, that are charged via solar and 4x4.

Now that they are time tested I'm looking for a 24v winch which I will test run via our bat. packs.

Obviously we never have our Bat. packs under the bonnet and like Tesla we fuse them, not make a bomb and have bus bars.

Anyone got a recommendation for a 24v winch ?

BTW - We have found that 24v are much better than 12v bat. packs & basically this is primarily due to ohms law, 0.5 amps draw.

TIA

NG

[dave g]

More hassles then it is worth.

[sa_lux]

G'Day Dave

I got sick of AGM bats. dying and being told "No Warranty" you had it under the bonnet.

We have been running fridges, lights, power tools etc. off of 24v bat. packs for 5+ years and as the 12v sys. in the rolux is completely separate cant drain the 12v bats.

Plus we have very short cables as the packs go with the appliance, so they become very portable and convenient.

I guarantee it is well worth the effort, complete paradigm shift.

Anyone got a rec. for a 24v winch ???

TIA

NG

[Chancha_Blanca]

I wouldn't bother with a 24v system unless for an emergency weld...
Its the AMP that helps the winch, not the voltage,
so a 12v parallel set up is more AMP
(A set up in series is same amp but 24 volts.)

[Rob_Wood]

I wouldn't bother with a 24v system unless for an emergency weld...
Its the AMP that helps the winch, not the voltage,
so a 12v parallel set up is more AMP
(A set up in series is same amp but 24 volts.)

This is not correct I'm afraid. Ohms Law is: Volts = Amps X Ohms which transposes to Amps = Volts / Ohms. For the same load (let's say 1 Ohm) then you'll use 12 Amps on a 12 Volt system or 24 Amps on a 24 Volt system.
This will of course change the numbers depending on what load you're running, capacitive and inductive loads will also have a bearing on your calculations, but let's keep it simple for now.

[HK1837]

That is not really correct either. For a given wattage load if you double the voltage you halve the current. Power=VxI (or I squared x R)

If you are using Ohms Law V=RI and you double the voltage for the same resistance R, sure you double the current. But you also greatly increase the power, 144W at 12V or 576W at 24V. However devices designed to operate on a higher voltage typically also present a different resistance as the required power remains the same. Look at any devices you have that run on say 100-240VAC. It will draw twice the current at 115VAC than it does at 230VAC.

[Rob_Wood]

That is not really correct either. For a given wattage load if you double the voltage you halve the current. Power=VxI (or I squared x R)

If you are using Ohms Law V=RI and you double the voltage for the same resistance R, sure you double the current. But you also greatly increase the power, 144W at 12V or 576W at 24V. However devices designed to operate on a higher voltage typically also present a different resistance as the required power remains the same. Look at any devices you have that run on say 100-240VAC. It will draw twice the current at 115VAC than it does at 230VAC.

Yep, you're right, that's why I said it'd change the numbers dependent on a capacitive or inductive load etc. And as much as I suggested "we keep it simple", electricity, the loads it runs and the equations are not as simple as one might think at first glance. My example was for a purely resistive load (like maybe an incandescent light globe). Running a fridge or other types of loads is gonna require much more research.